Full Pour: Search Results

Scarborough Blue Label Chardonnay 2009

20 Aug 2010

Though just as generously flavoursome as its Yellow Label sibling, this wine is made in quite a different style, more aligned to the contemporary idiom. There's no new oak, its fruit is crisp and fresh, its complexity apparently lees-derived with only partial malolactic fermentation.

The nose is crisp, flinty aromas overlaying white nectarine and some funk, possibly sulfurous in nature. Its impact is savoury and rather chiselled; this doesn't present as an especially buxom style. But there's a nice depth to the aroma that prevents it from being an exclusively high toned aroma profile.

The palate shows some richer fruit alongside a continuation of the nose's savouriness. Entry is very flavoursome, an initially crisp mouthfeel becoming glossier and fuller towards the middle palate. A nice array of fruit flavours fans out here; there's citrus and peach in equal measure, with just a hint of butterscotch. Mouthfeel is especially interesting, showing good texture and detail in a contradictorily soft package. A fresh herbal twang asserts through the after palate. The finish is sharp and lengthy.

An attractive style, well executed and priced.

Scarborough
Price: $A19
Closure: Stelvin
Source: Sample

Scarborough Yellow Label Chardonnay 2007

9 Aug 2010

Chardonnay, let alone Hunter Chardonnay, is hardly at the vanguard of vinous fashion, so one could be forgiven for greeting this Scarborough wine a shrug. It pays to remember, though, the Hunter has a special place in the history of Australian Chardonnay, and continues to be the home of two of Australia's more sought after peaches: the Lake's Folly white and Tyrrell's Vat 47. Scarborough is something of a Chardonnay specialist, having earned an enviable reputation for this varietal, so I approached this wine with high expectations.

The nose is fresh and clean, showing aromas of butter, peach, a little bit of minerality, perhaps a herbal twang and some smokey toast. Complex, then, but its buttery balance speaks more of enjoyment than analysis. I like that the oak is subdued, the wine appearing to rely more on fruit character and other forms of winemaking input (some lees work, I suspect) to achieve its aroma profile.

The palate takes a step up in expressiveness, being quite rich and full-flavoured. Entry is strikingly flavoursome, a nice spectrum of peach, citrus and butter notes caressing the tongue and paving the way for a middle palate that is quite flooded with fruit. The flavours are very clean at this point, showing good definition and shape, supported by easygoing acidity. I feel this wine's textural dimension, though, isn't quite balanced, being too reticent and consequently somewhat overwhelmed by the fullness of the fruit flavour. I'd like to feel a bit more mealiness on my tongue on the mid-palate, which would add more sophistication to the palate structure. The after palate does offer a bit more in this regard, and this helps carry the wine through a finish that seemed a bit hot to me.

Lovely fruit here, made in a gloriously unfashionable style that I admit to enjoying more often than not. It's not over the top, simply generous and warm. Very well priced.

Scarborough
Price: $A21
Closure: Stelvin
Source: Sample

Thomas DJV Shiraz 2007

13 Jul 2010

I bought some of this ages ago on the strength of some writeups but this is the first time I've sat down to taste it. What interested me about this wine -- and it was a sufficient hook to prompt me to buy untasted -- was a stated intent to create an "old school" Hunter red, lighter in body and acidified courtesy of Semillon rather than tartaric acid from a packet. All this by one of the hottest producers in the Hunter Valley, a region whose wines I enjoy beyond reasonable measure.

The nose is fleet yet intense, with floral notes, crunchy red berries, nutty caramel oak and a light dash of regional red dirt. A hint of minerality too? Perhaps. This is an elegant aroma profile in all respects, not battering the senses but rather suggesting its character slowly, building complexity as it speaks.

The palate does that wonderful Pinot-like trick of combining fabulous impact and intensity with deceptively light structure and body. Anyone who tends to mistake weight for substance should have sip of this wine. Entry is quite tingly, with bright red fruits and assertive acidity winding around each other towards the middle palate, where the flavours open out a bit. There's a curiously juicy green streak here -- green in the sense of flower stalks and the sap of succulents -- that creates a really fresh overlay to more red fruit and dirt. The tannin-derived texture is fabulous, being light and loose yet even at the same time. Intense flavours ride right through the after palate and finish.

