Results tagged “Semillon”

The Lovedale label is dear to my heart. Not only did the 95 turn me on the peculiar waxy mouthfeel that aged Hunter Semillon can sometimes show, but the 96 was the first wine I wrote up on Full Pour. 

Some bottles I look at and presume, for one reason or another, I won't be writing up. This - being a blend of which I'm not terribly fond - was one of them. But drinking it now, nicely chilled, I'm finding it really well made, so thought I'd jot down a quick note.

Tyrrell's has long made a habit of highlighting single vineyards in its Semillon porfolio, and this label continues the tradition. Small batch (250 dozen), old vines (1908), sandy soils; it oozes cred simply for what it is. Tyrrell's has gone a step further here and vinified the grapes in a deliberately old fashioned manner, sending things off the authenticity scale entirely. Indeed, it's the kind of wine that is so tantalising on paper, one half suspects it will be a disappointment in the mouth.

Yesterday, I met up with an old friend in Viña del Mar, and much to my surprise he delivered a stunningly beautiful wedding present: Chilean wine, palm syrup, peaches, and chocolates. Wonderful stuff - and now my task is to drink at least four bottles of the wine over the next 48 hours because if I don't I'll have so much luggage that I can't board the flight to Calama on Wednesday. Yikes! Thankfully, this is going to be a very easy task.

There appears to be a very, very light carbonation to the wine; at the bottom of the glass are tiny bubbles (if you're a Don Ho fan, feel free to sing along about now) and there's a very light spritziness on the tongue. The color is bright and clean; it's only on the nose where it gets interesting. It's a very savory wine, reminding me more of good Burgundy than white Bordeaux somehow, with a very slight sulfury note mixed in with yeasty bread and an appealing lemony note. My favorite thing about this wine is the slippery, rich, full palate that is wonderfully textural and mouthfilling; there's a slight spiciness to the finish with sprightly acidity as well.  It may have smelled like Burgundy, but it's definitely more like a white Graves, wet stones and pastry cooked with lemon rind and cream, but also that spiciness that really makes it special.

All in all this is good stuff (and to me personally, it's also a reminder to stop drinking single varietal wines all of the time; blends like this seem much more complex and interesting, don't they?). Thanks, Felipe, for the bottle - I'm looking forward to the next ones!

After a few vintages (2005-7) of relatively forward Hunter Semillons, it's nice to open one that is clearly a leaner style, perhaps more suited to delayed gratification. As such, this wine presents a challenge to the taster in that much of its interest is projected rather than immediate. But I'm enjoying it a great deal, even if this enjoyment is related to a sense of anticipation around what it will turn into. Sort of like a slightly measured date you know will end in fantastic sex. I keep visualising how its fine structure and flavours will fill out and change, with honeyed opulence and (I hope) the slippery mouthfeel that my favourite aged Semillons have.

Really typical Barossa Semillon aroma, showing quite fleshy fruit notes of citrus and perhaps pear, plus some composting hay and a hint of honeyed age. The aroma profile is relatively thick and even, if not hugely expressive. In the mouth, a lot more forward, thanks partly to an acid structure especially well balanced for approachability. The acid is very fine and even, delivering good impact without being forbidding. A big wash of flavour starts right at the tip of the tongue and widens out towards the middle palate. This is a relatively weighty wine, and its structure, whilst present, is counterbalanced by a juicy mouthfeel that's all about flavoursome drinking. There are definite indications of bottle age, and these nascent flavours add some complexity to primary flavours of citrus, sweet hay and soap. The overall effect is vividly autumnal and recalls slowly decomposing leaves. It's also a bit rustic and unrefined, in the best possible way.

There have been some exciting write-ups of this wine in the blogosphere and, because I require only the slightest excuse to invest in Hunter Semillon, I ordered a few right away. This is my first bottle.

The aroma shows citrus blossom, hay, wax and soap. It combines delicacy and a sense of considerable weight. There's an underlying complexity of flavour that is unusual in young Hunter Semillon in the austere mode and, though it merely lurks in the background, this detail makes it a challenging wine to untangle.

