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Best's Great Western Riesling 2010

1 Sep 2010

Riesling is one of those varieties we do especially well in Australia, and what's exciting for me is that, in addition to the beautiful, unique Rieslings from the Clare and Eden Valleys, there are a range of other authentic styles that are either emerging (as in those from the Canberra District) or long term classics that fly under the radar. Rieslings from Western Victoria fall into the latter category for me, so it's with some anticipation that I tasted this new release from Best's.

The 2009 was, from memory, a rather searing experience, but this wine is somewhat different. It's more elaborately perfumed for starters, all florals and talc with hints of fuller, cumquat-like fruit. One could never describe the aroma as rich, but there's a softness here that is nicely approachable. There's a streak of minerality too that runs beneath the higher toned aromas. I can see some spritzig in the glass, which isn't surprising for such a young wine.

The palate shows a similar range of flavours as the nose but, given the slightly fuller notes, is surprisingly tight, and very much in the regional mode. Entry is driven by minerality before lime blossom and citrus rind thicken the middle palate. Acidity is full-on to say the least, aided by some light spritz and a flavour profile that remains angular along the line, but offset by a nicely rounded mouthfeel on the after palate. I don't think the palate structure is hanging together quite yet and feel some time in the bottle will help things to cohere. The finish is delicate, mostly minerals and flowers.

Nice wine. Give this a few months then tuck in!

Best's Wines
Price: $A22
Closure: Stelvin
Source: Sample

Eroica Riesling 2002

18 Jul 2010

After patiently waiting seven years, I now have an answer to a simple question: Is this wine any better with age on it?

No.

What was a beautiful, moderately complex, refreshing Washington state riesling in its youth is now a moderately complex aged riesling with notes of tarry white peaches, white flowers, slate, stone, and nowhere near enough acidity to balance the wine, alas. If less successful Clare riesling tends to be not quite sweet enough when it ages, then this wine is a different side of a similar coin: although there's just enough residual sugar here to work with aged riesling notes, there isn't enough acidity to balance it out (event though I do detect some acidity here). It's just too soft, somewhat flabby, and a disappointment (although better than a Chehalem riesling from Oregon that I tried earlier in the week; that one only had six years on it, but it had sadly become flabbier than your average Outback Steakhouse patron).

Thanks to Terroir wine bar in New York, I now know that New York riesling can age. So: where are the Left Coast rieslings that can survive a decade?

Chateau Ste Michelle
Price: $20
Closure: Cork
Source: Retail

Milbrandt Vineyards Traditions Riesling 2007

13 Jul 2010

I know I'm biased because I lived there for a few years, but honestly: is there any better state than Washington when it comes to producing excellent quality wine at reasonable prices? Take this wine: it's not expensive, but it gives you pretty much everything you'd want from a glass of riesling. Beautifully pale, a straw-gold yellow, it smells of white sage, orange-blossom honey, and wet stones. It's got just enough residual sugar to please anyone who likes wine, not just wine nerds, and yet there's enough acidity there to balance it out, resulting in a lovely, lush, yet not yet over the top summer's drink. This is one of those rieslings that I'd be proud to server at Thanksgiving dinner: complex enough to provide interest to anyone paying attention, and yet straightforward enough to be liked be everyone at the table.

In short: good job.

Postscript: Judging by the winery's Web site, this is the last vintage finished with cork. I'm glad to see that.

Milbrandt Vineyards
Price: $12
Closure: Cork
Source: Retail

Howard Park Riesling 2009

30 Mar 2010

It's endlessly contested, but beauty (if it exists at all) is something I search for in wine as in most things. Perhaps that marks me as profoundly romantic, or foolish, but if something so inessential, so essentially frivolous as wine doesn't encapsulate an aesthetic of a kind, then I really do wonder the point of it at all. Hence my difficult relationship with wines that express themselves on a purely functional level - I'd rather drink beer.

Riesling is a varietal that gets me excited because it sometimes reminds me, more than any other wine, of perfume. I, along with my excellent co-author Chris, are fans of fragrance, and Riesling, in its expressive austerity, comes closest to the manufactured landscapes of man-made smells. Which is quite remarkable, really, as a commercial smell is carefully crafted, layered and assembled to be both distinctive and reproducible; one might reasonably assume a relatively haphazard aroma like that of wine would never come close. Yet it does, to my delight and endless fascination.

