February 2008 Archives
I'm not terribly familiar with wines from the Orange region in NSW, but there's no time like the present to become acquainted with new friends. I picked up this bottle on the way home as accompaniment for chicken salad.
The aroma of this wine reminds me in a strange way of moderately aged Hunter Semillon. It's an intense yet subtle nose that wafts out of the glass slowly. A mix of white stone fruit (more stone than fruit) and some astringent greenness, a bit like honeydew without the sugar. There's also a pleasingly offbeat nuttiness that reminds me of roasted pine nuts. Entry is quite powerful, with intense and slightly clingy fruit flavour coating the tongue from the tip onwards. Although it's a lively, acidic wine, the emphasis is on forward cool-climate Chardonnay fruit and some nutty oak. Flavour is generous, yet it's a focused wine that retains its shape through the palate. The after palate emphasises nutty, caramel oak as it moves to a decent finish.
This won't be to everyone's taste, especially not those who favour a more worked, broad Chardonnay style. But for me, it's a characterful wine that goes well with food or on its own. Good value. I should also mention the label, which is stylishly individual and always stands out in the retail lineup.
Cumulus Wines
Price: $A18
Closure: Stelvin
Date tasted: February 2008
The aroma of this wine reminds me in a strange way of moderately aged Hunter Semillon. It's an intense yet subtle nose that wafts out of the glass slowly. A mix of white stone fruit (more stone than fruit) and some astringent greenness, a bit like honeydew without the sugar. There's also a pleasingly offbeat nuttiness that reminds me of roasted pine nuts. Entry is quite powerful, with intense and slightly clingy fruit flavour coating the tongue from the tip onwards. Although it's a lively, acidic wine, the emphasis is on forward cool-climate Chardonnay fruit and some nutty oak. Flavour is generous, yet it's a focused wine that retains its shape through the palate. The after palate emphasises nutty, caramel oak as it moves to a decent finish.
This won't be to everyone's taste, especially not those who favour a more worked, broad Chardonnay style. But for me, it's a characterful wine that goes well with food or on its own. Good value. I should also mention the label, which is stylishly individual and always stands out in the retail lineup.
Cumulus Wines
Price: $A18
Closure: Stelvin
Date tasted: February 2008
A village-level wine from Rully in the Côte Chalonnaise. This is another "value" Burgundy from a lesser appellation and, at $A25 a bottle, this wine sits within an increasingly crowded price bracket of local Pinot Noirs.
A pretty, bright ruby colour, sparkling and clear. Initially, the nose smelled of spicy, toasty oak and not much else. With time, it settled into a more balanced expression of lifted red fruits, oak and some savouriness. Not terribly complex, and slightly New Worldy to my taste. The palate is marked by a notable astringence that comes across as a sourness of flavour profile. Entry is quite lively, with bright flavours and fresh acidity. Mid-palate is medium bodied and brings the wine's sourness into full focus, although there are subtle tannins and enough intensity of fruit flavour to prevent the wine from being totally one-dimensional. There's a slightly animal note in there, but overall no great complexity. A nice lift of flavour through the after palate lightens the flavour profile to a sappier, freshly fruited note, before a decent finish sees the wine off in some style.
This isn't a world-beater by any means, and there are probably (conventionally) better local Pinots for the price. But it's well made and just different enough to keep things interesting. Again, how to put a price on difference?
Domaine Ninot
Price: $A25
Closure: Cork
Date tasted: February 2008
A pretty, bright ruby colour, sparkling and clear. Initially, the nose smelled of spicy, toasty oak and not much else. With time, it settled into a more balanced expression of lifted red fruits, oak and some savouriness. Not terribly complex, and slightly New Worldy to my taste. The palate is marked by a notable astringence that comes across as a sourness of flavour profile. Entry is quite lively, with bright flavours and fresh acidity. Mid-palate is medium bodied and brings the wine's sourness into full focus, although there are subtle tannins and enough intensity of fruit flavour to prevent the wine from being totally one-dimensional. There's a slightly animal note in there, but overall no great complexity. A nice lift of flavour through the after palate lightens the flavour profile to a sappier, freshly fruited note, before a decent finish sees the wine off in some style.
This isn't a world-beater by any means, and there are probably (conventionally) better local Pinots for the price. But it's well made and just different enough to keep things interesting. Again, how to put a price on difference?
Domaine Ninot
Price: $A25
Closure: Cork
Date tasted: February 2008
Onwards with the Burgundy 2005 tastings, and here we have a 1er Cru wine from Chambolle-Musigny.
A pretty ruby colour, slight haze. This wine's aromas has proven elusive and changeable through my tasting experience. At first yeasty with strawberries and cream, then morphing to a raspberry liqueur sort of expression, finally (the morning after) ending up firmly in savoury territory, with mineral and sous-bois notes running underneath vanilla spice and delicate fruit. Although it is an expressive nose, it is complex and subtle and almost evasive.
The palate has gone through an equally interesting evolution. Entry is striking, with acidity and sappy red fruits registering quickly on the palate. At first, the mid-palate was mouthfilling, light to medium bodied, with intense flavours and bright freshness. Over time, the wine has gained complexity and lost some of its hedonistic edge. Its flavour profile is quite savoury and intense, but delicate too. I love the acid structure of this wine, which provides a clearly delineated flow for each flavour component and which I can almost "visualise." Good line through the after palate, with a finely drying finish of decent length.
Although there's a lot in this wine, it feels unresolved to me, as if it needs some time to make up its mind what it wants to be. I'll allow my remaining bottles that luxury.
