April 2008 Archives
Medium red in color, almost cloudy, and smelling like strawberries in potting soil, this wine comes across more Oregon than Burgundy... but giving it some air brings out a distinct sour cherry candy note that really does seem more Old World than New.
Body-wise, this is fairly big for a Pinot with moderate acidity (nothing too scary), some nice grippy tannins on the finish, and a fairly decent oaky flavor that matches nicely with the rich red fruits. All in all, this seems like it's designed to blend potentially otherwise not saleable lots of pedestrian red Burgundy into what turns out to be a pretty decent bottle of wine at the price. I don't really get a sense of place here, but what I do get is a lovely red wine that's aching to be drunk with salmon or Serrano ham. Delicious.
Drouhin
Price: US $19.99
Closure: Cork [crumbly, low quality cork]
Date tasted: April 2008
Body-wise, this is fairly big for a Pinot with moderate acidity (nothing too scary), some nice grippy tannins on the finish, and a fairly decent oaky flavor that matches nicely with the rich red fruits. All in all, this seems like it's designed to blend potentially otherwise not saleable lots of pedestrian red Burgundy into what turns out to be a pretty decent bottle of wine at the price. I don't really get a sense of place here, but what I do get is a lovely red wine that's aching to be drunk with salmon or Serrano ham. Delicious.
Drouhin
Price: US $19.99
Closure: Cork [crumbly, low quality cork]
Date tasted: April 2008
Anyone not familiar with Max Lake's writings on food and wine is well advised to acquaint themselves with his rather extensive bibliography. He is a gourmand of the finest sort; an unashamed sensualist who is not afraid to deeply question the sources of his pleasure. It's been a while now since Mr Lake sold the Lake's Folly winery to Peter Fogarty, and the wines have been made for some time not by the Lakes but by Rodney Kempe. No matter -- the grapes are the same and the general approach remains constant. The 2005 Cabernets is a blend of 68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Petit Verdot, 11% Merlot and 8% Shiraz.
A dense, dark colour, with bright flashes of purple and red. The nose presents a delightfully inscrutable aroma profile, both complex and coherent. Inscrutable because it is deep beyond my perception, yet offers tantalising glimpses of ripe fruit, dried flowers, meatiness and high quality oak. As with the best wines, it knows more than I do. From entry onwards, fruit of the highest quality begins to coat the tongue, spreading flavour that is both intense and dense. It unfolds in a focused line, widening steadily towards the mid-palate. Acid provides most of its structure through the entry and mid-palate, but it's a subtle acidity, fine and subservient to the density of the fruit. Medium bodied, this wine is as much Hunter Valley as it is Cabernet, and its character will feel like coming home to enthusiasts of this region. Others, though, may lament its tendency towards regionality, perhaps at the expense of overt varietal character. Personally, I love it. The after palate remains focused, while lightening a little in tone. Impressively long finish, as velvet tannins coat the mouth with intensely sweet berry flavour.
Wine is an intersection of region, producer and consumer, at its best when these elements are positively aligned. I could drink this every day, so well does it match my idea of good wine.
Lake's Folly
Price: $A50
Closure: Cork
Date tasted: April 2008
A dense, dark colour, with bright flashes of purple and red. The nose presents a delightfully inscrutable aroma profile, both complex and coherent. Inscrutable because it is deep beyond my perception, yet offers tantalising glimpses of ripe fruit, dried flowers, meatiness and high quality oak. As with the best wines, it knows more than I do. From entry onwards, fruit of the highest quality begins to coat the tongue, spreading flavour that is both intense and dense. It unfolds in a focused line, widening steadily towards the mid-palate. Acid provides most of its structure through the entry and mid-palate, but it's a subtle acidity, fine and subservient to the density of the fruit. Medium bodied, this wine is as much Hunter Valley as it is Cabernet, and its character will feel like coming home to enthusiasts of this region. Others, though, may lament its tendency towards regionality, perhaps at the expense of overt varietal character. Personally, I love it. The after palate remains focused, while lightening a little in tone. Impressively long finish, as velvet tannins coat the mouth with intensely sweet berry flavour.
Wine is an intersection of region, producer and consumer, at its best when these elements are positively aligned. I could drink this every day, so well does it match my idea of good wine.
Lake's Folly
Price: $A50
Closure: Cork
Date tasted: April 2008
At first sniff, I thought I'd happened across an egregiously overpriced South African version of white zin: this wine smelled simple and fruity, that's it. Turns out I was wrong: it was just too cold to smell like anything. After a few minutes' reprieve from the fridge, the smell turned to something like flowers that smell like meat in order to attract insects: florid, yeah, but also very, very meaty. Overall, it's something like bacon that's sitting in front of an open window in the countryside; very odd. It almost smells like Malbec, but there's a definite uplift to the nose.
Anyhow: the wine is rich and full in the mouth, starting on a generic red berry note and then quickly resolving to an almost oily, honyed sort of feel combined with black pepper and cherry. There's good freshness here, a bit of residual sugar, and a lovely aftertaste of strawberries and cream that persists well.
All in all, this is an odd one: I don't know of anything like this from the States, Europe, or Australia. It's not cheap, but it's distinctive enough to be good value.
Solms-Delta
Price: US $17.99
Closure: Cork
Date tasted: April 2007
Anyhow: the wine is rich and full in the mouth, starting on a generic red berry note and then quickly resolving to an almost oily, honyed sort of feel combined with black pepper and cherry. There's good freshness here, a bit of residual sugar, and a lovely aftertaste of strawberries and cream that persists well.
All in all, this is an odd one: I don't know of anything like this from the States, Europe, or Australia. It's not cheap, but it's distinctive enough to be good value.