What a curious wine; it seems so modest in its styling, yet shows all the hallmarks of quality: complexity, intensity, persistence. Surely one to follow.

Thomas Wines
Price: $A35
Closure: Stelvin
Source: Retail

Lake's Folly Folly Red 2008

20 Jun 2010

2008 was a disastrous year for red wines in the Hunter Valley, and some producers -- Tyrrell's, for example -- chose not to release any Shiraz-based wines as a result. According to Lake's Folly, Cabernet fared somewhat better than its more regionally acceptable cousin, hence this wine. It's technically not declassified, selling for the same price as the regular Cabernets. However, it has been labelled differently to mark a difference in style.

There's also, to be frank, a fairly large gap in quality. Whether this is an issue will depend partly on one's curiosity for the Lake's Folly vineyard. Certainly, the 2008 wine is an opportunity to taste a completely different expression of this site, and I value that opportunity quite apart from notions of absolute quality.

On first sniff, it's obvious this wine represents a vastly different style from the Cabernets, being both lighter and more fruit forward than usual. Although there are the usual Hunter influences here -- damp earth, mostly -- the fruit character is light, slightly confected and extraordinarily un-Cabernet like. There are plum skins and cherries and perhaps a raspberry or two; no cassis in sight. The palate confirms the light style of this wine and, overall, this seems much more like Pinot than anything else. The acid structure is pretty fantastic, firm and fresh, carrying a somewhat dilute wash of fruit flavour through the entry and mid-palates. There's a lovely sappiness to the after palate that communicates freshness and life. The finish is quite long, all things considered, with a lick of raspy tannins to close.

What an oddity. It lacks the complexity, intensity and just plain awesomeness of a typical Cabernets release, but despite all that it's curiously drinkable and really quite lovely. 12% abv.

Lake's Folly
Price: $A55
Closure: Cork
Source: Retail

Mount Pleasant Lovedale Semillon 2008

11 Jun 2010

The Lovedale label is dear to my heart. Not only did the 95 turn me on the peculiar waxy mouthfeel that aged Hunter Semillon can sometimes show, but the 96 was the first wine I wrote up on Full Pour.

Oh, and it's generally a bloody good drop too. This one is not yet released. Interestingly for a wine style that tends to do quite well at the Sydney Royal Wine Show, this comprehensively failed to win any medals in its class in the 2009 show. On the basis of this tasting, it's slightly atypical in its softness, and perhaps showing some of the coolness of the season in its flavour profile, but still an excellent wine.

Still full of CO2 spritz. Over an hour after pouring my first glass, there are still plenty of bubbles apparent and a noticeable influence on both nose and palate. Looking past the sparkling mineral water character, the aroma is already complex, if a bit all over the place. There's lemon rind, toast, herbs and grass. I'm always impressed when young Hunter Semillon shows a range of flavours, as the best ones tend to do. The definition is slightly hazier than I'd like, but it's expressive and seems built to accumulate aged notes.

Palate is very nicely structured. Quite full on entry, with a softness to the mouthfeel that temporarily masks a thrust of citrus fruit that shoots out from underneath and carries right down the line. More cut grass and pithy citrus; there's good detail to the flavour profile, and it's all quite lively thanks to the spritz and a firm, sherbet-like line of acid. It's pretty young and raw, again with a haze of softness that drifts over the whole and adds a pretty, perfume-like influence to the wine. Excellent length.

Not remotely ready to drink, but should be fun with a few more years' bottle age. Nice to see this with a screw cap.

McWilliams Mount Pleasant
Price: $NA
Closure: Stelvin
Source: Sample

Tyrrell's Johnno's Semillon 2009

1 Jan 2010

Tyrrell's has long made a habit of highlighting single vineyards in its Semillon porfolio, and this label continues the tradition. Small batch (250 dozen), old vines (1908), sandy soils; it oozes cred simply for what it is. Tyrrell's has gone a step further here and vinified the grapes in a deliberately old fashioned manner, sending things off the authenticity scale entirely. Indeed, it's the kind of wine that is so tantalising on paper, one half suspects it will be a disappointment in the mouth.

In fact, it has quite exceeded my expectations. I've drunk this over two evenings and it has hardly moved, perhaps softening slightly on day two. The nose shows typically straightforward young Semillon citrus, in this case surrounded by a range of other flavours, from chalk to cheese, that add complexity. It's still austere and quite etched, just with a wider range of aromas than usual. It's also quite expressive, something one can't take for granted with young Hunter Semillon.

