Tyrrell's Vat 63 Chardonnay Semillon 2007
Is there anything more terminally daggy than the Semillon Chardonnay blend? Perhaps the mullet, but even that seems to enjoy periods of resurgent popularity. Which is a shame, because the mullet really does deserve a good, long rest. This wine, however, is bloody nice. According to the back label, the Chardonnay and Semillon were separately vinified, then blended prior to bottling.
A bright, clear green-tinged straw colour. The nose is expressive, showing a mixture of cut grass and more rounded notes reminiscent of yellow nectarines and perhaps mangoes. It's quite heady and full, but retains freshness due to the green notes. There's also some underlying creaminess and vanilla oak that softens the aroma.
Entry is focused and flavoursome, with fruit flavour starting on the tip of the tongue and showing linear progressing through to the middle palate. This isn't fat or unstructured at all, despite a slightly soft flavour profile and medium body. Fruit flavour is initially Chardonnay dominant and of the yellow peach variety, until you realise there's a wonderful austerity blended in amongst the more luxurious notes, presumably a result of Semillon. There's also some creaminess and quality oak that, as with the nose, add complexity without dominating the wine. The wine's acidity is a feature, and tingles the side of the tongue as the fruit dances centre stage. It's not the most integrated acid I've ever experienced, but it's well balanced against the intensity and body of the wine. Some more grassy notes creep in as the wine moves to the after palate, and this serves to tighten the wine's line in preparation for a lengthy, acid-driven finish.
I really like the balance this wine strikes between opulence of flavour and firmness of structure. It's full flavoured and almost soft on the palate, yet always crisp and fresh. I've had previous vintages with some bottle age, and for my taste, this wine is even better when it shows some honeyed Semillon character. This wine would be delicious with bruchetta and, for pure drinkability, I would choose it over the other Tyrrell's 2007 Private Bin whites I've tasted so far (note that I haven't yet tried the mighty Vat 1).
Price: $A18.50
Closure: Stelvin
Date tasted: January 2008
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