Solms-Delta
Price: US $17.99
Closure: Cork
Date tasted: April 2007
Another outrageously cheap wine from Mike Press in the Adelaide Hills. As with some other Mike Press reds, this seemed a bit oaky on initial release, but it's drinking really well at the moment.
Rich black pepper and dark fruits on the nose. Lively and with good depth, if not great complexity. On entry, quite mouthfilling and quickly flavoursome. The wine funnels generously to the mid-palate, whereupon it washes the mouth with fruit flavour. Medium to full bodied, there are further notes of spicy black pepper and blackberry. These two notes are dominant, but vanilla oak props up the flavour profile and adds extra interest, and there's a slightly herbal edge to the palate that is distinctive and tasty. Not a hint of confectionery; in fact, the wine's fruit flavour is nicely three-dimensional. The wine's structure is assertive enough to match the its dense fruit flavour. There's a nice interplay of fine acid and ripe, dry tannins. Really quite satisfying length.
An attractive wine that packs a lot of flavour into its asking price. It's not a wine you need to work especially hard at which, let's face it, is sometimes a most welcome thing.
Mike Press Wines
Price: $A8.34 ($100/dozen)
Closure: Stelvin
Date tasted: April 2007
Rich black pepper and dark fruits on the nose. Lively and with good depth, if not great complexity. On entry, quite mouthfilling and quickly flavoursome. The wine funnels generously to the mid-palate, whereupon it washes the mouth with fruit flavour. Medium to full bodied, there are further notes of spicy black pepper and blackberry. These two notes are dominant, but vanilla oak props up the flavour profile and adds extra interest, and there's a slightly herbal edge to the palate that is distinctive and tasty. Not a hint of confectionery; in fact, the wine's fruit flavour is nicely three-dimensional. The wine's structure is assertive enough to match the its dense fruit flavour. There's a nice interplay of fine acid and ripe, dry tannins. Really quite satisfying length.
An attractive wine that packs a lot of flavour into its asking price. It's not a wine you need to work especially hard at which, let's face it, is sometimes a most welcome thing.
Mike Press Wines
Price: $A8.34 ($100/dozen)
Closure: Stelvin
Date tasted: April 2007
On a bit of a Pinot run of late, mostly Australasian. Here's a change of pace, then; a Village-level wine from the Morey-Saint-Denis appellation of Burgundy, vintage 2005.
Some good complexity on the nose: there are notes of cherry, candied citrus peel, musk and something a little more herbal and funky. The wine's entry is remarkable -- texturally bright and acidic, it's only until the wine is almost at mid-palate that you realise your tongue has started to sing with flavour from the tip onwards, a sort of delayed reaction. Light to medium bodied, there's significant structure here, mostly acid driven, but with loose-knit and slightly grainy tannins too. There's also good intensity of flavour, which mirrors that on the nose but jumps up a register in brightness thanks to the acid. The wine's line becomes broader as it moves through the after palate. Decent length.
This wine is pretty edgy at the moment, but the fruit's intensity shines through and promises better balance in time. I suspect the lower registers will fill out. Quite a distinctive flavour profile, and right now one for lovers of higher toned Pinot Noir.
Domaine Pierre Amiot et Fils
Price: $A42
Closure: Cork
Date tasted: April 2008
Some good complexity on the nose: there are notes of cherry, candied citrus peel, musk and something a little more herbal and funky. The wine's entry is remarkable -- texturally bright and acidic, it's only until the wine is almost at mid-palate that you realise your tongue has started to sing with flavour from the tip onwards, a sort of delayed reaction. Light to medium bodied, there's significant structure here, mostly acid driven, but with loose-knit and slightly grainy tannins too. There's also good intensity of flavour, which mirrors that on the nose but jumps up a register in brightness thanks to the acid. The wine's line becomes broader as it moves through the after palate. Decent length.
This wine is pretty edgy at the moment, but the fruit's intensity shines through and promises better balance in time. I suspect the lower registers will fill out. Quite a distinctive flavour profile, and right now one for lovers of higher toned Pinot Noir.
Domaine Pierre Amiot et Fils
Price: $A42
Closure: Cork
Date tasted: April 2008
The third of Ngeringa's current release "J.E." wines tasted here at Full Pour (Chardonnay and Shiraz previously, and positively, reviewed). This wine is made of grapes grown using biodynamic techniques. There's a lot of hype around biodynamic producers lately, and I don't hold an opinion as to the inherent superiority (or otherwise) of this approach. For me, it's all about what's in the bottle.
A lovely bright colour, garnet, not terribly dense. Clean yet funky (if that makes sense) aromas of cherry, rhubarb/beetroot and deep spice. Perhaps a little reduction too, but this blows off quickly. Expressive and reasonably complex, it's a nose that shows some bright character but suggests deeper layers of fruit as well. A lovely entry that balances silkiness with fine, firm acidity. It flows with focused line through to the mid-palate. Medium bodied, this wine shows sour red fruit and veg with good depth, plus a firm structure that keeps the wine shapely and alive. Tannins are especially notable for their ripe deliciousness. Slight falloff through the after-palate, but a sappy note persists well on the finish.
A really nice Pinot. The fruit is generous, but it's far from a fruit bomb, with the sort of sophisticated structure that rewards sipping, not gulping. I think balance is a key word here; for me, all the elements cohere and complement well. Super value.