The palate is a wonderfully textural experience. The entry is immediate and flavoursome, tight acidity helping pure citrus flavour to burst onto the tongue. Before long, a mouthfeel that is part chalk and part sandpaper begins to register, along with increasing complexity of flavour. The wine remains very focused and intense, as befits its status as a quality Semillon, but the textural influences create a feeling of generosity, if not downright drinkability, that makes the wine quite accessible as a youngster. The finish is extremely long and fine, with great delicacy to its gradual taper.

I'm quite excited about how this wine will age. I hope Tyrrell's persists with the style.

Tyrrell's
Price: $A33.33
Closure: Stelvin
Source: Retail

Lake's Folly Chardonnay 2008

23 Oct 2009

The first Lake's Folly Chardonnay under screwcap.

Characteristically Folly on the nose, with complexity aligned to a sense of balance and subtlety. It seems lighter and less opulent than the 2007, which was quite a powerhouse in relative terms. This, on the other hand, is veiled and delicate, with a similar aroma profile expressing itself on different terms. It also smells very young, with some overly bright edges that should fall back into the wine with a few more months in bottle.

The palate confirms a svelte silhouette; a taut balancing act between youthful structure and a flavour profile that aches to break free of its acidic confines. A sophisticated entry, tingling with fine acidity and a thread of classy minerality. Moderately intense peach, lychee and citrus fruit begins to emerge towards the middle palate, along with some subtle cream and caramel inputs. The mouthfeel follows a notable line, beginning with a textured burst of acid then transforming seamlessly to a glossy platform for the flavour components. It's fascinating. The after palate shows greater oak influence and a curiously leafy flavour, before the finish takes one on a peachy keen ride to deep satisfaction.

It's young and probably needs some time to show at its best, but I do love it. A light, bright expression of the Lake's Folly vineyard.

Lake's Folly
Price: $A55
Closure: Stelvin

Lake's Folly Cabernets 2007

16 Jul 2009

This label continues to fascinate me. Tasted over two evenings.

At first, an austere nose comprising cedar, sap, vanilla, and concentrated dark berry fruit. Quite classical in profile and less immediately giving than some young Follies. Still, such complexity in youth is wonderful to see, and the overall impression is of restrained, coiled power. Later, an aroma with fruit more to the fore, greater complexity and some regional influence. It's never quite plush, each note instead winding its way sinuously around the others in an elegant dance. I'm not done smelling this wine, but the bottle is almost empty.

The palate shows all the classic markers of quality: intensity, complexity, power and structure. This is a real "line and length" wine, though of course these terms don't speak to personal preference. Luckily for me, it's my kind of wine. An éclat of flavour on entry, dark berry fruit building towards an astonishingly dense, powerful middle palate. The wine tastes like a concentrate of sorts, which in the abstract might be awful but here works brilliantly, happening as it does within a decidedly medium bodied context; it's all form and elegance, and the fruit is expressed on these terms, packed with detail and complexity. Despite the intensity, there's no shred of overripe or raisined flavour. Just delicious berry fruit, mouthwatering sourness, pencil shavings and a hint of leafiness. The finish is especially long and fine, showcasing some quality oak. Although the acid and tannin are very approachable if given a few hours to breathe, the overall impression is of youthful potential. Clearly, there's sufficient fruit and structure to carry this wine through what I hope will be a positive ageing process.

Excuse me, but fuck this is good. Perhaps more austere than some I've tried, yet the style retains enormous integrity. 13% abv.

Lake's Folly
Price: $A50
Closure: Cork

Tulloch Verdelho 2008

12 Jul 2009

I opened this wine tonight because I was looking forward to drinking a 1997 Château de Besseuil. Clearly, Hunter Valley Verdelho isn't white Burgundy; the Tulloch is also different in that it's not corked to a nostril-shocking degree. After smelling the tell-tale wet cardboard on my Besseuil, I reached for the wine in my immediate vicinity least likely to be faulty. And here we are.

Perhaps not a very generous way to introduce this wine; the reality is, this label has been most consistent over the past few years, and the Hunter Valley does a solid line in Verdelho more generally. So there's some pedigree at work here.

