So I'm back in Brisbane but I keep buying New Zealand wines. Go figure. It's New Year's Eve here and we're having baked salmon, so I thought some Central Otago Pinot Noir might be the go.
Instantly recognisable as Central Otago Pinot, with that distinctive sweet/sour plum fruit character quite evident on the nose. This wine has a depth and subtlety, though, lacking in many other Pinots from the region. It's no simple fruit bomb. The fruit itself, although clearly varietal and of its region, is quite complex, with subtle citrus peel and floral notes contributing to the flavour profile. There are also smoky, reductive edges that add interest and a sense of sophistication.
The entry is sharp and linear, leading to a structured middle palate that showcases savoury fruit and astringent sourness in equal measure. There's little easy fruit sweetness here. Instead, a complex array of beguiling fruit flavours sit atop a toasty oak frame, extending well into an intense, slightly sweet after palate. Palate weight is medium bodied, but the wine's structure is quite prominent at this stage, creating an impression of greater size. Really quite acidic, not unpleasantly so for my taste, but pretty bold for sure. Tannins are equally assertive, and carry the wine through a finish that is long and satisfying, though youthful and raw also.
Those who enjoy Central Otago pinot would do well to seek out this wine. It's clearly an excellent wine, though those with patience are well advised to leave it alone for a few months or years before tasting.
Price: $A57
Closure: Stelvin
Date tasted: December 2007 (just)
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