In the mouth, an explosion of acidity backed by considerable palate weight. It's all very dry -- in a chalky, minerally sort of way -- creating an impression of high toned, detailed fruit flavours. There's really good thrust through the palate, the wine almost leaping onto the middle of the tongue. With young Hunter Semillon, it can be revealing to taste one slowly, straight from the fridge through to room temperature. This one, for example, avoids becoming fat or flabby, and retains its essential character as it warms, but adds an extra dimension of power and nuance, even a little fruit sweetness, and a slippery edge to the mouthfeel. The whole remains firm and shapely, though.  Impressively, persistently long.

To my taste, this is definitely one for the long haul, and I'm glad I have a few stashed away. I'll be trying this again in about five years' time. If you're drinking it now, do as I did and try it with something moderately greasy like a potato, bacon and onion tart.

Update: on day two, all the elements are amplified, with very intense citrus flavours, a greater sense of weight and finer acidity. This is pure quality. I suspect its mouthfeel in particular will develop beautifully with time.

It's customary to bang on about this classic label in terms of its value for money. To be sure, I love that I'm able to purchase a wine held back from release until its point of maturation for under $A15 (and I paid somewhat over the odds,too). It's especially ironic that McWilliams persists with its release strategy across the Mount Pleasant range when other labels, including some premiums, are pushed out earlier and earlier, very much to the detriment of the consumer who might like to obtain at least a little enjoyment soon after purchase. 

There is a group of small, energetic producers in the Hunter Valley exploring classic regional styles with considerable success. Thomas Wines presents a portfolio of single vineyard wines that aim to showcase the individuality of each site. I see from its website that it was established in 1997, so well over ten years ago at this stage. The last few vintages have generated quite a bit of excitement, though, especially the KISS Shiraz and this Semillon label.

Some toast quickly blows off to reveal a still-youthful aroma profile. Tangy citrus juice collides with higher toned, powdery florals. There's perhaps a bit of rubber too, but it's not especially intrusive and, for me, adds an interesting funky undertone to the aroma. Very nice to smell. 

The palate is structured like a polished jewel, with consistent, linear acidity from tip to toe. Like a wedge, it starts from nothing and builds smoothly through to the finish. Along the way, intense and complex citrus notes land precisely, with good detail and definition. By the time the middle palate arrives, the mouth is awash with crisp yet full fruit flavour. Although the acidity is firm and beautifully structured, it's not forbidding, a well balanced foil to the generous fruit. Elegant, long finish that becomes quite chalky in texture.

A really excellent Semillon that should be fascinating to watch over time. Cracking value.

Just checking in with a not-so-old friend tonight. They say Hunter Semillon goes through a dumb phase before emerging, butterfly-like, from its cocoon. There's nothing reticent about this wine, not now, and I suspect not ever. It's too juicy and generous a style.

One from the cellar.

Shy nose with hints of cream, astringent herb, grapefruit and a touch of tropical richness too. I'm smelling an aged dimension to the aroma profile in the form of light toastiness, but it's still quite primary. A pretty, complex whisper of a nose.

The palate shows greater generosity. A cool, crisp entry that bristles with fresh acid texture. You'd never know this wine had already spent several years in bottle. Steely acidity carries astringent citrus flavours through the mid-palate without significant pause. Here, mouthfeel shows a softer, creamier face, without subverting the wine's significant structure. Intensity is quite impressive, and there's some complexity of flavour too, although it's all quite austere in profile and, consequently, challenging to describe in terms other than "flint" or "mineral." A pleasant lift through the after palate precedes a long, clean finish. It's in these last stages that some fruit weight finally appears, and it is of the grapefruit and citrus pith variety.