The nose is really friendly and almost joyously perfumed, with bubblegum fruitiness alongside floral notes that remind me of my favourite outmoded "French whorehouse" fragrances. It's also very, very clean. It's a very commercial style, but in a way its flavoursome anonymity is refreshing in a sea of Sauvignon Blanc on the one hand, and Pinot Gris on the other.

The palate seems to be a step up from previous vintages, with a sense of calm sophistication that I wasn't expecting. Mostly this is due to a full, slippery mouthfeel that carries a whole fruit salad of flavour over the tongue. The acidity is notable, as it's both lively and very fine at the same time. In character, this wine is fruity with a high toned powderiness that recalls perfume and a persistent sense of levity that is, finally, quite convincing. It's not complex, intense or long, but who cares?

A really fun wine that would be perfect Summer afternoon drinking.

Tulloch
Price: $A13.30
Closure: Stelvin

Margan Semillon 2008

7 Jul 2009

After a few vintages (2005-7) of relatively forward Hunter Semillons, it's nice to open one that is clearly a leaner style, perhaps more suited to delayed gratification. As such, this wine presents a challenge to the taster in that much of its interest is projected rather than immediate. But I'm enjoying it a great deal, even if this enjoyment is related to a sense of anticipation around what it will turn into. Sort of like a slightly measured date you know will end in fantastic sex. I keep visualising how its fine structure and flavours will fill out and change, with honeyed opulence and (I hope) the slippery mouthfeel that my favourite aged Semillons have.

But back to what's in my glass now, which is by no means unenjoyable on its own youthful terms. The nose, while lean, is strikingly perfumed, with powdery citrus notes and more astringent, grass-like aromas. It actually reminds me a bit of Margaret River Semillon Sauvignon Blanc, but without the outrageous herbs and tropical fruits. There's weight, too, some juicier lemon and mandarin perhaps. All in all a fresh, vibrant nose with tremendous focus and just enough weight to encourage a sip.

The palate delivers the full promise of the nose in all respects. It's taut, with shards of intense lemon and lime piercing the tastebuds alongside more grassy flavours. Good impact and volume initially, tapering smoothly through the mouth to a finish that is ultra-lean but terribly persistent. Mouthfeel is a highlight even at this young age, with fine acidity and excellent form. It's a great framework for the wine to develop its mature flavours.

It's a cheapie ($A18) and I think it will turn into something very special. Next bottle in about five years' time, I reckon.

Margan
Price: $A18
Closure: Stelvin

Mountain X Hunter Shiraz 2007

2 May 2009

13.2% alcohol by volume. Not 13%, not 13.5%; the precision of this advertised measurement makes a discreet point.

The qualities of this wine bring any shortcomings of its 2006 sibling into relief and, although a wine deserves to be evaluated on its own merits, I can't help but make the comparison. The 2006 remains a beautiful wine, yet this improves on it in almost all respects and seems a remarkable progression from the first release. It's a more mature wine, in the sense that it shows a level of stylistic coherence and poise not quite achieved before: the Pinot component more integrated with the whole, the oak's expression quite different, the intensity and density of flavour better matched. As with the best wines, this shows as a whole, achieved piece. Of course, it has a fantastic Hunter vintage on its side, too.

Lacking the outré impact and wildness of its predecessor, this wine throws a much denser aroma from the glass. There are notes of black pepper, vibrant dark plum, brighter raspberry-like fruit, earthy minerality and some heady, whole bunch influences. I can't really tell where the Pinot ends and the Shiraz begins, which I mean as the greatest compliment, as this suggests well-judged and executed blending. The aroma's depth impresses me most of all, the kind of depth that indicates beautifully, completely ripened fruit. And somewhere in my mind, a figure of 13.2% hovers.

A firm, calm entry introduces the palate. Finely acidic, juicy flavours bubble up and begin to flood the mouth towards the middle palate. There's an array of notes here, starting with an orange-juice-like flavour (!) and ending up at spicy black pepper, stopping on the way to pick a few wild blackberries and fall into a patch of dusty brambles. It's at once bright, shapely, generous and firm, ushered along by a carpet of acidity and sweet tannins that seem to come from nowhere. There's an edginess to the structure that hints some short term bottle age, at least, will be beneficial; not surprising considering this isn't yet released. The wine seems an altogether less oak-driven style than the 2006, which creates less immediate plushness but, ironically, an impression of greater ageability. In terms of character, too, the oak is quite different, with no nougat in sight, in its place a rather more subtle sheen of sap and cedar. A notably long, sustained finish closes each mouthful on a high note. And still it hovers, the question of how such an obviously, joyously ripe Shiraz can clock in at 13.2% abv. There's a touch of magic about this wine and, to apologists for the Hunter, perhaps a bit of quiet pride too. The point is well made.