Domaine Anne et Hervé Sigaut
Price: $A65
Closure: Cork
Date tasted: February 2008
A pretty ruby colour, slight haze. This wine's aromas has proven elusive and changeable through my tasting experience. At first yeasty with strawberries and cream, then morphing to a raspberry liqueur sort of expression, finally (the morning after) ending up firmly in savoury territory, with mineral and sous-bois notes running underneath vanilla spice and delicate fruit. Although it is an expressive nose, it is complex and subtle and almost evasive.
The palate has gone through an equally interesting evolution. Entry is striking, with acidity and sappy red fruits registering quickly on the palate. At first, the mid-palate was mouthfilling, light to medium bodied, with intense flavours and bright freshness. Over time, the wine has gained complexity and lost some of its hedonistic edge. Its flavour profile is quite savoury and intense, but delicate too. I love the acid structure of this wine, which provides a clearly delineated flow for each flavour component and which I can almost "visualise." Good line through the after palate, with a finely drying finish of decent length.
Although there's a lot in this wine, it feels unresolved to me, as if it needs some time to make up its mind what it wants to be. I'll allow my remaining bottles that luxury.
Domaine Anne et Hervé Sigaut
Price: $A65
Closure: Cork
Date tasted: February 2008
What with all the Burgundies lately, I thought it might be amusingly ironic to taste what used to be known as Hunter Burgundy -- made from Shiraz grapes, of course. Philip is usually a reliable choice in that it generally displays good typicité within the context of the vintage -- no mean feat at this price point. 2005 being a good vintage in the Hunter for red wines, I was keen to try this one.
And, I must admit, I was rather disappointed at first. Although Hunter character was present, the wine was swamped with a spirity, fortified edge that more or less obliterated any nuance of fruit character, and created an overblown, filling-yet-hollow mouthfeel of little textural interest. I had almost decided not to write it up, but left half the bottle to retaste the following day, just to be sure.
It's remarkably better after a good night's airing. Although it hasn't magically transformed into a different wine, it has a sense of balance that was not present on opening. Good Hunter savouriness alongside sweet yet subtle red fruits on the nose. There's a bit of oak in there too; sweet but not overwhelming. The palate shows the most marked improvement, with a noticeable diminution in portiness, which has the effect of bringing the fruit into focus, and allowing the wine's delicious, savoury tannins their proper place. It's Hunter, but on a large scale: medium verging on full bodied, the alcohol still noticeable (though not all-consuming), denser flavours than one might expect.
In the end, a good wine and excellent value. Despite the wine's dimensions, it retains the elegance and softness of good Hunter Shiraz, so should please fans of the style.
McWilliams Mount Pleasant
Price: $A13
Closure: Stelvin
Date tasted: February 208
And, I must admit, I was rather disappointed at first. Although Hunter character was present, the wine was swamped with a spirity, fortified edge that more or less obliterated any nuance of fruit character, and created an overblown, filling-yet-hollow mouthfeel of little textural interest. I had almost decided not to write it up, but left half the bottle to retaste the following day, just to be sure.
It's remarkably better after a good night's airing. Although it hasn't magically transformed into a different wine, it has a sense of balance that was not present on opening. Good Hunter savouriness alongside sweet yet subtle red fruits on the nose. There's a bit of oak in there too; sweet but not overwhelming. The palate shows the most marked improvement, with a noticeable diminution in portiness, which has the effect of bringing the fruit into focus, and allowing the wine's delicious, savoury tannins their proper place. It's Hunter, but on a large scale: medium verging on full bodied, the alcohol still noticeable (though not all-consuming), denser flavours than one might expect.
In the end, a good wine and excellent value. Despite the wine's dimensions, it retains the elegance and softness of good Hunter Shiraz, so should please fans of the style.
McWilliams Mount Pleasant
Price: $A13
Closure: Stelvin
Date tasted: February 208
I began by peeling wax off in tiny flakes, trying to get to the cork, before I remembered that I probably should've just attacked with the corkscrew, which worked a treat. The bottle signed a quick whiff of nail polish remover, which dissipated quickly; the cork seemed in relatively good shape for an oldish bottle like this, still intact (albeit well stained).
The color of the wine is definitely old: decrepit, even, a mouldering shade of dark rust brown, not particularly appealing (but then again I'm American, right, so I'm never supposed to drink wine that's any older than a year or two, right?).
The nose is, well, old. Really old. It smells like smoked meat (think Montréal) with a side order of truffles and old shoe leather. Overall, it kind of seems like a one-note wonder at this point, and I'm wondering if I was a fool to buy this (more on why later on).
In the mouth, it's surprisingly full-bodied for such an old wine, but the taste is not particularly attractive, tasting of not much more than "old wine" with no complexity. The finish is a bit better, though, with fairly fresh red fruits, a bit of sourness, and a fairly long finish of tobacco leaves with a sweetish edge to it.
To be absolutely honest, I'm not sure how to feel about this wine. Is this normal? Is this the kind of thing the English drink and enjoy? I think I'm going to set this aside for a few hours and come back to it later on to see if it's become something that I innately enjoy; as it is now, it seems more an intellectual exercise than something I'm going to drink with my supper.
Gnadenfrei Estate
Price: US $19.95
Closure: Cork
Date tasted: February 2008
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I first heard of Gnadenfrei back in 2001, when the local bottle shop (K&L Wines) carried this exact wine. At the time, I was working for Netscape Communications Corp., and I had a coworker by the name of Waldemar, so I always thought it'd be a hoot to give him a bottle of this. I didn't - I wasn't even sure if he drank wine - but I did have the pleasure of visiting Gnadenfrei in October 2002. The experience was entirely unlike any other Barossa winery I visited: Malcolm Seppelt himself poured the wine, rambled on about importing to Pennsylvania, and his wife was upstairs with more tourists. It was decidedly odd, standing there in that dingy basement drinking wines I didn't know much about at the time.