Ngeringa
Price: $A25
Closure: Stelvin
Date tasted: April 2008
A lovely bright colour, garnet, not terribly dense. Clean yet funky (if that makes sense) aromas of cherry, rhubarb/beetroot and deep spice. Perhaps a little reduction too, but this blows off quickly. Expressive and reasonably complex, it's a nose that shows some bright character but suggests deeper layers of fruit as well. A lovely entry that balances silkiness with fine, firm acidity. It flows with focused line through to the mid-palate. Medium bodied, this wine shows sour red fruit and veg with good depth, plus a firm structure that keeps the wine shapely and alive. Tannins are especially notable for their ripe deliciousness. Slight falloff through the after-palate, but a sappy note persists well on the finish.
A really nice Pinot. The fruit is generous, but it's far from a fruit bomb, with the sort of sophisticated structure that rewards sipping, not gulping. I think balance is a key word here; for me, all the elements cohere and complement well. Super value.
Ngeringa
Price: $A25
Closure: Stelvin
Date tasted: April 2008
My partner had one sniff of this and said "Is this Port?" I had one sniff of that and said "Is that that crushed ants thing I've heard people talk about?" In short, this doesn't smell at all like most red wines: there's something different. There's almost a varnish characteristic there as well; not unpleasant, but definitely not "correct" (if Yellow Tail ever shipped with that smell, they'd lose market share overnight).
The color is a lovely cloudy ruby, not as dark as you see in Barossa Valley shiraz; it's more reminiscent of Gallo Hearty Burgundy or canned sangria than anything. I'm not saying that pejoratively, by the way - it really is about that same soft, red velvet cupcake shade of red, and it's beautiful.
In the mouth, this is a medium to heavy bodied wine with a surprising line: at first, grilled toast, red berries, spice; then, it quickly moves on to a mid-palate sensation I can't describe quite yet, and then it fans out into a soft, gentle, seemingly tannin-free finish that's all black cherries. All the while there's that same off note that presents itself on the nose, but I honestly don't mind it; it makes it different than other wines, and I'm fine with that. There's also good supporting acidity here, so even if the tannin seems to have gone missing somewhere between San Diego and South Australia, I don't mind a bit.
All in all, this is a rare treat for me. When my parents retired in 1998, they joined the Peace Corps and found themselves stationed in Moldova, a small Eastern European nation that used to be the great wine producing center of the USSR. Given the lack of any kind of modern technology there, most of their wines had similar characteristics to this one. Me, I find this styles to be utterly compelling and a welcome break from the everything's fine school of winemakingthat's the norm.
If most wines are CDs, this one is vinyl.
Rockford
Price: US $22 (tenth)
Closure: Technical cork (!)
Date tasted: April 2008
The color is a lovely cloudy ruby, not as dark as you see in Barossa Valley shiraz; it's more reminiscent of Gallo Hearty Burgundy or canned sangria than anything. I'm not saying that pejoratively, by the way - it really is about that same soft, red velvet cupcake shade of red, and it's beautiful.
In the mouth, this is a medium to heavy bodied wine with a surprising line: at first, grilled toast, red berries, spice; then, it quickly moves on to a mid-palate sensation I can't describe quite yet, and then it fans out into a soft, gentle, seemingly tannin-free finish that's all black cherries. All the while there's that same off note that presents itself on the nose, but I honestly don't mind it; it makes it different than other wines, and I'm fine with that. There's also good supporting acidity here, so even if the tannin seems to have gone missing somewhere between San Diego and South Australia, I don't mind a bit.
All in all, this is a rare treat for me. When my parents retired in 1998, they joined the Peace Corps and found themselves stationed in Moldova, a small Eastern European nation that used to be the great wine producing center of the USSR. Given the lack of any kind of modern technology there, most of their wines had similar characteristics to this one. Me, I find this styles to be utterly compelling and a welcome break from the everything's fine school of winemakingthat's the norm.
If most wines are CDs, this one is vinyl.
Rockford
Price: US $22 (tenth)
Closure: Technical cork (!)
Date tasted: April 2008
I enjoy Chablis but don't tend to drink it very much. Strange, as it's both a very flexible style and generally excellent value. Well, there's no time like the present to remedy such situations, so here we have a Chablis from the 2005 vintage, a year perhaps better known for reds than whites in this part of the world.
Aromas of talc and flint, with hints of austere nectarine. Utter typicité, and quite lovely if you enjoy this style. The wine's entry shows sophisticated texture, as it is both finely acidic and mouth filling. A cool, fresh mouthfeel, very focussed. Flavour becomes the primary element within the mid-palate, and it is very much in line with the nose: flint and tight stone fruit. Complexity and intensity are not especially remarkable, but the wine's line is hard to fault. The after palate emphasises minerality and pushes strongly into a finish of powdery phenolics and quite good length.
A pure, if somewhat simple, wine that delivers a good dose of Chablis character. It's a good food wine (try it with chicken salad) and also works as an aperitif. Very good value.
Domaine Gautheron
Price: $A28
Closure: Cork
Date tasted: April 2008
Aromas of talc and flint, with hints of austere nectarine. Utter typicité, and quite lovely if you enjoy this style. The wine's entry shows sophisticated texture, as it is both finely acidic and mouth filling. A cool, fresh mouthfeel, very focussed. Flavour becomes the primary element within the mid-palate, and it is very much in line with the nose: flint and tight stone fruit. Complexity and intensity are not especially remarkable, but the wine's line is hard to fault. The after palate emphasises minerality and pushes strongly into a finish of powdery phenolics and quite good length.
A pure, if somewhat simple, wine that delivers a good dose of Chablis character. It's a good food wine (try it with chicken salad) and also works as an aperitif. Very good value.
