Rockford "Basket Press" Shiraz 2001

My partner had one sniff of this and said "Is this Port?" I had one sniff of that and said "Is that that crushed ants thing I've heard people talk about?" In short, this doesn't smell at all like most red wines: there's something different. There's almost a varnish characteristic there as well; not unpleasant, but definitely not "correct" (if Yellow Tail ever shipped with that smell, they'd lose market share overnight).

The color is a lovely cloudy ruby, not as dark as you see in Barossa Valley shiraz; it's more reminiscent of Gallo Hearty Burgundy or canned sangria than anything. I'm not saying that pejoratively, by the way - it really is about that same soft, red velvet cupcake shade of red, and it's beautiful.

In the mouth, this is a medium to heavy bodied wine with a surprising line: at first, grilled toast, red berries, spice; then, it quickly moves on to a mid-palate sensation I can't describe quite yet, and then it fans out into a soft, gentle, seemingly tannin-free finish that's all black cherries. All the while there's that same off note that presents itself on the nose, but I honestly don't mind it; it makes it different than other wines, and I'm fine with that. There's also good supporting acidity here, so even if the tannin seems to have gone missing somewhere between San Diego and South Australia, I don't mind a bit.

All in all, this is a rare treat for me. When my parents retired in 1998, they joined the Peace Corps and found themselves stationed in Moldova, a small Eastern European nation that used to be the great wine producing center of the USSR. Given the lack of any kind of modern technology there, most of their wines had similar characteristics to this one. Me, I find this styles to be utterly compelling and a welcome break from the everything's fine school of winemakingthat's the norm.

If most wines are CDs, this one is vinyl.

Rockford
Price: US $22 (tenth)
Closure: Technical cork (!)
Date tasted: April 2008

Leave a comment

Recent Entries

  • Domaine du Poujol Proteus 2007

    One long sniff and suddenly it's 1979. I'm at a Thom McAn store, stuck waiting for a salesman to fetch out a series of increasingly...

  • Neil Ellis Elgin Chardonnay 2007

    Disturbingly bright in the glass, there's something unappetizing about the color of this wine; this isn't a color I usually see in a glass -...

  • Clayfield Grampians Shiraz 2005

    Reading others' tasting notes helps me to learn -- about wine, sure, but more often about a particular point of view. No death of the...

  • Grosset Polish Hill Riesling 2002

    If memory serves correctly, this is the fourth bottle of this wine I've drunk. The first I enjoyed in Perth in September 2002; the second...

  • Leasingham Bin 61 Shiraz 2002

    For me, the worst thing about being a wino is probably the dilemma of choosing something to drink while you're on your own. My partner...

Close