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Even coming back to this wine thirty minutes later, it's very much improved, and I think I'm almost enjoying it now. If anything, it's a welcome antidote to the drink-me-now 16% Barossa reds we get in these parts; there's a definite oddness to this bottle that makes it stand out.
The color of the wine is definitely old: decrepit, even, a mouldering shade of dark rust brown, not particularly appealing (but then again I'm American, right, so I'm never supposed to drink wine that's any older than a year or two, right?).
The nose is, well, old. Really old. It smells like smoked meat (think Montréal) with a side order of truffles and old shoe leather. Overall, it kind of seems like a one-note wonder at this point, and I'm wondering if I was a fool to buy this (more on why later on).
In the mouth, it's surprisingly full-bodied for such an old wine, but the taste is not particularly attractive, tasting of not much more than "old wine" with no complexity. The finish is a bit better, though, with fairly fresh red fruits, a bit of sourness, and a fairly long finish of tobacco leaves with a sweetish edge to it.
To be absolutely honest, I'm not sure how to feel about this wine. Is this normal? Is this the kind of thing the English drink and enjoy? I think I'm going to set this aside for a few hours and come back to it later on to see if it's become something that I innately enjoy; as it is now, it seems more an intellectual exercise than something I'm going to drink with my supper.
Gnadenfrei Estate
Price: US $19.95
Closure: Cork
Date tasted: February 2008
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I first heard of Gnadenfrei back in 2001, when the local bottle shop (K&L Wines) carried this exact wine. At the time, I was working for Netscape Communications Corp., and I had a coworker by the name of Waldemar, so I always thought it'd be a hoot to give him a bottle of this. I didn't - I wasn't even sure if he drank wine - but I did have the pleasure of visiting Gnadenfrei in October 2002. The experience was entirely unlike any other Barossa winery I visited: Malcolm Seppelt himself poured the wine, rambled on about importing to Pennsylvania, and his wife was upstairs with more tourists. It was decidedly odd, standing there in that dingy basement drinking wines I didn't know much about at the time.
---
Even coming back to this wine thirty minutes later, it's very much improved, and I think I'm almost enjoying it now. If anything, it's a welcome antidote to the drink-me-now 16% Barossa reds we get in these parts; there's a definite oddness to this bottle that makes it stand out.
Having tasted a couple of other current vintage Private Bin whites in previous weeks, I was interested to see how the flagship Vat 1 fared in 2007. The Belford and Stevens wines seemed broader and more approachable than usual.
Very pale with excellent clarity. The nose is an interesting mixture of high toned, almost powdery citrus fruit with waxed pears and more generous tropical notes. Good complexity. It's quite expressive and certainly attractive; whether it's especially "typical" is another question. The entry is gentle and builds, both structurally and in terms of intensity, towards the mid-palate. Here we have a forward mix of lemon/lime notes with hints of the tropical fruit shown on the nose. Acidity is certainly lively and it provides really good flow through the palate, but stops short of the sort of searingly intense structure seen in Hunter Semillons of a more classical bent. Flavour extends well into the after palate, and the wine's length is extremely impressive.
Rather than criticise this wine for what it isn't, I'll celebrate its pleasures: here we have an approachable, sophisticated young wine of good structure and length. As it sat in the glass, I could detect hints of the honeyed pleasure to come, but I'd say this is a medium term cellaring proposition at most -- nothing should stop you enjoying this wine now.
Tyrrell's
Price: $A35
Closure: Stelvin
Date tasted: February 2008
Very pale with excellent clarity. The nose is an interesting mixture of high toned, almost powdery citrus fruit with waxed pears and more generous tropical notes. Good complexity. It's quite expressive and certainly attractive; whether it's especially "typical" is another question. The entry is gentle and builds, both structurally and in terms of intensity, towards the mid-palate. Here we have a forward mix of lemon/lime notes with hints of the tropical fruit shown on the nose. Acidity is certainly lively and it provides really good flow through the palate, but stops short of the sort of searingly intense structure seen in Hunter Semillons of a more classical bent. Flavour extends well into the after palate, and the wine's length is extremely impressive.
Rather than criticise this wine for what it isn't, I'll celebrate its pleasures: here we have an approachable, sophisticated young wine of good structure and length. As it sat in the glass, I could detect hints of the honeyed pleasure to come, but I'd say this is a medium term cellaring proposition at most -- nothing should stop you enjoying this wine now.
Tyrrell's
Price: $A35
Closure: Stelvin
Date tasted: February 2008
I seem to end up drinking more Hunter Verdelho than I intend to, partly because they are often keenly priced and, well, there. This one is no exception, and has the added advantage of originating from a biodynamic vineyard.
Straightforward, juicy fruit salad aromas with the faintest hint of herbal astringency on the nose. There's no significant complexity but there's sufficient volume, which is the point with a wine like this. The entry is immediately flavoursome, with more Verdelho fruit salad riding a slightly slippery, glycerol influenced mouthfeel through to a generous, flavoursome middle palate. Acidity is gentle but present enough to add some firmness to the wine's otherwise easygoing palate. Unlike many Verdelhos, this wine shows well controlled phenolic bitterness -- enough to cleanse the palate without disrupting the sweeter fruit notes. A nice lift of slightly medicinal flavour characterises the finish, and the wine has decent length, tapering slowly to a close.
This is the nicest Verdelho I've had in a while. Its combination of mouthfilling flavour and perfectly balanced bitterness is delicious and fun. Drinks well and is great value.