Along with the Tyrrell's 4 Acres, this is the most complete 2007 Hunter Shiraz I have tasted so far.

Mountain X
Price: $A30
Closure: Diam

Mountain X Hunter Shiraz 2006

25 Apr 2009

Despite having published a series of turgid articles (1, 2, 3, 4) arguing precisely the opposite, I think there's something deeply authentic about Australian wines that are a blend of material from several regions. For a start, many of our great winemakers (Roger Warren, Max Schubert, Maurice O'Shea and Colin Preece, for starters) often used this approach. It remains a part of our industry to this day, arguably representing the mainstream.

The intent is often to create a better wine than can be crafted from any one constituent component. For example, I've read that Colin Preece used to sometimes include some rich, ripe Rutherglen red in his elegantly spicy Great Western material to create a superior end result. There are many such examples, Grange being the most obvious and enduring. So one could pursuasively argue that a multi-regional blend vibrates with the sort of authenticity that can't be achieved by simply doing it the way they do in, say, Burgundy. Perhaps this is the Australian way.

Is this even important? Surely, what's in the glass is all that matters. Well, yes and no; to me at any rate. I'm not of the "wine is just a drink" school. I believe intent matters. And I think the degree to which a wine engages (or disengages) from a certain winemaking tradition should be considered. None of that changes what's in the bottle, but wine exists in a context and, when I taste it, the purely sensual experience intersects all these things.

Perhaps I should apologise to the creators of this wine, Gary Walsh and Campbell Mattinson, for not getting straight to the point. But, in a sense, this is the point. Well-known wine writers, Messrs Walsh and Mattinson have ostensibly created the Mountain X label not only to produce something very tasty, but to explicitly draw on various Australian winemaking traditions.

This may be the first seriously postmodern wine that I'm aware of, at least locally. The name recalls O'Shea's naming conventions. It's a blend of Hunter Valley and Yarra Valley wine. And it's a blend of Shiraz and Pinot Noir varieties. Hardly anyone does Shiraz/Pinot blends any more; it's certifiably niche, and yet fits naturally into the history of the Hunter Valley. Even the outdated nomenclature of Hunter Burgundy suggests it. So neat on so many levels.

Indeed, the conceptual side would threaten to overwhelm the wine if it weren't deliciously, obviously good. And it's so good, fully justifying its existence to those who just want to drink a quality wine. The nose for starters. First impressions are of expressively funky brambles and stalk, fully ripe and strongly suggestive of the Pinot component. There's also what I presume is an oak influence, sweetly malty and nougat-like, not too assertive in volume or aggressive in flavour. Then, some mellow berry fruit, straddling sweet and savoury. This is such a relaxed aroma profile, one that gently glows in the glass and calls you back not with a shout but with a sweetly harmonised tune.

This quiet sophistication carries through to the palate. All the obvious markers of quality are here -- intensity, length, complex flavour -- as they are in thousands of other wines. What's fascinating about this wine is the flavour profile. As with the nose, it's quite funky but not in a dirty way. In fact, this wine is a great example of how to achieve character without resorting to questionable flavours. I'm not sure I can tease it apart, but I'll give it a go. A strong thread of sour cherry. A small amount of intensely sweet, positively confectionary fruit (sort of like Redskins, but of course in a clever adult sort of way). Brambles. Nougat. I'm not sure I'm communicating things accurately (or completely, as it's quite complex) but suffice it to say it's coherent and attractive. Structurally, this is acid-driven, though delicately so, such that it's not forbidding in any way. Body is medium, with a sprightly mouthfeel that also manages to feel luxurious. The finish echoes the very beginning, with ripe, stalk-like flavours freshening the palate as sweet fruit lingers like an echo somewhere up high.

Performance art in a bottle. Serve it to non-wine nerds and enjoy both the wine and a quietly smug chuckle.