Domaine Gautheron
Price: $A28
Closure: Cork
Date tasted: April 2008
Perhaps I'm just especially jaded this evening, but after cracking open the bottle and giving it a quick sniff, I thought yeah, it's that grapefruit-lime rind-citron-whatever thing again. Of course, a second later I realized that that's exactly the point: riesling generally doesn't smell like this coming from anywhere else in the world. There's beeswax and honey, fine talc and stoniness, and no aged characters in general at this point; the wine's four years old, but it smells entirely fresh. OK, there could be a tiny bit of kero there, but that's probably just residual dust from last autumn's wildfires still hanging around the lounge. Finally, there's just the barest hint of ripe peach there as well, fleeting and somehow atypical for Clare riesling, but distinctive all the same.
Wow, this is acidic as hell when you finally get to have a taste, and there's the suggestion of fruitiness there, but it's here that you begin to realize that this sweet young thing ain't sweet no more (with apologies to Mudhoney): it's all veering away from youthful exuberant fruitiness and into something else more austere, restrained, different. It's acidic enough to make me scrunch my face up a bit, but it works fine; there isn't acidity on the exit, only on the entry; once the wine's gone, you're left with a lingering finish of lime salt caramels (somehow) and a sense of dry smoothness; it does go on for quite some time, which is remarkable.
Like perhaps every great wine, the reason I broke out smiling after five minutes was simple: there's an entire narrative shoehorned into a single liquid here. It doesn't smell like it tastes. It doesn't finish as it begins. As the wine begins, you think you've seen it all before, but then it begins shifting underneath your feet, taking you to a few unexpected places before gently fading into the end of the day.
If you give yourself enough time, you could probably suss out a dozen different narrative threads here: the smoothness of French caramel, the crack of a fresh Bearss lime, the chalky comfort of talc, the hint of peach, the sea. Of course, what's amazing here is that you can't ever pin it down; this, after all, is what you're paying so much for, and it's entirely worth it.
Grosset
Price: US $32
Closure: Stelvin
Date tasted: April 2008
Wow, this is acidic as hell when you finally get to have a taste, and there's the suggestion of fruitiness there, but it's here that you begin to realize that this sweet young thing ain't sweet no more (with apologies to Mudhoney): it's all veering away from youthful exuberant fruitiness and into something else more austere, restrained, different. It's acidic enough to make me scrunch my face up a bit, but it works fine; there isn't acidity on the exit, only on the entry; once the wine's gone, you're left with a lingering finish of lime salt caramels (somehow) and a sense of dry smoothness; it does go on for quite some time, which is remarkable.
Like perhaps every great wine, the reason I broke out smiling after five minutes was simple: there's an entire narrative shoehorned into a single liquid here. It doesn't smell like it tastes. It doesn't finish as it begins. As the wine begins, you think you've seen it all before, but then it begins shifting underneath your feet, taking you to a few unexpected places before gently fading into the end of the day.
If you give yourself enough time, you could probably suss out a dozen different narrative threads here: the smoothness of French caramel, the crack of a fresh Bearss lime, the chalky comfort of talc, the hint of peach, the sea. Of course, what's amazing here is that you can't ever pin it down; this, after all, is what you're paying so much for, and it's entirely worth it.
Grosset
Price: US $32
Closure: Stelvin
Date tasted: April 2008
For those visiting the Central Otago region, do drop by Peregrine's cellar door, as much for the spectacular setting and architecture as the wines. I enjoyed a wide range of wines when there last year, but right now we have the key label in its portfolio: the Pinot Noir.
This wine, made from fruit of the Cromwell Basin (Northburn) and Gibbston Valley sub-regions, makes an interesting stylistic comparison with well known wines from the Bannockburn sub-region (specifically, the 2006 Mount Difficulty and Felton Road Pinots previously tasted here at Full Pour). On the nose, this wine is a detailed, perfumed wine of impressive complexity. There are notes of bright sour plum, spice, sap, sausage and citrus mixed into a well integrated flavour profile. It's a delicate nose, and if I were to compare it with the Bannockburn Pinots, I would say this wine shows greater finesse and complexity, perhaps at the expense of outright impact.
Initially, I found the palate to be structurally overwhelming, with prominent acidity and tannins washing away any substantial trace of fruit flavour. Some vigorous swirling, though, has helped to rebalance the palate, and through the evening it has become more drinkable, if still highly structured. Acidity and bright fruit weave in and out of each other on entry, creating a very focussed first impression. As the wine moves to the mid-palate, it remains quite driven in its line, but the fruit relaxes somewhat to express hints of sweetness amongst the primarily savoury, sour flavour profile. There's a lot going on here, flavour-wise, with more sour plum and spice, plus a strong mineral streak. The flavour continues to build towards the after palate, where a clean, attractive burst of red fruit presents, before velvet tannins whisk the wine away to a lengthy finish.
Frankly, this wine isn't ready to drink now and, as excited as I am about it, I should note that its best days are ahead of it. Having made that point, this is an excellent wine that has enormous potential to become superb with a few years in bottle. It's already complex, and just needs time for its structure to soften and let the fruit emerge from its cage. One that's worth waiting for (and excellent value).
Peregrine
Price: $NZ39
Closure: Stelvin
Date tasted: April 2008
This wine, made from fruit of the Cromwell Basin (Northburn) and Gibbston Valley sub-regions, makes an interesting stylistic comparison with well known wines from the Bannockburn sub-region (specifically, the 2006 Mount Difficulty and Felton Road Pinots previously tasted here at Full Pour). On the nose, this wine is a detailed, perfumed wine of impressive complexity. There are notes of bright sour plum, spice, sap, sausage and citrus mixed into a well integrated flavour profile. It's a delicate nose, and if I were to compare it with the Bannockburn Pinots, I would say this wine shows greater finesse and complexity, perhaps at the expense of outright impact.
