René Geoffroy a Cumières Premier Cru Cuvée Selectionée Brut 1997

A lovely gift from a lovely friend, we thought this wine would be ideal for a lazy New Year's Day afternoon. René Geoffroy is a small grower/producer that makes an interesting range of sparkling and table wines.

Energetic mousse that dissipates quickly, leaving a relatively fine, sparse bead. Pale, almost watery gold in colour, excellent clarity. Initially, the nose showed overpowering yeast notes alongside subtle aromas of cut apple and tobacco smokiness. With time, the nose has gained balance between its elements, though it's still on the yeasty side. Generous and fresh. The wine's entry is striking, immediately introducing a spritzy mouthfeel and the beginnings of generous cut apple fruit flavour, which continues without interruption to the middle palate. This is a forward, relatively full bodied Champagne that zings around the mouth with savoury astringence and good intensity of flavour. Although it doesn't hold back as a style, it's not a clumsy wine and retains a sense of poise at all times. But it's exuberant and fun and doesn't demand your full concentration, despite its evident quality. Intense, pristine flavour continues in a focused line through the after palate on to a lingering, satisfying finish.

If only all gifts were this rewarding.

Price: Gift
Closure: Cork
Date tasted: January 2008

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