Krinklewood
Price: $A16
Closure: Stelvin
Date tasted: February 2008
Straightforward, juicy fruit salad aromas with the faintest hint of herbal astringency on the nose. There's no significant complexity but there's sufficient volume, which is the point with a wine like this. The entry is immediately flavoursome, with more Verdelho fruit salad riding a slightly slippery, glycerol influenced mouthfeel through to a generous, flavoursome middle palate. Acidity is gentle but present enough to add some firmness to the wine's otherwise easygoing palate. Unlike many Verdelhos, this wine shows well controlled phenolic bitterness -- enough to cleanse the palate without disrupting the sweeter fruit notes. A nice lift of slightly medicinal flavour characterises the finish, and the wine has decent length, tapering slowly to a close.
This is the nicest Verdelho I've had in a while. Its combination of mouthfilling flavour and perfectly balanced bitterness is delicious and fun. Drinks well and is great value.
Krinklewood
Price: $A16
Closure: Stelvin
Date tasted: February 2008
A village-level wine whose name apparently has something to do with the oyster shells found in and around its source vineyards.
Piercing, complex and focused aroma profile comprising elements of cherry/plum, red fruits and a lovely stalky/sappiness. It's just delightful to smell this wine and, although it has remained relatively static over the last couple of hours, its inherent complexity carries it well, and I'm continuing to enjoy each sniff very much. There's some underlying oak that plays a well judged supporting role.
Straight from the bottle, this wine tasted a little thin and bright on the palate, but it did not take long (thirty minutes at most) for the fruit to fill in. Entry is rich and flavoursome, introducing not only ripe fruit but the two key pleasures of this wine: structure and texture. No doubt there are gorgeous, ripe fruits and what appears to be whole bunch complexity here, but with each sip I keep coming back to the clearly defined acid framework and the powdery phenolics (including fine, ripe tannins) that create significant textural interest on the tongue. For all the fruit ripeness, it's only a medium bodied wine, yet full of intensity and flavour. The after palate shows good line, but there's a sudden drop as the finish kicks in, somewhat mitigated by the fact that this slightly subdued finish possesses more than satisfactory length.
This is my kind of wine, and is drinking better now than some of the other 2005 Burgundies I've tasted recently. Elegant and alluring. I'd like to see it with a couple of years on it, though, primarily to experience the wine's texture as it softens.
Domaine Trapet Père et Fils
Price: $A66
Closure: Cork
Date tasted: February 2008
Piercing, complex and focused aroma profile comprising elements of cherry/plum, red fruits and a lovely stalky/sappiness. It's just delightful to smell this wine and, although it has remained relatively static over the last couple of hours, its inherent complexity carries it well, and I'm continuing to enjoy each sniff very much. There's some underlying oak that plays a well judged supporting role.
Straight from the bottle, this wine tasted a little thin and bright on the palate, but it did not take long (thirty minutes at most) for the fruit to fill in. Entry is rich and flavoursome, introducing not only ripe fruit but the two key pleasures of this wine: structure and texture. No doubt there are gorgeous, ripe fruits and what appears to be whole bunch complexity here, but with each sip I keep coming back to the clearly defined acid framework and the powdery phenolics (including fine, ripe tannins) that create significant textural interest on the tongue. For all the fruit ripeness, it's only a medium bodied wine, yet full of intensity and flavour. The after palate shows good line, but there's a sudden drop as the finish kicks in, somewhat mitigated by the fact that this slightly subdued finish possesses more than satisfactory length.
This is my kind of wine, and is drinking better now than some of the other 2005 Burgundies I've tasted recently. Elegant and alluring. I'd like to see it with a couple of years on it, though, primarily to experience the wine's texture as it softens.
Domaine Trapet Père et Fils
Price: $A66
Closure: Cork
Date tasted: February 2008
I don't remember trying a Chardonnay when I was last at cellar door, but the empty bottle in the recycling bin proves there is indeed one in the Skillogalee range. According to the winery's web site, there were 400 cases made from 1ha of mature (25 year old) vines.
The nose is a throwback to the (some might say bad) old days of quite generously oaked Chardonnay, expressing as it does a whack of spicy, slightly varnishy oak ahead of more subtle Chardonnay fruit. I sat with the wine all evening and the oak continued to show prominently and ahead of any fruit-derived aroma. The palate is a continuation of this theme, with spicy, smoky and broad oak dominating reticent Chardonnay fruit of the yellow peach variety. I'm not opposed to a more worked style of Chardonnay that uses oak as a key flavour component, but a certain intensity of fruit needs to be present to provide balance, and I didn't feel it was quite there in this wine. There's some buttery richness that is, I presume, derived from malo, and acid is pretty soft. Finish is unremarkable.
I wasn't super impressed with this wine, as I kept wishing the fruit would step up more assertively to the oak treatment. As it is, a wine for lovers of spicy oak rather than Chardonnay fruit.
Skillogalee
Cost: $A20
Closure: Stelvin
Date tasted: February 2008
The nose is a throwback to the (some might say bad) old days of quite generously oaked Chardonnay, expressing as it does a whack of spicy, slightly varnishy oak ahead of more subtle Chardonnay fruit. I sat with the wine all evening and the oak continued to show prominently and ahead of any fruit-derived aroma. The palate is a continuation of this theme, with spicy, smoky and broad oak dominating reticent Chardonnay fruit of the yellow peach variety. I'm not opposed to a more worked style of Chardonnay that uses oak as a key flavour component, but a certain intensity of fruit needs to be present to provide balance, and I didn't feel it was quite there in this wine. There's some buttery richness that is, I presume, derived from malo, and acid is pretty soft. Finish is unremarkable.
I wasn't super impressed with this wine, as I kept wishing the fruit would step up more assertively to the oak treatment. As it is, a wine for lovers of spicy oak rather than Chardonnay fruit.
Skillogalee
Cost: $A20
Closure: Stelvin
Date tasted: February 2008
Onwards with the Burgundy tastings. Here we have a village level wine from Vosne-Romanée.