This wine isn't perfect, but it has a sense of construction and layered complexity that excites me. The aroma is awash with high toned, aldehydic aromas that echo the extravagant top notes of an old-fashioned, French whorehouse-type cologne. There are some deeper, lemon rind notes underneath the florals that provide an anchor of sorts, something fleshier around which more fleeting aromas can circle.

The palate is quite generous and, compared to some Howard Park Rieslings I recall from the late 1990s, much less austerely acidic. This isn't such a bad thing, especially for present drinking. There's a dramatic but cuddly entry onto the palate, followed by a wash of soft lime juice through the mid-palate. It's a bit lazy, but it's also very pretty, content to be admired for its easy charm. A tangy after palate and long finish round things off well.

Howard Park
Price: $A22
Closure: Stelvin
Source: Retail

Schloss Lieser Niederberg Helden Riesling Spätlese 2007

25 Mar 2010

I chilled this wine in preparation for last night's salmon dinner, but we didn't get around to drinking it. So it came out tonight instead, was asked to partner chicken, and did so with aplomb.

It had to blow off a fair bit of sulfur first, mind you. Quite prickly and stinky for a few minutes, leading to a much cleaner, rather candied expression of yellow fruits and citrus, along with a hint of cheese. There's a nice streak of savouriness too, minerality I guess, that cuts through the rich fruit aromas. It's not exactly slick; rather, it's a dressed up country cousin of a wine -- attractive and neat, but roundly wholesome too.

Great presence in the mouth. Entry is quite tingly and full-flavoured, leading to a middle palate of significant proportions and generous intensity. There's a degree of formlessness to the fruit flavours, which detracts a little from the precision of other components like the firmish acidity and mineral edginess. A chalky mouthfeel tightens the after palate, cleaning up a slight excess of sweetness and laziness of form, before a nice long finish fades slowly on the tongue.

Not bad at all, then. I like the interplay of sweet, almost crackly fruit with adult savouriness and delicious texture. A touch more focus would make this even better.

Schloss Lieser
Price: $A49.95
Closure: Cork
Source: Retail

Reinhold Haart Piesport Goldtröpfchen Kabinett 2007

14 Mar 2010

I've been a bit slow in tasting my stash of 2007 German Rieslings so, this evening, as I enjoy the company of a great friend, I have opened this Kabinett-level wine from the Mosel.

Opulent richness on the nose, beyond what one might expect for this ripeness level, along with some prickly sulfur and a hint of minerality. Fruit aromas are in the apricot spectrum and lack the vibrant freshness of brand new Riesling; to be expected, perhaps, given the age of the wine. I'm swirling this wine vigorously as I feel it will benefit from some air; a decant wouldn't be out of the question. There's an intriguing savouriness to the aroma profile that is becoming more prominent as the wine sits in glass; it's somewhere between pebbles and the smell of juicy, smashed weeds.

In the mouth, full-flavoured without being overly intense. The entry sneaks up on you, building towards a rather bling middle palate full of slightly simple apricot and rich lemons. There's a broadness to the flavours and structure that isn't entirely attractive, though there's plenty of flavour, so one always has a lot to latch on to. Minerality takes over through the after palate, and the flavour profile becomes a lot dryer towards the nicely textured finish. Unremarkable length.

I wish this wine were more focused and that flavours showed greater detail; as it is, a very pleasant off-dry white.

Reinhold Haart
Price: $A46.95
Closure: Cork
Source: Retail

clos Clare Riesling 2002

6 Feb 2010

Interesting going back to a wine two years or so later on in its evolution; I last drank this in November 2007, and here we are again. This time around, the nose offers up a very spare emptiness, almost the idea of wine without characteristics. It's an oddly Zen effect: a wine that is so quiet that concentrating on it leaves me very quiet indeed. There are notes of refrigerated butter, dried leaves, and wax paper on the nose; in the mouth, it's surprisingly rich and full-bodied, with the expected shocking acidity having very much subsided over the last eight years or so in the bottle. On the finish, you get a 3D suggestion of Meyer lemon tart, all lemon rind and fresh pastry, before it slowly fades out.