Mountain X
Price: $A30
Closure: Diam

Tower Estate Hunter Valley Chardonnay 2007

9 Apr 2009

This no doubt seems absurd to normal people, but one of the reasons why I still look forward to tasting wine after ten or so years of considered consumption is that, over time, my tastes have changed quite dramatically, and with it my opinions on a range of wine-related things. So tasting wine isn't all about that moment -- it's also about the whole journey. Chardonnay, for example. A few years ago, I found Chardonnay difficult to understand and enjoy, especially larger scale styles with a lot of winemaker input. I instinctively reached for the purity and accessibility of Riesling, and approached Chardonnay most comfortably from a Chablis angle.

Things are different now, and I'm a little obsessed with the stylistic variety one sees with Chardonnay in Australia, without even bringing Burgundy into the picture. Unlike Riesling, around which local winemakers seem to have achieved a sort of consensus, Chardonnay still seems all over the map. I can't speak for the industry, but as a consumer I see this as an ongoing enquiry into the grape, its authentic expression in various regional contexts and, perhaps, a struggle to understand what people like to drink.

These thoughts crossed my mind when I first smelled this Tower Estate Chardonnay. Juicy yellow peach and vanilla oak are the dominant aromas by some margin. It's not a completely over-the-top style though, and in fact there's a nice sense of complexity, with a bit of herb and maybe even some minerally aromas.

This nascent sense of delicacy is shattered, at least at first, by an entry that combines good impact with a thick, somewhat viscous mouthfeel. It's difficult to see past this sledgehammer-like start, but a few more considered sips reveals quite a lot of interest. To be sure, there's a core of rich, ripe peach flavour filtered through prominent oak. The mouthfeel, though, shifts from being slightly slippery and fat to nicely textured, thanks to a thread of acidity that peeks out from under the viscosity. Flavour-wise, there's a similar transition from simplicity up-front to a greater sense of sophistication on the middle palate, astringent herbs and flint adding a savoury dimension. The after palate is less intense than the entry and mid palate but widens beautifully, threads of flavour separating and fanning out well. Perhaps some alcohol heat on the finish.

To return to my original train of thought, this wine seems to sit uncomfortably between a few stylistic camps and, as a consumer, I'm not sure I am getting a clear view into the region, the grape or the intent behind the winemaking. For all that, it's a very flavoursome wine that has certainly been thought-provoking for me, at least.

Tower Estate
Price: $A35
Closure: Cork

Thomas Braemore Semillon 2008

5 Apr 2009

There have been some exciting write-ups of this wine in the blogosphere and, because I require only the slightest excuse to invest in Hunter Semillon, I ordered a few right away. This is my first bottle.

The aroma shows citrus blossom, hay, wax and soap. It combines delicacy and a sense of considerable weight. There's an underlying complexity of flavour that is unusual in young Hunter Semillon in the austere mode and, though it merely lurks in the background, this detail makes it a challenging wine to untangle.

In the mouth, an explosion of acidity backed by considerable palate weight. It's all very dry -- in a chalky, minerally sort of way -- creating an impression of high toned, detailed fruit flavours. There's really good thrust through the palate, the wine almost leaping onto the middle of the tongue. With young Hunter Semillon, it can be revealing to taste one slowly, straight from the fridge through to room temperature. This one, for example, avoids becoming fat or flabby, and retains its essential character as it warms, but adds an extra dimension of power and nuance, even a little fruit sweetness, and a slippery edge to the mouthfeel. The whole remains firm and shapely, though. Impressively, persistently long.

To my taste, this is definitely one for the long haul, and I'm glad I have a few stashed away. I'll be trying this again in about five years' time. If you're drinking it now, do as I did and try it with something moderately greasy like a potato, bacon and onion tart.

Update: on day two, all the elements are amplified, with very intense citrus flavours, a greater sense of weight and finer acidity. This is pure quality. I suspect its mouthfeel in particular will develop beautifully with time.

Thomas Wines
Price: A$25
Closure: Stelvin

Meerea Park Alexander Munro Shiraz 1999

2 Mar 2009

Pure Hunter Valley nose. It's fragrant, earthy, clean, showing hints of aged sweetness and even a bit of iron. I find the aroma very detailed, almost like a fabric that, upon looking more closely, keeps resolving to a finer and finer weave.