The last bottle I tried, perhaps two years ago, showed quite differently. It was more generous, softer and quite luscious, and the winemaking treatment (battonage, etc) was clearly evident. I wonder if this wine is going through a phase, or perhaps there's some bottle variation at play? On the basis of this example, I'd be looking to check on its progress in two to three years' time. I don't have a lot of experience with this label, though, so others' insights are welcome.

Moss Wood
Price: $A30
Closure: Stelvin
Date tasted: September 2008

Anecdotally, Sauvignon Blanc, alone and in blends, seems to be the quaffer of choice for casual work lunches and similar occasions. It's not hard to see why; flavours are for the most part easily discerned and unchallenging. There are some quite lovely versions of the "classic dry white" blend. The Grosset springs immediately to mind, and the Margaret River style seems especially prized by the lunchtime crowd. Most examples, though, seem to express more modest vinous aspirations. This one, from McLaren Vale based winery Tatachilla, is made from fruit sourced across South Australia. 

Bottle variation has been an unfortunate hallmark of the lesser Mount Pleasant wines, something the use of Stelvin closures may ameliorate. This 1999 Semillon, though, is bottled under old-fashioned cork, and my experience of it has been up and down. The last bottle, opened perhaps two weeks ago, was dumb and lifeless. I thought I'd try my luck again tonight, and I think this bottle is more representative of the wine's quality and character.

Lovely golden colour. The nose was initially a bit muted, with a little prickly sulfur. Closer to room temperature, and the wine is showing a range of elegant aromas, such as beeswax and a lightly herbal astringency, perhaps some buttery softness too. Still quite fresh at nearly ten years of age.

The palate shows remnants of the spritzy acidity often observed in young Semillon, but this soon gives way to a waxy, slippery mouthfeel that lovers of aged Hunter Semillon will no doubt adore. This wine's line is akin to a wedge that starts tight and widens progressively through to an expansive finish. On the way, classic notes of sweet honey and lanolin caress the tongue, along with some citrus-like reminders of youth. There are also hints of caramel and butter, and in some respects one could be forgiven for thinking this is a Chardonnay. Palate weight also accumulates towards the after palate, to the point where it's really quite mouthfilling and almost chewy. Good length.

This wine is just starting to show at its best and, although not the most complex or most intense, shows brilliant typicité. Bloody good value.

Mount Pleasant
Price: $A12
Closure: Cork
Date tasted: July 2008

I can't remember why I decided to buy at least four bottles of this and place them in the cellar. It must have shown promise on release. Either that, or I found it at a ridiculously low price and made an impulse purchase. It's been known to happen. Anyway, here we are eight years later and I think it's time I checked on its progress. 

Still relatively pale in colour, showing hints of richer hay in amongst the fresh green hues. Mercifully, not corked. Subtle aromas of sharp citrus with a touch of the aged honey character that one anticipates in an aged Hunter Semillon. But it's hardly a full-blown aged aroma profile. The palate is disappointingly dilute, and I don't know whether the wine is going through a "phase," or if it lacks sufficient intensity of flavour to become a satisfying mature style. Entry shows remnants of the spritzy acidity of a young Hunter Semillon, but this quickly trails off to a smoother, slightly waxy mouthfeel. Again, there are hints of the aged flavour profile; honey, lanolin, beeswax, etc; but there's also easygoing citrus attributable to an easygoing youth. It's all attractive enough, but somehow watery too, and I found myself reaching for flavour but never getting enough to feel satisfied.

I'm not sure if I'll bother leaving the rest of the stash to mature further. Well, maybe one as an experiment. The rest, I'll drink soonish and enjoy what is an easy quaffing style that doesn't ask a lot of the drinker (and doesn't give too much in return).

Brokenwood
Price: $A20ish
Closure: Cork
Date tasted: June 2008

You see this everywhere. It's easy to find in pretty much any bottle shop fridge and turns up with alarming regularity at BBQs, Summer lunches, etc. Of course, that doesn't mean it's good or bad -- it does, though, mean you're probably going to have a glass or two of it sometime soon...