Initially, I found the palate to be structurally overwhelming, with prominent acidity and tannins washing away any substantial trace of fruit flavour. Some vigorous swirling, though, has helped to rebalance the palate, and through the evening it has become more drinkable, if still highly structured. Acidity and bright fruit weave in and out of each other on entry, creating a very focussed first impression. As the wine moves to the mid-palate, it remains quite driven in its line, but the fruit relaxes somewhat to express hints of sweetness amongst the primarily savoury, sour flavour profile. There's a lot going on here, flavour-wise, with more sour plum and spice, plus a strong mineral streak. The flavour continues to build towards the after palate, where a clean, attractive burst of red fruit presents, before velvet tannins whisk the wine away to a lengthy finish.
Frankly, this wine isn't ready to drink now and, as excited as I am about it, I should note that its best days are ahead of it. Having made that point, this is an excellent wine that has enormous potential to become superb with a few years in bottle. It's already complex, and just needs time for its structure to soften and let the fruit emerge from its cage. One that's worth waiting for (and excellent value).
Peregrine
Price: $NZ39
Closure: Stelvin
Date tasted: April 2008
Kooyong's Massale Pinot has two things immediately going for it: it is reasonably priced and classily packaged (I do like the Kooyong label design, generally). I saw this on a restaurant wine list the other day and had to give it a go.
A piercing nose of sappy red fruits, minerality and a touch of oak. The palate shows good intensity from entry onwards, although this intensity is counterbalanced by an overall delicacy and lightness of touch. The wine's acid structure is quite prominent, and this adds zip to the wine's middle palate of sour red fruits, hints of sous-bois, perhaps some sweet nutty spice and minerality. The fruit character is bright and clear, and elegantly savoury. Mouthfeel is very fresh indeed, thanks to that acid, and the finish shows slightly grainy tannins that are noticeable but well-balanced.
This wine is elegant and "adult", although not especially complex. I found that it responded extremely well to food (creamy pasta), so for full enjoyment, one is well advised to try this with, not as, a meal.
Kooyong
Price: $A28
Closure: Diam
Date tasted: April 2008
A piercing nose of sappy red fruits, minerality and a touch of oak. The palate shows good intensity from entry onwards, although this intensity is counterbalanced by an overall delicacy and lightness of touch. The wine's acid structure is quite prominent, and this adds zip to the wine's middle palate of sour red fruits, hints of sous-bois, perhaps some sweet nutty spice and minerality. The fruit character is bright and clear, and elegantly savoury. Mouthfeel is very fresh indeed, thanks to that acid, and the finish shows slightly grainy tannins that are noticeable but well-balanced.
This wine is elegant and "adult", although not especially complex. I found that it responded extremely well to food (creamy pasta), so for full enjoyment, one is well advised to try this with, not as, a meal.
Kooyong
Price: $A28
Closure: Diam
Date tasted: April 2008
In lieu of a proper post, here are some quick notes on four wines I've had this week:
Mitchell Riesling 2002 [Clare Valley]: Although this was once the Penguin Wine of the Year [if memory serves me right], it isn't holding up particularly well. If there's ever a criticism I've had of Clare riesling in general, it's that it's too stingy with the residual sugar. Six years after harvest, there's little left to love: some kero on the nose, acidity still very much present, something like lime, and... that's it. I was seriously tempted to add a bit of simple syrup in hopes of a Frankenmosel but decided against it. I still have half a case, so here's hoping this either improves or I learn to like it better.
Petaluma Hanlin Hill Riesling 2002 [Clare Valley]: This is, I'd think, probably about as good as Australian riesling gets [it's either this, Grosset, or Steingarten, I suppose]. Six years on, the nose was strangely absent both straight out of the fridge and after warming up a bit. Eventually, I think I smelled something like hay or dust on a lightbulb. In the mouth, however, this wine is an absolute delight: so light it's barely even there, ethereal, stony, citral... fantastic.
DEWN Gonzo Pinot Gris 2005 [Bonny Doon Vineyard]: If you're teaching a class in wine faults and need to show your students with reduction smells like... grab a bottle of this. Smells like someone dumped a load of sulfur in a barn stall. Ugh.
Bonny Doon Ca' del Solo Muscat 2006: If you're going to drink a muscat, and if you've decided against Moscato d'Asti because you can't stand bubbles or want more alcohol in your wine, then this is probably one of the best bottles you'll be able to find. Truly beautiful stuff: all orange blossom and jasmine perfume, beautifully balanced, not sweet, and a lovely greenish yellow in the glass. Highly recommended.
Mitchell Riesling 2002 [Clare Valley]: Although this was once the Penguin Wine of the Year [if memory serves me right], it isn't holding up particularly well. If there's ever a criticism I've had of Clare riesling in general, it's that it's too stingy with the residual sugar. Six years after harvest, there's little left to love: some kero on the nose, acidity still very much present, something like lime, and... that's it. I was seriously tempted to add a bit of simple syrup in hopes of a Frankenmosel but decided against it. I still have half a case, so here's hoping this either improves or I learn to like it better.
Petaluma Hanlin Hill Riesling 2002 [Clare Valley]: This is, I'd think, probably about as good as Australian riesling gets [it's either this, Grosset, or Steingarten, I suppose]. Six years on, the nose was strangely absent both straight out of the fridge and after warming up a bit. Eventually, I think I smelled something like hay or dust on a lightbulb. In the mouth, however, this wine is an absolute delight: so light it's barely even there, ethereal, stony, citral... fantastic.
DEWN Gonzo Pinot Gris 2005 [Bonny Doon Vineyard]: If you're teaching a class in wine faults and need to show your students with reduction smells like... grab a bottle of this. Smells like someone dumped a load of sulfur in a barn stall. Ugh.