Again, absolutely lovely stuff here, and it doesn't seem to have changed much over the last two years... and that's a good thing because I think I still have a few more bottles. If all of the Australian rieslings I bought six years ago last this long under Stelvin, I'll be very happy indeed as there's no way I can drink most of them before they're a quarter-century old.

clos Clare
Price: US $14
Closure: Stelvin
Source: Retail

Willi Schaefer Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett 2007

27 Jan 2010

Tension is an underexplored dimension of wine that, in some respects, goes against the grain of conventional aesthetics. Balance, harmony and elegance are all buzzwords of significant currency, dictating a serene, classical conception of beauty that, I'll admit, often holds a lot of appeal for me.

I also like Italian horror films from the 1970s. And Sandra Bernhard's lips. And Michel Houellebecq's politics. All angular, difficult things that, on some level, fill me with a sense of beauty. Lately, I find myself wondering on a regular basis whether a wine that is less than composed in its structure and flow can be equally, perhaps even more, beautiful than one which is perfectly built. I know the answer is "of course it can;" articulating why is more challenging.

In some respects, this wine is all over the place. Its flavour profile leaps from sulfur to rich, aromatic fruit to crystalline minerality. Its mouthfeel lurches from spritz to unctuousness to chiselled dryness. Yet, somehow, it all comes together in the most exciting, delicious way. The aroma shows slightly blunt sulfur, the dull ache of carbonated mineral water, tart marmalade and, strangely, the smell of white pepper. It's a question mark of a nose, darting this way and that. It's also subtly alluring, redolent of the smell of spice markets that I suspect have only ever existed in the pages of books.

The palate is a rollercoaster ride. Spritz registers on entry, cutting through what becomes a rich expression of Riesling fruit on the middle palate. Mango skins and lime juice, mostly. It's delicious, if sweet, and begins to cloy just as a swell of minerality rises to temper any excess of residual sugar. I have been sipping this wine all evening, and have not remotely tired of the contrasting interplay between sweet fruit and dry flintiness. It's one of the hardest things to get right with off-dry Riesling styles, and this wine makes it seem just effortful enough to help one appreciate the achievement. A lovely, long finish.

I see this wine as a contest of sorts, between elements that clash and come together not to cancel each other out, but to give rise through conflict to something quite lovely. It's fabulous.

Willi Schaefer
Price: $A42
Closure: Stelvin
Source: Retail

Ökonomierat Rebholz Riesling Vom Buntsandstein Spätlese 2007

13 Jan 2010

I was a bit underwhelmed by this wine initially; it's quite rich and I found it a little cloying. But extended tasting reveals a complex, delicate flavour profile. There's a lot to enjoy here. Besides which, the label looks totally home made, which is fun in a low-tech way.

On the nose, slightly sulfurous with powerful fruit aromas and some floral delicacy. It has gained better balance with some air, so do let it breathe a bit or give it a good swirl, even if (like me) you're feeling thirsty. Your reward will be good complexity and increased coherence.

In the mouth, some air has again worked to its advantage, lightening the wine's feel and allowing a wide range of flavours to express themselves. Entry is quite full and immediate, with fragrant mandarin and preserved citrus peel the dominant flavours. Sweetness peaks on the middle palate, before maximum complexity asserts itself through the quite wonderful after palate, with bitter orange flavours sitting alongside sweet, small stonefruit and a streak of savoury minerality. A gentle, sweet finish of impressive length. There's no doubt this is a richly flavoured wine, full of expressive, sweet fruit and, arguably, acidity that is too restrained. I'd still prefer a more nimble middle palate and slightly cleaner finish, but I can appreciate this wine's silky, sophisticated mouthfeel -- with just a hint of soft spritz -- and overall generosity.

Not my ideal style, but a quality wine nonetheless.

Ökonomierat Rebholz
Price: $A70
Closure: Cork
Source: Retail

Forstmeister Geltz Zilliken Saarburger Rausch Kabinett Riesling 2007

15 Dec 2009

There's something uniquely intimidating about German wine labels.

Then again, this wine requires very little translation - it speaks quite clearly all on its own. This has to be one of the most drinkable -- indeed sloshable -- wines I've had this year. Half the bottle is gone and I've only just started to write this note. Thank goodness it's only 8% abv.