More than those from some other regions, Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc blends from the Margaret River can tread a fine line between fresh astringency and overbearing grassiness. They don't usually suffer, though, from a personality deficit. So smelling and tasting this wine came as somewhat of a surprise. It's pretty on the nose -- ultra clean, a bit tropical, a bit herbal. But lacking in intensity and character.

The palate is all quite correct, with relatively soft acidity (for the style) that enters freshly and pushes lightly tropical fruit along with zip. There's not much grass or herb here; it's definitely an easygoing, unchallenging flavour profile. The biggest surprise for me is the lack of intensity of flavour. It tastes almost watery on the mid-palate, and this, combined with its flavour profile, turns the wine into a bit of a non-event. It's just not especially interesting. For the price, I would expect more.

Vasse Felix
Price: A$18
Closure: Stelvin
Date tasted: March 2008

Having tasted a couple of other current vintage Private Bin whites in previous weeks, I was interested to see how the flagship Vat 1 fared in 2007. The Belford and Stevens wines seemed broader and more approachable than usual.

Very pale with excellent clarity. The nose is an interesting mixture of high toned, almost powdery citrus fruit with waxed pears and more generous tropical notes. Good complexity. It's quite expressive and certainly attractive; whether it's especially "typical" is another question. The entry is gentle and builds, both structurally and in terms of intensity, towards the mid-palate. Here we have a forward mix of lemon/lime notes with hints of the tropical fruit shown on the nose. Acidity is certainly lively and it provides really good flow through the palate, but stops short of the sort of searingly intense structure seen in Hunter Semillons of a more classical bent. Flavour extends well into the after palate, and the wine's length is extremely impressive.

Rather than criticise this wine for what it isn't, I'll celebrate its pleasures: here we have an approachable, sophisticated young wine of good structure and length. As it sat in the glass, I could detect hints of the honeyed pleasure to come, but I'd say this is a medium term cellaring proposition at most -- nothing should stop you enjoying this wine now.

Tyrrell's
Price: $A35
Closure: Stelvin
Date tasted: February 2008

As I was handed a plastic picnic cup full of Verdelho yesterday, I reflected that not all wines are intended to demand the full attention of the drinker. A lot of wines are crafted and marketed for their lifestyle value. The new Lindemans "Early Harvest" range is a good example. From what I can tell, it's the vinous equivalent of low carb beer, "30% less alcohol, 30% less calories" trumpeted proudly on the front label and through the back label text. Fair enough, I could stand to lose a kilo or ten, and I do enjoy lower alcohol wines for their practicality.

Very pale green colour, good clarity. The nose is of adequate intensity and presents simple aromas of passionfruit, tropical florals and a bit of capsicum. Nothing challenging, but at least it smells of something pretty. On entry, two things become apparent: there's not much acid, and the lower alcohol is presumably due, in part, to a moderate amount of residual sugar. These two factors create a rather flabby experience on the middle palate, the sugar propping up and adding body to the wine's dilute aromatic fruit and slightly grassy flavour profile. The after palate slips away to an interesting, not entirely pleasant, chalky finish.

I'm not sure the value in considering this wine in terms of absolute quality, as it will be chosen, I suspect, on the basis of its other attributes. Fair enough. Just don't think about it too hard as you're drinking. If this wine works well in the market, I wonder if it's naive for me to suggest the time for quality off-dry Riesling styles could be near? I wish.

Lindemans
Price: $A14
Closure: Stelvin
Date tasted: January 2008

Is there anything more terminally daggy than the Semillon Chardonnay blend? Perhaps the mullet, but even that seems to enjoy periods of resurgent popularity. Which is a shame, because the mullet really does deserve a good, long rest. This wine, however, is bloody nice. According to the back label, the Chardonnay and Semillon were separately vinified, then blended prior to bottling. 

One of the lovely things about Hunter Semillon is that it's tremendously revealing of vintage conditions and site, something it has in common with Riesling. It's interesting to compare this single vineyard wine with the Stevens tasted the other day. Both quite different in character.