On pouring, I thought this wine was faulty, so funky were some of the smells emerging from glass. But it wasn't -- it's just on the wilder side of Pinot, and perhaps all the better for it. Complex aromas of pepper, stalk, sous-bois and bright red strawberry fruit intermingle on the nose, but these descriptors may give false impression of my certainty -- it's a subtle, changeable nose that has evolved a fair bit through the evening. Quite expressive and beautifully perfumed.
When I first sipped the wine, I found the acid overwhelmingly assertive. This subsided after an hour or so to reveal a still-bright but more balanced palate. Entry is lively and immediate, with acidity registering, followed quickly by sweet, plummy red fruit. Complexity builds towards the middle palate, where notes of pepper and spice become quite prominent. There are also smoky, meaty edges to the flavour profile, as well as a bit of vanilla oak. I wouldn't call this a "clean" wine, but it's funky and interesting in the most positive way. Body is medium, as is intensity. The wine continues well through the after palate, with a slightly confected note emerging towards the back of the mouth, lingering on through a finish of good length.
I must say, I do like this wine a lot. It has changed a fair amount through the evening, gaining weight and body whilst not losing its fundamentally bright profile. I enjoy the slightly wild flavours too -- squeaky clean fruit bombs can get boring after a while. There's definitely a few years in this wine yet, but if you must drink now, do decant for a couple of hours, or at least sip slowly.
Jacques Cacheux & Fils
Price: $A55
Closure: Cork
Date tasted: February 2008
On pouring, I thought this wine was faulty, so funky were some of the smells emerging from glass. But it wasn't -- it's just on the wilder side of Pinot, and perhaps all the better for it. Complex aromas of pepper, stalk, sous-bois and bright red strawberry fruit intermingle on the nose, but these descriptors may give false impression of my certainty -- it's a subtle, changeable nose that has evolved a fair bit through the evening. Quite expressive and beautifully perfumed.
When I first sipped the wine, I found the acid overwhelmingly assertive. This subsided after an hour or so to reveal a still-bright but more balanced palate. Entry is lively and immediate, with acidity registering, followed quickly by sweet, plummy red fruit. Complexity builds towards the middle palate, where notes of pepper and spice become quite prominent. There are also smoky, meaty edges to the flavour profile, as well as a bit of vanilla oak. I wouldn't call this a "clean" wine, but it's funky and interesting in the most positive way. Body is medium, as is intensity. The wine continues well through the after palate, with a slightly confected note emerging towards the back of the mouth, lingering on through a finish of good length.
I must say, I do like this wine a lot. It has changed a fair amount through the evening, gaining weight and body whilst not losing its fundamentally bright profile. I enjoy the slightly wild flavours too -- squeaky clean fruit bombs can get boring after a while. There's definitely a few years in this wine yet, but if you must drink now, do decant for a couple of hours, or at least sip slowly.
Jacques Cacheux & Fils
Price: $A55
Closure: Cork
Date tasted: February 2008
I remember when I first tasted this wine, in the late 90s. I came a bit late to Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, you see, but the Giesen gave me an inexpensive taste of what it was about. It continues to be my favourite "reliable" example of the genre, and as 2007 has been talked up in the Marlborough, I was interested to taste this wine over the weekend.
As is typical with this wine, somewhat explosive aromas of cut grass, passionfruit and other astringent fruits leap from the glass. This is a wine that bursts into the room with all guns blazing. It's piercing and characterful and gloriously vulgar. It's also, within the context of the style, balanced and attractive.
The entry shows tingly acid and a sourness that carries through to the mid-palate. Within this light bodied wine, there are intense flavours that mirror the nose, along with a somewhat scouring mouthfeel. There's a deceleration towards the after palate, and the finish is an echo rather than a substantial continuation of the wine's flavour, but by that time, you're ready for another sip anyway.
No great complexity of flavour, then, but it's a hugely enjoyable wine that exists at the more outré end of the stylistic spectrum for "budget" Sauvignon Blancs. Personally, I don't see the point to the softer, more rounded wines that are crafted for maximum acceptability but, to me, represent a denial of terroir and style.
Giesen
Price: $A15
Closure: Stelvin
Date tasted: February 2008
This wine, impossibly pale - approaching a sort of white tea, white grape juice clarity - smells of good quality rose petal tea from China: smooth, floral, beautiful, perhaps not terribly complex, but then again Gewürztraminer seldom is, at least on the nose.There's also a sort of clove oil spiciness, but only just.
In the mouth, this wine is a big surprise. It's full, fleshy, but not fat; oily, but pleasantly so, and all in all strangely austere, restrained. It's got a marzipan fruitiness combined with a dry finish, good length, and a miraculous ability to keep you going back for another taste. If anything, it reminds me of French orange blossom honey combined with Dresdner stollen: all gentle spices, orange peel, hay, and quiet. Delicious.
When summertime rolls around in another few months, I'm looking forward to reading on the back patio with a glass or two of this; it's delightful, elegant, and just the sort of thing to have with a burrito al pastor.
Kathy Lynskey Wines
Price: US $13.99
Closure: Diam
Date tasted: February 2008
In the mouth, this wine is a big surprise. It's full, fleshy, but not fat; oily, but pleasantly so, and all in all strangely austere, restrained. It's got a marzipan fruitiness combined with a dry finish, good length, and a miraculous ability to keep you going back for another taste. If anything, it reminds me of French orange blossom honey combined with Dresdner stollen: all gentle spices, orange peel, hay, and quiet. Delicious.
When summertime rolls around in another few months, I'm looking forward to reading on the back patio with a glass or two of this; it's delightful, elegant, and just the sort of thing to have with a burrito al pastor.