The nose is complex and slightly prickly, with a fruit character akin to very delicate marmalade. There's a minerality that, as odd as this might seem, comes across as fluffy, perhaps even sparkly. It's expressive in a confident but measured way, like someone who knows just how much to project their voice at a social gathering. Very sniffable, and it's evolving slowly as it sits in the glass.

Not that it gets much of an opportunity to sit there; it's so very inviting. The entry is relatively full and fruit-driven, suggesting a level of sweetness that threatens, for a moment, to overwhelm. But almost immediately, the wine finds its balance, ultra-fine acidity rising to temper the residual sugar, minerality a natural foil to flavours of fine lime marmalade. Indeed, the way this wine seems to exude delicacy while retaining fullness of weight and flavour is tantalising. The after palate especially possess a lightness of movement through to the finish that is both fascinating and pleasurable, encouraging the next sip.

This can probably take a bit of age, but I'm going to drink mine young. Delicious.

Forstmeister Geltz Zilliken
Price: $A40
Closure: Cork
Source: Retail

Flaxman Riesling 2009

4 Dec 2009

The small Flaxman estate vineyard is located in the Barossa ranges, in the same area as various renowned vineyards like Heggies, Karra Yerta and Pewsey Vale. In amongst mature Semillon and Shiraz are the forty five year old Riesling vines from which this wine is made. You'd expect, with this pedigree, definitive Eden Riesling. And so it is.

Intense mineral, gravel notes establish the aroma profile, which goes on to express floral and lime rind characters as well. There's a clear articulation of top, middle and base notes here, each working in concert with, eventually blurring the lines between, each other. Its character, while complex and clear, is also soft, preferring to communicate in soothing tones. I associate a certain coherence with superior wines; they express singularly as opposed to as a collection of discrete smells. This wine possesses such coherence, and is quite thrilling in its clarity.

The palate shows great balance between fine, fresh acidity and fruit weight. Indeed, the citrus notes are surprisingly generous compared to a nose heavier on the minerality. On entry, flavour skates briskly over the tongue, supported by beautiful acidity and a mouthfeel that seems ultra-refined, indeed almost slippery. The middle palate is all about ripe, fresh limes, cleanly expressed. There are also some flowers and slate that travel along the edges, and which grab centre stage through the after palate. A high toned, pithy finish goes on for quite a while.

It's just so effortlessly stylish, this wine, like a natural beauty who looks great in just about anything. I don't mind saying I'll be putting in my order for a few bottles.

Flaxman Wines
Price: $A25
Closure: Stelvin
Source: Sample

Kirrihill Slate Creek Vineyard Riesling 2009

4 Dec 2009

A single vineyard wine from the Watervale sub-region of the Clare Valley. And a really true example of this style of Riesling too, very much in a drink now idiom but recognisably regional all the same.

The nose shows swirly, shabby chic aromas of old lace, freshly squeezed lemon juice and ripe white flowers. There's also a hint of talcum powder verging on minerality, which adds a nice lilt to the aroma profile. Taken as a whole, the nose is both relatively complex and totally accessible, signalling a wine made for easy, but not braindead, enjoyment.

On entry, acid is restrained in volume yet robust in texture, overlaid with lemon juice notes that are less intrusively sour than some. This combination carries linearly through to a mid-palate that widens only marginally, holding its tight, clear line. Intensity of fruit is moderate, which suits the style, and it's here that a range of flavour complexities emerge. Pebbles and crusher dust sit in the minerality camp, while the fruit turns towards a lemon rind-like astringency. Texture is even and a little gravelly through the after palate, and the finish is long, tapering elegantly away to nothing.

A solid wine, then, with plenty of character and made in a style that's very approachable right now. Not a bad Friday night choice.

Kirrihill
Price: $A19.95
Closure: Stelvin
Source: Sample

Shaw Laughter Series Riesling 2009

1 Dec 2009

One of the great things about Riesling is the high quality frequently obtainable at lower price points. Unlike with, say, Pinot Noir, a $15 RRP doesn't automatically equal diminished expectations. Indeed, I've had some cracking Rieslings over the years that have come in well under the $15 mark. All of which is to suggest my approach to this wine is not at all one of patient generosity or pre-emptive forgiveness.