Very well balanced in the mouth. It's still quite fresh with good acid and a flavour profile that, for some aged complexity, remains quite primary, What I like most about this wine is the interplay of deep, substantial berry fruit with an array of high toned notes, some regional and some deriving from bottle age. There's a beguiling sour thread that runs alongside this earthy fruit and detail too. Very generous and giving, flavour floods the mouth without an ounce of heaviness. This is the kind of wine that is described as "mouth coating;" tannins appear as if from nowhere and settle in a plush layer on the tongue, coating it with sweet flavour. A tiny bit of raw bitterness registers on the finish, a slight distraction perhaps but not too much so. Lovely sweet finish.

Very much an Australian "burgundy" style. Good bottles of this should go for a little while yet, although I find for my taste it is drinking exceptionally well now.

Meerea Park
Price: $A30
Closure: Cork

Mount Pleasant Elizabeth Semillon 2004

24 Feb 2009

It's customary to bang on about this classic label in terms of its value for money. To be sure, I love that I'm able to purchase a wine held back from release until its point of maturation for under $A15 (and I paid somewhat over the odds,too). It's especially ironic that McWilliams persists with its release strategy across the Mount Pleasant range when other labels, including some premiums, are pushed out earlier and earlier, very much to the detriment of the consumer who might like to obtain at least a little enjoyment soon after purchase.

What I'm reminded of as I taste this wine, though, is that it exists on its own terms as a standard bearer of the style, and in many ways is its most important example (if one considers availability indicative of influence). You can almost always find a bottle of Elizabeth at your local bottle shop and, unlike the modern "drink now" breed of Hunter Semillons, it represents a pure view of the region's character.

Lovely golden butter colour. The nose is pure aged Semillon with a rich, tropical twist. I was tempted to describe it as atypical, but on reflection I'm just a little surprised that it's so ready and approachable right now. There's a soft fruitiness to this wine's nose that comes across as almost dessert wine in character, though the palate confirms total dryness. Perhaps some noble rot? Otherwise there's everything one might expect, with perhaps more honey and less toast than usual. Attractively fleshy.

The palate retains some spritzig that cuts through the richness of the flavour profile and contributes overall freshness and shape. Waxy lemons ride the entry and widen to a juicier expression of aged Semillon on the middle palate. Here, intensity isn't at the level one might wish, but equally there's such elegance and style. A luxurious, slippery mouthfeel vies for sensual attention with the acid structure, finally winning out as it slides along the back palate, carrying seductive flavour with it. Reasonable, softly honeyed finish.

For my taste, this is ready to rock now. I'm especially pleased that my bottle was sealed under Stelvin, so I'm slightly more confident that subsequent bottles will drink similarly to this one.

Mount Pleasant
Price: $14
Closure: Stelvin

Tulloch Private Bin Pokolbin Dry Red Shiraz 2005

22 Jan 2009

Pure Hunter on the nose: red berries squashed on a dry dirt road. Nuances of roast meat and herbs contribute complexity, and subtle oak underlines what is a piercing, relatively high-toned aroma profile. The more I smell this wine, the more I get from it; it's definitely a wine to savour through the evening rather than slam down fast.

The palate is restrained and tight, showing little evidence of a rest in bottle. Acid! Really, lots of it, keeping the fruit in check and the line in shape. Not that there's a lack of enjoyment -- in fact, within the constraints of youthful structure, the fruit is remarkably intense and detailed. Medium bodied, there are bright savoury red berries along with more herb and lightly spiced oak. Totally consistent from nose the palate. I love the way this wine feels in the mouth, with very fine acidity and equally fine, ripe tannins creating a large-scale textural underlay for the fruit. Very long finish.

Loads of quality here for sure, but it's way too young to drink right now. Reminds me a little of Chianti. I'll be cracking another in five years.

Tulloch
Price: $A40
Closure: Cork

Thomas Braemore Semillon 2006

13 Jan 2009

There is a group of small, energetic producers in the Hunter Valley exploring classic regional styles with considerable success. Thomas Wines presents a portfolio of single vineyard wines that aim to showcase the individuality of each site. I see from its website that it was established in 1997, so well over ten years ago at this stage. The last few vintages have generated quite a bit of excitement, though, especially the KISS Shiraz and this Semillon label.