Kathy Lynskey Wines
Price: US $13.99
Closure: Diam
Date tasted: February 2008
I don't know anything about One Tree Hill. I don't think the bottle I consumed has anything to do with Scaffidi Wines, which uses "One Tree Hill" as a label on some of its products. The back label identifies it as a Hunter Valley wine made "under the supervision of Len Evans." It happened to be on sale for $5 at the local First Choice. I'd be interested to know more about its origins.
A dense purple-red colour, still youthful. The nose initially showed dominant raisin-like notes and assertive vanilla oak. Then some complexities: prunes, fresher red fruit, some black pepper and clovey spice. If you can get over the dried fruit notes (which, I admit, aren't always to my taste), there's some good intensity here. It is not, however, a lightfooted aroma profile.
The entry shows a slippery-slidey mouthfeel that lands on the mid-palate with more vanilla oak, raspberries, dried fruits. Quite intense, yet clumsy and oak heavy too. Low in acid and tannin, this wine's structure steps back to place full bodied fruit at centre stage. The after palate is spicy but tapers quickly to a short-ish finish.
I'm not going to complain too much over a $5 wine, especially one that is full of flavour. The flavours, though, seem stressed, perhaps a result of the very dry 2003 vintage in the Hunter. Those raisin/prune notes, as well as the assertive oak, don't mesh well with my sense of Hunter Shiraz or, more broadly, of what I enjoy drinking. On the other hand, this is very clearly not an industrial product, showing character (including what one might classify as faults or markers of a difficult vintage) and generosity. Perhaps one should be grateful for that fact alone.
One Tree Hill
Price: $A5
Closure: Cork
Date tasted: February 2008
Givry, located in the Côte Chalonnaise, is often regarded as a "value" appellation and lacks the lustre of villages located within the Côte d'Or. Given the words "value" and "Burgundy" are rarely seen together, I'm willing to give this wine the most generous of chances.
Expressive, pretty nose of florals, deep red and black fruits, a very slight sappy edge and some exotic incense-like character. There's a lack of definition to the fruit that detracts ever so slightly, but one receives adequate compensation through the amount and attractiveness of the flavours that are there. The entry is deceptively slippery, as it takes a few moments for the wine's acidity to register. Once it does, though, relatively intense fruit flavours sizzle within the wine's medium bodied palate. There are quite masculine berry flavours mixed in with vanilla and spice oak, plus a hint of earth/mineral. Most of the wine's fruit weight is currently sitting towards the front of the palate, as the acid tends to take over as the wine progresses towards the after palate. The fruit hangs on, though, and re-emerges on the finish as a lingering, prickly sweetness that persists through a wash of acid and tannin. I think some time for the acid to subside will see the fruit fatten up and sit more evenly through the wine's line. Even as it sits in the glass, the fruit is thickening and gaining weight and complexity. For all that, it's drinking pretty well now.
This is a very tasty wine that shows clean winemaking and attractive fruit. To be critical, the fruit is slightly clumsy, lacking the poise and structure of the best wines. This is not an overly intellectual wine. Drink now or drink later; the choice is yours, but I'll be leaving my remaining bottles for 2-3 years before retasting. Good value for what it is.
Clos Salomon
Price: $A38
Closure: Cork
Date tasted: February 2008
Expressive, pretty nose of florals, deep red and black fruits, a very slight sappy edge and some exotic incense-like character. There's a lack of definition to the fruit that detracts ever so slightly, but one receives adequate compensation through the amount and attractiveness of the flavours that are there. The entry is deceptively slippery, as it takes a few moments for the wine's acidity to register. Once it does, though, relatively intense fruit flavours sizzle within the wine's medium bodied palate. There are quite masculine berry flavours mixed in with vanilla and spice oak, plus a hint of earth/mineral. Most of the wine's fruit weight is currently sitting towards the front of the palate, as the acid tends to take over as the wine progresses towards the after palate. The fruit hangs on, though, and re-emerges on the finish as a lingering, prickly sweetness that persists through a wash of acid and tannin. I think some time for the acid to subside will see the fruit fatten up and sit more evenly through the wine's line. Even as it sits in the glass, the fruit is thickening and gaining weight and complexity. For all that, it's drinking pretty well now.
This is a very tasty wine that shows clean winemaking and attractive fruit. To be critical, the fruit is slightly clumsy, lacking the poise and structure of the best wines. This is not an overly intellectual wine. Drink now or drink later; the choice is yours, but I'll be leaving my remaining bottles for 2-3 years before retasting. Good value for what it is.
Clos Salomon
Price: $A38
Closure: Cork
Date tasted: February 2008
Disclaimer: I'm at the tail end of the annual bout of flu that goes around the office, so take anything I write here with a grain of salt...
First off:It looks like Sebastien Roux isn't actually a Burgundy producer, but rather a négociant label used by Trader Joe's here in the USA. [This entry was updated on Feb. 10, 2008 to correct my mistake. My apologies to M. Roux and his family - they are in fact a family-owned winery that's been making wine since 1885. Please refer to his comment below for a complete explanation...]
There's a bit of sweet tobacco leaf on the nose here, almost exactly like Red Man chewing tobacco, and it's pleasant enough. There's also kind of a high-pitch neon electric cherry vibrating across the surface, and that's not too bad, either. There's also a sort of tomato leaf note here, a sweet greenness, that's appealing as well; this is all balanced by a sort of low-key spice box approach, something like Dutch sausage (think cloves).
In the mouth, OMG TANNIN!!!1!11! After some time in the glass, though, the tannins calm themselves down nicely, so what you get is a moderate bodied, smooth drink that ends on a slightly clumsy note of tannin and oh so French minerality. It's all very, very French and a welcome change from the ubiquitous California pinot noir found in these parts.
At this price, though... well, I suppose it's appropriately priced. Not terrific value, but not a rip-off either. I suppose that's the best one can expect to do in these post-Sideways times.