Happily, this is a really good, quite delicious Canberra Riesling. The regional emphasis on flowers, talc and stone is there in abundance, coupled to rich preserved lemon fruit notes, edging very slightly towards pineapple. Aromas are a little blocky, but they present coherently and there's a vivaciousness to the aroma profile that is most pleasing.

The palate is equally fun, with a well balanced presence in the mouth. The entry is slow to take off, but builds to a middle palate of mineral and citrus fruit notes in equal measure. The fruit character is straightforward, with perhaps a hint of mandarin, and has surprising persistence. It's a bit simple, but so are many enjoyable things. The after palate is fruit driven, though with a drying undercurrent, and the length here is remarkable given the modest price tag and stylistic aspirations of the wine - it seems to go on and on.

A wine that hits the drinkability bullseye rather than aiming for ultimate refinement or complexity. I like it a lot. Should be noted also the winery gives $50 of each case purchase to Camp Quality.

Shaw Vineyard Estate
Price: $A15
Closure: Stelvin
Source: Sample

Shaw Isabella Riesling 2009

29 Nov 2009

Australia is world-renowned for its amazing, razor-sharp dry Riesling styles. So of course there's currently a resurgence in off-dry Riesling. I jest - I think it's great that producers are experimenting with styles, and it will be interesting to see if some regions and sites are better expressed with some residual sugar.

To this wine then, a Canberra Riesling from Shaw Vineyard Estate and, according to the label, both Reserve and Handpicked. I'm feeling a warm glow already (or is that just the Verdelho from before?). I must admit I failed to read the back label before tasting, so was surprised at the rich, confected fruit aromas that emerged from the glass. A quick sip confirmed this as a decidedly off-dry style. The aroma profile comprises fake banana flavouring, candied pineapple and a range of other lively notes. It's quite expressive and fun, though whether you will warm to its lolly store bent is a question of personal preference. It may also be showing its youth, and indeed some time in glass has seen the more aggressively confected aspects of the aroma blow off, to reveal fresher fruit versions of pineapple and citrus notes, and some more floral, perhaps even mineral, dimensions too.

The palate is richly flavoured, with more candied fruits and a refreshing acid line. In an off-dry Riesling, the balance of acid, sugar and fruit intensity seems to be of the essence; here, there's perhaps slightly too much sugar relative to the character and assertiveness of the acid, which translates to a broadness on the mid-palate. On entry, though, a lively and very fruit-driven experience, with sweetly preserved fruits and bubbly acidity moving things through to the mid-palate. Here, the palate widens and becomes really quite generous, almost relaxed, teetering on the edge of simplicity. A twist of phenolic bitterness on the after palate pulls things back into line, and balances the riper tendencies of the flavour profile, bringing a welcome freshness to the wine. Pretty decent, fresh finish.

A worthy attempt at a more "German" Riesling style, and one that has improved after several hours. From a regional perspective, I enjoy the delicate floral, talc-like flavour profile of many dry Canberra Rieslings, and it's an open question for me (for now) whether this character adapts itself well to a moderately off-dry style. It's certainly there in this wine, but its very delicacy sits uneasily against sweet fruit notes. I should add this wine responded exceptionally well to a robust pasta dish, its more candied fruit tendencies tamed and its structure more than adequate.

Shaw Vineyard Estate
Price: $A28
Closure: Stelvin
Source: Sample

Schafer-Frohlich Bockenauer Felseneck Dry Riesling 2007

27 Nov 2009

I bought a selection of 2007 German Rieslings the other day from Eurocentric and will taste my way through them over the coming weeks. This is the first, and hopefully a sign of things to come.

Lovely nose; what strikes one first is the richness of fruit, sort of tropical and apricot-like in equal measure, and sufficiently assertive that it initially masks the floral, mineral aspects of the aroma profile. Some more sniffing reveals the full extent of this wine's complexity, which is quite impressive and very well balanced. Once it has time to settle in the glass, it's simply a wall of quite luscious, detailed aromatics; something to sniff repeatedly for sure.

