The Wine Society Exhibition Range Saint-Aubin 2006

My Dad proudly whipped out his wine atlas to show me where this wine was made: just around the corner from Le Montrachet. Cool. So how’s the wine? Well, I think we’re both a little disappointed by this; he likes his Burgundy a bit more on the voluptuous side, and me, well, I don’t mind lighter, ethereal Burgundy, but this is every so slightly too simple.That being said, I get a hint of iodine on the nose, with pretty cherry flavors and the slightest hint of green tannins. Brightly acidic, the mouthfeel tends towards thinness but not overly so; it’s very light in the mouth with somewhat vapid flavors, and yet the tannins creep in solidly towards the finish, ending it all with a heavy-handed abrupt halt. Even so, it’s not a bad wine, just a sort of baseline wine: most of the notes of what make Burgundy Burgundy are here, albeit very slightly. If you strain your nose, you can pick out the ghost of earth and soil, but whether or not it’s because it’s actually there or because you don’t want to feel disappointed, I’m not sure.Good wine, not bad value considering the geographic provenance, and yet I can’t help but think most of us would be happier with a good Chilean pinot noir, even.The Wine Society
Price: £12
Closure: Cork
Source: Retail

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