Bonny Doon Ca' del Solo Muscat 2006: If you're going to drink a muscat, and if you've decided against Moscato d'Asti because you can't stand bubbles or want more alcohol in your wine, then this is probably one of the best bottles you'll be able to find. Truly beautiful stuff: all orange blossom and jasmine perfume, beautifully balanced, not sweet, and a lovely greenish yellow in the glass. Highly recommended.
While the other half is enduring a regrettable alcohol-free period, I have been scouring the cellar for inexpensive tid-bits that I had hoped would generate enough interest to write up. Alas, no mixed success so far, although the experience does highlight how much one's impressions of a wine can change over time.
I purchased a few bottles of the Seppelt Chalambar 2005 a little while ago after tasting it once and finding it sufficiently delicious. My second bottle, consumed last night (and around six months after the first) was not nearly so interesting. It was generous enough, and distinctive in character, but I found it unattractively blurred and thus utterly unrewarding to contemplate as anything other than a tasty quaffer. Perhaps I was in a bad mood, as it's not a bad wine by any means. Or perhaps it was a dud bottle.
By contrast, the Clonakilla Hilltops Shiraz 2006 has never tasted so good as it did the other night. The last few tastings of this wine (a personal favourite) have been ever so slightly disappointing, as I have found the wine to be lacking in clarity and ever so clumsy. Although it still feels like a gangly teenager, on the basis of my latest tasting it may yet achieve a more harmonious maturity. An intense blast of purple jubes, licorice allsorts and pepper on both nose and palate characterises this wine, which is of significant flavour density. The structure is not quite resolved, with acid sticking out a bit, and tannins feeling a little chunkier than one would like. But my experience of this label is that it drinks best with several years' age on it, so it's certainly heading in the right direction. Good drinking.
I presented the 2005 4 Acres at a dinner with Chris last year, where it promptly stole the limelight from a table full of desirable labels we had both brought to the party, as much for its difference as its objective quality. It was like essence of Hunter Shiraz, quirkily different from "Australian Shiraz" as well as singular in the context of its own regional style.
The 2006 is interesting for a number of reasons, not least because it shows a clear relationship with its Vat 9 sibling of the same vintage, perhaps indicating the degree to which vintage conditions shine through with these wines. A bit of sulfur suppressing significant aroma at first, but lifting after an hour or so to show deep, rich smells of red fruit, eucalyptus and some regional stink. There's also faint oak influence that adds richness and depth rather than anything especially "primary." It's a beguiling aroma, and quite complex.
Entry shows good impact and flavour intensity from the tip of the tongue onwards. There's a lovely fanning out of flavour with this wine and, by the time the mid-palate arrives, the mouth is awash with intense, quality fruit. More red fruit and dirt here, mostly savoury but with edges of sweetness. As with the Vat 9, there's a slightly plummy, very ripe fruit note. I think it works better in the context of this wine, though, because overall the 4 Acres is a lighter and more charming wine than the Vat 9, and can carry this idiosyncratic flavour profile more easily. The wine's structure seems evenly split between prominent yet balanced acidity and velvety, mouth filling tannins. Mouthfeel is correspondingly bright and substantial. Nice, focused line through the after palate and finish.
I really love this wine, and I admit I'm biased towards its style. But it's an easy wine to fall for and, despite its sophistication, I imagine wine novices would easily recognise the quality of this wine's fruit, as well as its superb balance. If anything, it's a more "complete" wine than the 2005, and I've a feeling it's only showing the tip of the iceberg in terms of what it might become in a few years' time. I'll be waiting with anticipation.
Tyrrell's
Price: $A30
Closure: Stelvin
Date tasted: April 2008
The 2006 is interesting for a number of reasons, not least because it shows a clear relationship with its Vat 9 sibling of the same vintage, perhaps indicating the degree to which vintage conditions shine through with these wines. A bit of sulfur suppressing significant aroma at first, but lifting after an hour or so to show deep, rich smells of red fruit, eucalyptus and some regional stink. There's also faint oak influence that adds richness and depth rather than anything especially "primary." It's a beguiling aroma, and quite complex.
Entry shows good impact and flavour intensity from the tip of the tongue onwards. There's a lovely fanning out of flavour with this wine and, by the time the mid-palate arrives, the mouth is awash with intense, quality fruit. More red fruit and dirt here, mostly savoury but with edges of sweetness. As with the Vat 9, there's a slightly plummy, very ripe fruit note. I think it works better in the context of this wine, though, because overall the 4 Acres is a lighter and more charming wine than the Vat 9, and can carry this idiosyncratic flavour profile more easily. The wine's structure seems evenly split between prominent yet balanced acidity and velvety, mouth filling tannins. Mouthfeel is correspondingly bright and substantial. Nice, focused line through the after palate and finish.
I really love this wine, and I admit I'm biased towards its style. But it's an easy wine to fall for and, despite its sophistication, I imagine wine novices would easily recognise the quality of this wine's fruit, as well as its superb balance. If anything, it's a more "complete" wine than the 2005, and I've a feeling it's only showing the tip of the iceberg in terms of what it might become in a few years' time. I'll be waiting with anticipation.
Tyrrell's
Price: $A30
Closure: Stelvin
Date tasted: April 2008
The distinct sourness on the nose here is your first indication that this isn't a New World wine. The smoke and minerals on the nose are appetizing; the wine is a lovely, dark, inky color and offers up somewhat jammy blackberry fruit as well. Somewhat alarmingly, there also appears to be a fair amount of residual sulfur dioxide that sneaks in from time to time; it's kind of an off note, but it isn't too prominent and fades into the background easily enough.