The palate is equally rich, without being especially intense. Again, the vibe here is balanced, a number of elements combining with good harmony. The entry is sharp and glossy, like a well-honed Wusthof knife, acid cutting a clear path to the middle palate. While the fruit is quite generous in flavour profile, with just a hint of apparent residual sweetness, it's curiously restrained and allows space for a range of flavours of a more pebbly nature to share the stage. The acid is lovely; prominent and shapely, a bit grainy even, without feeling coarse or out of control. Honeysuckle and mineral flavours flow through the after palate, whisked along briskly by an acid structure that here, more than at any other point, contributes sourness to the flavour profile. Talc-like aromatics on the finish with a squeeze of grapefruit for good measure.

Delicious wine on its own, and an admirable partner to awesome fish and chips from a renowned corner store down the road. I feel rather spoiled on this Friday evening. Totally worth the dosh.

Schafer-Frohlich
Price: $A60
Closure: Cork
Source: Retail

Grosset Polish Hill Riesling 2009

4 Nov 2009

Sometimes I have trouble getting into this wine but no such problems tonight. It's a cracker.

Intense, racy bath salt-like aromas overlay a good deal of floral, mineral notes and some fine citrus rind. It's incredibly complex for a young Riesling which, like other simply made white styles, can seem simple in youth. Not this one, though; it exudes sophistication and confidence, not through volume or excess, but simply by being classically well-built from tip to toe. I'm sniffing this wine again and again and there's more to extract each time.

The palate is, if anything, even more impressive, as it adds great thrust and length to the nose's proportioned, complex aroma profile. It's a curious thing -- intensity that sings with minerality rather than fruit flavour -- I love it. The entry is immediate thanks mostly to some pretty assertive acidity, and it all builds from here to a middle palate of great shape and flinty texture. There's an edge of sweetness that softens the relatively austere flavour profile, and this smidge of soft focus makes this Polish Hill more approachable than some others I have tried. Swift movement through the after palate to a reverberant finish of snazzy length.

Many critics tend to rate the Polish Hill above the Watervale, and in this instance I'd have to agree. What a great Riesling.

Grosset
Price: $A39
Closure: Stelvin
Source: Retail

Grosset Springvale Riesling 2009

3 Nov 2009

Née Watervale.

Amongst the many things for which I enjoy Riesling, one of the recurring highlights of a particularly good one is the directness with which it communicates its quality. Personally, I find quality one of the less tangible aspects of wine, intersecting (and at times contradicting) other considerations like drinkability and style. Somehow, though, I find with Riesling that an increase in quality tends to align with an increase in my enjoyment, and I think part of it is the somewhat facile satisfaction I obtain from being able to clearly grasp what makes a good Riesling so good. At least, I flatter myself this ability.

Take this Grosset wine, which is bloody good. It's complex, and as I sniff the wine and take in this complexity, I remind myself that's all there is. No oak, apparently straightforward winemaking; it's just fruit character shining forth. This is a case, surely, of minimalist winemaking enhancing terroir (not, I believe, something to be regarded as a truism, but that's another post for another time). Though less exhuberant than the 2008 vintage, there's an obvious family resemblance, with a range of high toned notes overlaying deeper, almost tropical fruits and detailed citrus aromas. Great balance, interest and style.

The palate shows the youthful impact for which this label is known, placing relatively full, rich fruit in a framework of textured, slatey acidity and etched complexity. The entry is like a wedge; it starts from nothing and works its way confidently to a bright middle palate filled with flavour, beautiful texture and the kind of drape normally reserved for high end couture. It's the facted angularity of its architecture as much as any other, more prosaic dimension that satisfies me here. And, to be hyper-critical, the intellectualism associated with this style might get in the way of purely sensual appreciation. I tend to think, though, that bottle age might cure any such faults, if one were to find them distracting. Personally, I love that it drags me to a higher level of appreciation as a taster. If only more wines held drinkers in such high regard.

Grosset
Price: $A31
Closure: Stelvin
Source: Retail

Tesco Finest Great Southern Riesling 2002

17 Oct 2009

"This wine will improve if carefully stored for up to 3 years from purchase," it says on the back of the bottle... and I bought it something like six and a half years ago. Whoops. Thankfully, though, it doesn't seem to be a problem, although the nose is definitely full on kero funky and somewhat of a shock. It's also got notes of grapefruit rind, minerals, and honey, but mostly it just smells kind of bad in that "yeah, I know, but it's going to taste better than it smells, right?" kind of way.