Some toast quickly blows off to reveal a still-youthful aroma profile. Tangy citrus juice collides with higher toned, powdery florals. There's perhaps a bit of rubber too, but it's not especially intrusive and, for me, adds an interesting funky undertone to the aroma. Very nice to smell.

The palate is structured like a polished jewel, with consistent, linear acidity from tip to toe. Like a wedge, it starts from nothing and builds smoothly through to the finish. Along the way, intense and complex citrus notes land precisely, with good detail and definition. By the time the middle palate arrives, the mouth is awash with crisp yet full fruit flavour. Although the acidity is firm and beautifully structured, it's not forbidding, a well balanced foil to the generous fruit. Elegant, long finish that becomes quite chalky in texture.

A really excellent Semillon that should be fascinating to watch over time. Cracking value.

Thomas Wines
Price: $A25
Closure: Stelvin

Tulloch Julia Semillon 2005

12 Jan 2009

The question of how long to age wine seems, to me, one of the most vexed of all, and something about which there's rarely agreement amongst enthusiasts. Ironically, it's also one of the most reliable crutches for wine snobs wanting to throw a bit of weight around, a phenomenon to which I am, I'm ashamed to say, painfully allergic. I remember walking past a group of rather tragic-looking men at Wine Australia a few years ago as one tossed his head back triumphantly and crowed: "Of course, it won't age." As if that were the ultimate mark of a wine's quality (or at least a wine lover's discernment).

Now that I've got that off my chest, I shall relate it, somewhat tenuously, to this wine. The back label states it will benefit from "three or so years" in bottle. Quite conservative for a reserve-level Hunter Semillon, even one from a relatively forward vintage like 2005. The Tulloch website suggests eight or more years is appropriate. I guess we'll just need to be the judge. I definitely have a preference when it comes to this sort of thing, enjoying fully mature Semillon that has lost most of its primary citrus character. Vastly more experienced tasters than I have often suggested Hunter Semillon passes through an awkward, "adolescent" phase on its way to glorious maturity, and this wine, right now in any case, provides an interesting illustration of this point of view.

Not that it's unpleasant. In fact, my first sniff was very promising with definite signs of toasty bottle age and a generally forward aroma profile. Powdery citrus and honeyed lanolin predominate. I find the aroma a little blurry, as if each note isn't quite distinct and detailed enough to claim its place, but it's comfortable and generous. The palate is more telling. It pulls in all directions, youthful citrus colliding uncomfortably with the first signs of that waxy, slippery mouthfeel that is every Hunter Semillon lover's joy. There are hints of honey and toast, but they amount to little more than coming attractions, and don't yet possess the full flourish they will, no doubt, one day have. Consequently, there's a bit of a hole in the palate, not enough citrus on the one hand and not enough bottle aged flavours on the other. Honey is developing weight as the wine sits in my glass, but it's not quite there yet. Nice long finish.

This may seem like a negative tasting note, but in fact I'm quite excited. This will be a quickly-matured, deliciously easygoing wine in a few years' time, and I'm particularly looking forward to how the mouthfeel develops.

Tulloch
Price: $A28
Closure: Stelvin

Tyrrell's Vat 1 Semillon 2005

5 Nov 2008

Just checking in with a not-so-old friend tonight. They say Hunter Semillon goes through a dumb phase before emerging, butterfly-like, from its cocoon. There's nothing reticent about this wine, not now, and I suspect not ever. It's too juicy and generous a style.

A distinctive, waxy aroma that is already showing signs of bottle age. There's a sheen of toast that overlays citrus-like Semillon fruit. True to style and very clean, yet weighty and exhuberant too, which is typical of these 2005 Semillons. In the mouth, an explosion of acidity and flavour. I love the acid here, it's three dimensional and mouthfilling all on its own, if not overly sculpted. It's also well balanced with respect to fruit flavour, which has sufficient intensity to stand alongside all that structure. More waxy citrus dominates emergent but definite aged notes of honey and toast. There's so much going on here, it's actually a little cluttered on the palate, but this doesn't detract too much from one's enjoyment.

Bloody nice. It's still pretty young, but drinking very well now, and showing promising signs of bottle age that should realise over the medium term. I can't wait.

Tyrrell's

Price: $A30

Closure: Stelvin

Date tasted: November 2008

Results tagged “Hunter Valley”