In the mouth, the wine seems a bit thin... OK, compared to California red wine, it is perhaps a bit thin, but this is more properly described as elegant. There's a real fullness of fruit here along with a sort of menthol edge, fading out into a gentle finish with hints of pine resin, peppercorn, and cedar. The sourness makes a return as well, but it's well integrated into the overall line here. The softness of the finish is also a bit surprising, but also apparently quite typical for this grape variety (I had to look it up; this is the first lagrein I've ever tasted).
Oddly enough, this wine tastes green to me; if most red wines are red, this one is somehow green. It's not a capsicum/bell pepper green, but rather woodruff or basil. It's intriguing and a welcome change from your ordinary Friday night bottle of wine.
J. Hofstätter
Price: US $16.95
Closure: Cork
Date tasted: April 2008
In the mouth, the wine seems a bit thin... OK, compared to California red wine, it is perhaps a bit thin, but this is more properly described as elegant. There's a real fullness of fruit here along with a sort of menthol edge, fading out into a gentle finish with hints of pine resin, peppercorn, and cedar. The sourness makes a return as well, but it's well integrated into the overall line here. The softness of the finish is also a bit surprising, but also apparently quite typical for this grape variety (I had to look it up; this is the first lagrein I've ever tasted).
Oddly enough, this wine tastes green to me; if most red wines are red, this one is somehow green. It's not a capsicum/bell pepper green, but rather woodruff or basil. It's intriguing and a welcome change from your ordinary Friday night bottle of wine.
J. Hofstätter
Price: US $16.95
Closure: Cork
Date tasted: April 2008
It must be slightly nerve-wracking for producers known for their "excellent value for money" wines. When wine lovers sniff out a bargain, it's easy to take for granted that a wine will, year after year, deliver a level of quality above its price point. It's almost as if one waits for the reality to hit (as it has in the past with countless labels). Taylors, though, seems to maintain a good line in value Clare Valley wines, and their Cabernet Sauvignon is known as perhaps their greatest bargain. I read, I think over at Winefront, that it's Australia's biggest selling Cabernet Sauvignon wine. Here's the 2006 version.
A lovely, expressive nose of cassis and leafiness (or is it gravel?), with a dash of powdery vanilla for good measure. It's instantly varietal and generous, if quite ripe. Entry is flavoursome and focused, with a nice line starting from the tip of the tongue and widening through to the mid-palate. The wine's physical presence down the centre of the tongue is tight, yet this never creates an impression of being lean or intellectual. Rather, the flavour profile shows quite ripe cassis and blackberry alongside generous yet delicious vanilla oak. Body is medium to full. The wine's structure is assertive, with acid tingling the tongue at the same time as powdery, slightly chunky tannins fill the mouth. I'm quite sure the wine could take some ageing, as it has not deteriorated significantly in the two days since I opened it. There's a diminution of body as the wine moves through the after-palate, but this thinning is compensated by the wine's decent, dry finish.
I bought this wine for $15 and I'm glad to say that it remains a great bargain. A delicious wine that should satisfy any craving for flavoursome, generous Cabernet.
Taylors
Price: $A15
Closure: Stelvin
Date tasted: April 2008
A lovely, expressive nose of cassis and leafiness (or is it gravel?), with a dash of powdery vanilla for good measure. It's instantly varietal and generous, if quite ripe. Entry is flavoursome and focused, with a nice line starting from the tip of the tongue and widening through to the mid-palate. The wine's physical presence down the centre of the tongue is tight, yet this never creates an impression of being lean or intellectual. Rather, the flavour profile shows quite ripe cassis and blackberry alongside generous yet delicious vanilla oak. Body is medium to full. The wine's structure is assertive, with acid tingling the tongue at the same time as powdery, slightly chunky tannins fill the mouth. I'm quite sure the wine could take some ageing, as it has not deteriorated significantly in the two days since I opened it. There's a diminution of body as the wine moves through the after-palate, but this thinning is compensated by the wine's decent, dry finish.
I bought this wine for $15 and I'm glad to say that it remains a great bargain. A delicious wine that should satisfy any craving for flavoursome, generous Cabernet.
Taylors
Price: $A15
Closure: Stelvin
Date tasted: April 2008
Although I've never wandered out into Scottish bogs to cut peat for a crofter's fire, I imagine it might smell something like this wine does: dark, loamy, and sweet at the same time. There's definitely more than a hint of animalics here; it's got that kind of sweetness on the nose that reminds me of more than a few perfumes [e.g. Comme des Garçons 2 Man]. There's kind of a high-toned flare [flair?] to it as well; it isn't all heavy, funky; there's also an uplift to the perfume which rounds it off nicely.
Color-wise, this wine looks like Bandol more than anything else; it doesn't appear particularly old at this point, and the rim isn't especially watery. There's a bit of onionskin browning there, sure, but it could fool you into thinking that this wine is younger than it is.
In the mouth, there's a short burst of sweetness immediately checked by firm, dusty tannins; the flavor makes a sharp turn upwards to something like carrots or root vegetables (no kidding!), before flattening out into a fairly long, soft finish with good acidity. All in all, it feels like there's an awful lot going on here; there are also some cedary notes as well as a Vegemite-on-raspberry effect.
I'd hazard a guess that this will will still be drinking well a decade from now, but I'm far from an expert in these matters. If anything, it's beautiful right now and highly recommended (especially at the US importer's clearance pricing).
Rosemount Estate
Price: US $9.99
Closure: Cork
Date tasted: April 2008
Note: The label actually says GSM, but I was amused by its Web site nomenclature, reproduced above. C'mon... Epicurean Collection? Give me a break!