Sebastien Roux [Domaine Roux Pére et Fils]
Price: US $19.99
Closure: Cork
Date tasted: February 2008
First off:
There's a bit of sweet tobacco leaf on the nose here, almost exactly like Red Man chewing tobacco, and it's pleasant enough. There's also kind of a high-pitch neon electric cherry vibrating across the surface, and that's not too bad, either. There's also a sort of tomato leaf note here, a sweet greenness, that's appealing as well; this is all balanced by a sort of low-key spice box approach, something like Dutch sausage (think cloves).
In the mouth, OMG TANNIN!!!1!11! After some time in the glass, though, the tannins calm themselves down nicely, so what you get is a moderate bodied, smooth drink that ends on a slightly clumsy note of tannin and oh so French minerality. It's all very, very French and a welcome change from the ubiquitous California pinot noir found in these parts.
At this price, though... well, I suppose it's appropriately priced. Not terrific value, but not a rip-off either. I suppose that's the best one can expect to do in these post-Sideways times.
Sebastien Roux [Domaine Roux Pére et Fils]
Price: US $19.99
Closure: Cork
Date tasted: February 2008
Another from the variable (for Riesling, at least) 2007 vintage in the Clare Valley. Skillogalee tends to sit a bit "out there on its own," stylistically, and I happen to enjoy many of its wines a great deal. This wine may come as a surprise to those who are more accustomed to the style of neighbouring Mitchell, for example, or any number of other more austere Rieslings from the area.
A relatively rich colour; hay with a bit of light green, excellent clarity. The nose is equal parts lemon juice and sweeter, tropical fruit (tinned pineapple springs to mind). You don't need to work hard to get smells from the glass, and the aroma profile is indulgent rather than crisp and piercing. The entry shows sizzly, textured acidity and slightly fuller body than one might expect. The mid-palate is as much textural as it is flavoursome, with more rustic acidity and some phenolics sitting alongside citrus and pineapple fruit, plus some bitter herbs. Acidity is a tad unintegrated. Flavour isn't the most intense I've ever experienced, nor is there significant complexity, but it's present and tasty. The after palate brings a focus on the fruit, which drives a nice line through the middle of the tongue. The wine dies a bit on the finish.
Not everyone will like this wine, I imagine, especially if your taste runs to the dryer, more austere Clare Rieslings. And it's not the best Skillogalee Riesling I've had, being perhaps a tad obvious in fruit flavour and coarse in acidity. But it's a tasty wine, fresh of mouthfeel and with easy fruit flavour. I'd pair this with Chinese food, as I'm about to on this Chinese New Year's evening.
Skillogalee
Price: $A22
Closure: Stelvin
Date tasted: February 2008
A relatively rich colour; hay with a bit of light green, excellent clarity. The nose is equal parts lemon juice and sweeter, tropical fruit (tinned pineapple springs to mind). You don't need to work hard to get smells from the glass, and the aroma profile is indulgent rather than crisp and piercing. The entry shows sizzly, textured acidity and slightly fuller body than one might expect. The mid-palate is as much textural as it is flavoursome, with more rustic acidity and some phenolics sitting alongside citrus and pineapple fruit, plus some bitter herbs. Acidity is a tad unintegrated. Flavour isn't the most intense I've ever experienced, nor is there significant complexity, but it's present and tasty. The after palate brings a focus on the fruit, which drives a nice line through the middle of the tongue. The wine dies a bit on the finish.
Not everyone will like this wine, I imagine, especially if your taste runs to the dryer, more austere Clare Rieslings. And it's not the best Skillogalee Riesling I've had, being perhaps a tad obvious in fruit flavour and coarse in acidity. But it's a tasty wine, fresh of mouthfeel and with easy fruit flavour. I'd pair this with Chinese food, as I'm about to on this Chinese New Year's evening.
Skillogalee
Price: $A22
Closure: Stelvin
Date tasted: February 2008
Same producer as for the Bourgogne Rouge tasted earlier this week, but a decided step up in grape source. This wine is from the 1er Cru Les Caillerets vineyard in Volnay.
A more youthful, purple colour than the lower wine, good clarity. The nose is really interesting. There's definite complexity here, mixing plums, a sort of floral yet spicy candied fruit character with a hint of sous-bois and perhaps a tiny bit of brett too. It's seamless and smooth, if a little understated. The palate's entry shows really fine, firm acidity that underlines the wine's flavour profile and creates good movement through to the mid-palate. The flavours here are a replay of the nose, and there's a tightness (without any sense of brutishness) to the wine that suggests it may take some time to find its proper expression. Sweet and sour cherries, some foliage, minerality -- good intensity -- again seamless and elegant, a wine with self-confidence. The after palate displays a hint of oak as tannins start to dry the tongue and prepare for a finish of good length.
It's too early to fully enjoy this wine, but what's here is promising. I will revisit it in a few years' time. I'm about to sit down to dinner and will be interested to see how it responds to food.
Christophe Vaudoisey
Price: $A58
Closure: Cork
Date tasted: February 2008
A more youthful, purple colour than the lower wine, good clarity. The nose is really interesting. There's definite complexity here, mixing plums, a sort of floral yet spicy candied fruit character with a hint of sous-bois and perhaps a tiny bit of brett too. It's seamless and smooth, if a little understated. The palate's entry shows really fine, firm acidity that underlines the wine's flavour profile and creates good movement through to the mid-palate. The flavours here are a replay of the nose, and there's a tightness (without any sense of brutishness) to the wine that suggests it may take some time to find its proper expression. Sweet and sour cherries, some foliage, minerality -- good intensity -- again seamless and elegant, a wine with self-confidence. The after palate displays a hint of oak as tannins start to dry the tongue and prepare for a finish of good length.