Does it? Well... yes, but it's beyond pretty much anything I've tasted before. If anything, it tastes like cosmetic jars from an antique store; there's a hint of face cream or jasmine or something here, but in just barely perceptible amounts. Still, though, there's just enough sugar (or the perception of sweetness) to mix with the strenuous acidity and offer up something that is thankfully still appealing. Not particularly complex, and not particularly aromatic, it's still ticking along just fine at this point and makes a great accompaniment to hummus or a Portuguese octopus stew.

Howard Park
Closure: Stelvin

Clonakilla Riesling 2009

15 Oct 2009

I tremble whenever a Clonakilla newsetter arrives, as much at the anticipation of its new releases as their unfortunate effect on my wallet. Yes, I'm somewhat of a junkie. I have especially enjoyed the Riesling over many vintages and consider Canberra Riesling in general one of our more interesting regional expressions of this variety.

To this fresh one, then, the nose seems quite typical at first, with floral, bath salt-like aromas, the strange of impression of chalk dust and very little of the full-throttle citrus juice that can characterise this variety from some other Australian regions. It's actually quite piercing; almost aggressive, more so than I recall of previous vintages. The exhuberance of youth, perhaps, or something more essential? I'm not sure. Certainly, it's settling a little in the glass and becoming less insistent, though also a tad indistinct too.

The palate is surprising because there's a big whack of pineapple juice on the middle palate that isn't at all signalled on the nose. But I'm getting ahead of myself. A clean entry, slippery and pleasing. Quickly, that intense sharpness from the nose (sulphur? slate? minerality?) asserts alongside surprisingly full tropical fruit and leaner citrus flowers. There's good thrust through the after palate, with really delicious fruit flavours framed by savouriness and powdery texture. Indeed, texture is a highlight with this wine, roughing up the tongue with fine yet prominent acidity. A lovely, citrussy finish of good length.

This strikes me as somewhat atypical, at least according to my dodgy palate memory. It's flavoursome, textural and lively; it's also a bit disjointed, strident and, ultimately, poses more questions than it answers. I have a few of these in the cellar and will open another bottle in, say, a year's time.

Clonakilla
Price: $A25
Closure: Stelvin

Karra Yerta Eden Valley Riesling 2009

22 Sep 2009

The Karra Yerta vineyard has a flavour that is partly Eden Valley but otherwise all its own. This is the third vintage I've tasted and there's a striking family resemblance between the wines. The 2008 was full and soft, communicating a luxuriant plushness while remaining in the mainstream of Eden style. The 2005 was austere and acidic, clearly built for the long haul, and what one might consider a more typical wine of the region. This most recent edition is different again, yet its core of pastel, shimmering fruit is all Karra Yerta, clearly showing the terroir of this special vineyard.

A most interesting range of aromas -- watermelon, apples, lychee, cut grass, spice, lemon -- seem to glisten and evolve from the glass like shiny scented pillows. There's excellent complexity and cohesiveness for such a young Riesling; this is absolutely ready to drink now as a striking aromatic white, although I'm quite sure it could take a good deal of bottle age if one likes that sort of thing.

A wallop of acidity announces the palate in no uncertain terms; this is definitely a young Riesling, but it's not undrinkably tart as some can be. Instead, its fine texture and delicious sourness present alongside quite rich, full fruit flavours of a similar character to the nose, but for more prominent apple and lemon flavours. The middle palate is strikingly intense, yet what I like most is the shape and flow. Generous flavour is contained within a couture-like silhouette that cuts a dashing figure through the mouth. Everything's in line, flowing as it should, with perfect control. An intriguing note, savoury and spicy in equal measure, kicks through the after palate before a sour, delicious finish of very impressive length rounds it all off. Indeed, this seems to go on and on for ages.

I don't pretend to be an objective taster by any means, so although this is a quality wine made by a passionate producer in tiny quantities, it all comes to nought, because drinking this is like falling in love. Nothing else matters.

Karra Yerta Wines
Price: $A25
Closure: Stelvin

Results tagged “Riesling”