Color-wise, this wine looks like Bandol more than anything else; it doesn't appear particularly old at this point, and the rim isn't especially watery. There's a bit of onionskin browning there, sure, but it could fool you into thinking that this wine is younger than it is.
In the mouth, there's a short burst of sweetness immediately checked by firm, dusty tannins; the flavor makes a sharp turn upwards to something like carrots or root vegetables (no kidding!), before flattening out into a fairly long, soft finish with good acidity. All in all, it feels like there's an awful lot going on here; there are also some cedary notes as well as a Vegemite-on-raspberry effect.
I'd hazard a guess that this will will still be drinking well a decade from now, but I'm far from an expert in these matters. If anything, it's beautiful right now and highly recommended (especially at the US importer's clearance pricing).
Rosemount Estate
Price: US $9.99
Closure: Cork
Date tasted: April 2008
Note: The label actually says GSM, but I was amused by its Web site nomenclature, reproduced above. C'mon... Epicurean Collection? Give me a break!
I really don't know what to say about this wine. It smells like Pinot Noir, more or less... and I'm at a loss for descriptors past that point. There seems to be some kind of weird spritziness on the tongue, and I find myself wondering if there's been a small refermentation in bottle as well; there's an odd, yeasty note that's unattractive and it mostly tastes of pizza dough that someone dropped in a wax cup of strawberry Kool-Aid at the end of a children's birthday party.
Fifteen minutes after pouring, there's kind of a foamy, frothy ring around the wine as it sits in my glass. It's not very attractive. Here's a snapshot:
With additional time and air, this wine is about as far from good pinot noir as it gets. It's medium bodied, atypically so for Pinot. The wine is heavy, dull, flabby, and overripe. There is no finish. There is no excuse for shipping this wine overseas; it should have been consumed as sangria, preferably in Nelson.
Thankfully, our street's recyclables are being picked up by the city overnight. I don't want to have to look at this bottle in the morning and be reminded of my mistake.
Villa Maria
Price: US $17.99
Closure: Stelvin
Date tasted: April 2008
Fifteen minutes after pouring, there's kind of a foamy, frothy ring around the wine as it sits in my glass. It's not very attractive. Here's a snapshot:
With additional time and air, this wine is about as far from good pinot noir as it gets. It's medium bodied, atypically so for Pinot. The wine is heavy, dull, flabby, and overripe. There is no finish. There is no excuse for shipping this wine overseas; it should have been consumed as sangria, preferably in Nelson.
Thankfully, our street's recyclables are being picked up by the city overnight. I don't want to have to look at this bottle in the morning and be reminded of my mistake.
Villa Maria
Price: US $17.99
Closure: Stelvin
Date tasted: April 2008
It's not often I leave a sub-$10 wine overnight, and overnight again, to see how it evolves. But this wine has prompted me to do so, with most pleasing results.
I've had this one a few times with, I admit, mixed impressions at first. My first bottle seemed a little murky, structurally, lacking the purity I often associate with Pinot Noir, especially New World styles. It was also showing a heavy, oak-driven flavour profile. Whilst this wine is not, and will never be, a bright cherry fruit bomb, time will help to clarify its flavour components and structure.
So what does it smell and taste like? At first, a whole mix of flavours, not terribly well delineated, generous, a little "dark." After a day, it was as if a veil had lifted, revealing clean and somewhat brighter (though still deep) fruit flavour, along with definite earthiness, some musk, and perhaps a little lift. The entry is pleasantly lively, with some acid tingling the tip of the tongue as flavour introduces itself towards the mid-palate. Fruit flavour is mostly dark berry in character, and is accompanied by more earth and sous-bois. Oak is relegated to a supporting role now, and it's astonishing how much this aspect of the wine has stepped back over the last six months. Mouthfeel is quite lovely, mixing the aforementioned acidic freshness with fine, powdery tannins of the mouth coating variety. It's definitely tending towards a "dry red" style but, if you're open to this, will be a pleasing wine in its own right. The after-palate and finish show good line and persistence.
At just over $A8 per bottle, I'm astonished this wine is drinkable, let alone stylish and expressive of personality.
Mike Press Wines
Price: $A8.34 ($100/dozen)
Closure: Stelvin
Date tasted: April 2008
I've had this one a few times with, I admit, mixed impressions at first. My first bottle seemed a little murky, structurally, lacking the purity I often associate with Pinot Noir, especially New World styles. It was also showing a heavy, oak-driven flavour profile. Whilst this wine is not, and will never be, a bright cherry fruit bomb, time will help to clarify its flavour components and structure.
So what does it smell and taste like? At first, a whole mix of flavours, not terribly well delineated, generous, a little "dark." After a day, it was as if a veil had lifted, revealing clean and somewhat brighter (though still deep) fruit flavour, along with definite earthiness, some musk, and perhaps a little lift. The entry is pleasantly lively, with some acid tingling the tip of the tongue as flavour introduces itself towards the mid-palate. Fruit flavour is mostly dark berry in character, and is accompanied by more earth and sous-bois. Oak is relegated to a supporting role now, and it's astonishing how much this aspect of the wine has stepped back over the last six months. Mouthfeel is quite lovely, mixing the aforementioned acidic freshness with fine, powdery tannins of the mouth coating variety. It's definitely tending towards a "dry red" style but, if you're open to this, will be a pleasing wine in its own right. The after-palate and finish show good line and persistence.
At just over $A8 per bottle, I'm astonished this wine is drinkable, let alone stylish and expressive of personality.
Mike Press Wines
Price: $A8.34 ($100/dozen)
Closure: Stelvin
Date tasted: April 2008