It's too early to fully enjoy this wine, but what's here is promising. I will revisit it in a few years' time. I'm about to sit down to dinner and will be interested to see how it responds to food.
Christophe Vaudoisey
Price: $A58
Closure: Cork
Date tasted: February 2008
What with everyone carrying on about 2005 red Burgundy, it would be remiss of me not to contribute a few notes. I have here a selection of Burgs, nothing outrageously expensive, Bourgogne Rouge to 1er Cru, various appellations. I thought I'd start with a modest Bourgogne Rouge from producer Christophe Vaudoisey, who is based in Volnay.
Pretty ruby/orange colour, lightish, transparent. It was a bit reticent on opening, but just a few minutes in the glass has seen its nose reach a more satisfying expressiveness. There's a touch of rubbery smokiness that, for me, does not detract from the pretty florals and fresh crushed red berries that form the major notes here. There's a sharpness to the aroma that is pleasing and clean.
The entry is slippery and focused, if not immediately flavoursome. The middle palate is where things start to get interesting. Light to medium bodied, there are more fresh, astringent berry fruits along with an almost citrus-like sourness, some herbs, and sweet florals. Straightforward, not especially complex, perhaps slightly thin. Mouthfeel is heavily influenced by rough acidity that creates a rustic impression. Flavour intensity is at its greatest as the wine moves into the after palate, where a nice fruit sweetness frames the sour fruit and helps it to sing. The finish is really quite long and satisfying.
For the price, this wine is a bit of a bargain. What you get is an honest, very drinkable wine that combines attractive flavours with a slighty chunky, fun mouthfeel that begs for food. It's not complex but it has character and charm. A good alternative to local Pinots at this price point.
Christophe Vaudoisey
Price: $A22
Closure: Cork
Date tasted: February 2008
Pretty ruby/orange colour, lightish, transparent. It was a bit reticent on opening, but just a few minutes in the glass has seen its nose reach a more satisfying expressiveness. There's a touch of rubbery smokiness that, for me, does not detract from the pretty florals and fresh crushed red berries that form the major notes here. There's a sharpness to the aroma that is pleasing and clean.
The entry is slippery and focused, if not immediately flavoursome. The middle palate is where things start to get interesting. Light to medium bodied, there are more fresh, astringent berry fruits along with an almost citrus-like sourness, some herbs, and sweet florals. Straightforward, not especially complex, perhaps slightly thin. Mouthfeel is heavily influenced by rough acidity that creates a rustic impression. Flavour intensity is at its greatest as the wine moves into the after palate, where a nice fruit sweetness frames the sour fruit and helps it to sing. The finish is really quite long and satisfying.
For the price, this wine is a bit of a bargain. What you get is an honest, very drinkable wine that combines attractive flavours with a slighty chunky, fun mouthfeel that begs for food. It's not complex but it has character and charm. A good alternative to local Pinots at this price point.
Christophe Vaudoisey
Price: $A22
Closure: Cork
Date tasted: February 2008
Two steps up from the Windy Peak Pinot Noir is this number, made from Estate grapes in the Yarra Valley. The 2005 vintage was excellent, so I snapped this one up to try this evening.
A bright ruby, transparent, moderate density. The nose is controlled and delivers a hit of red fruits, both sweet and savoury, plus some minerals, sap and oak. Some good complexity, and just a hint of prettiness. It smells astringent, somehow, and this impression is confirmed on the palate. This light to medium bodied wine enters the mouth with good impact, both acid and sour fruit flavour registering immediately on the tongue. Intense, fresh red fruits mix with sappy flavours on the middle palate, mostly savoury in character but with edges of sweetness, in the same way that some Chinese teas register a delightful sweetness at the very edges of their flavour profile. The wine is well textured, due mostly to its acid, which is assertive without being lumpy or disjointed. The after palate does thin a bit, riding a wave of acid towards a finish that persists with good length.
The structure of this wine, especially its acidity, suggest it may drink better in a few years' time, when it has attained better balance. For now, though, it is a fresh, sophisticated wine of good complexity and notable texture that will match well with food. We had ours with gourmet pizza, to good effect.
Update: I left it overnight and revisited a glass the next morning (spitting of course). The fruit opened up a notch, revealing additional layers of rhubarb-like flavour, and there is a spicier, custardy dimension too. It's still very tight and structured, though. There's definitely some life in this wine.
De Bortoli
Price: $A25
Closure: Stelvin
Date tasted: February 2008
A bright ruby, transparent, moderate density. The nose is controlled and delivers a hit of red fruits, both sweet and savoury, plus some minerals, sap and oak. Some good complexity, and just a hint of prettiness. It smells astringent, somehow, and this impression is confirmed on the palate. This light to medium bodied wine enters the mouth with good impact, both acid and sour fruit flavour registering immediately on the tongue. Intense, fresh red fruits mix with sappy flavours on the middle palate, mostly savoury in character but with edges of sweetness, in the same way that some Chinese teas register a delightful sweetness at the very edges of their flavour profile. The wine is well textured, due mostly to its acid, which is assertive without being lumpy or disjointed. The after palate does thin a bit, riding a wave of acid towards a finish that persists with good length.
The structure of this wine, especially its acidity, suggest it may drink better in a few years' time, when it has attained better balance. For now, though, it is a fresh, sophisticated wine of good complexity and notable texture that will match well with food. We had ours with gourmet pizza, to good effect.
Update: I left it overnight and revisited a glass the next morning (spitting of course). The fruit opened up a notch, revealing additional layers of rhubarb-like flavour, and there is a spicier, custardy dimension too. It's still very tight and structured, though. There's definitely some life in this wine.
De Bortoli
Price: $A25
Closure: Stelvin
Date tasted: February 2008
