Penfolds St Henri 2002

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Out of the bottle, this wine shows as a dark, heavy Australian shiraz with distinct aromas of hazelnuts and burnt sugar. However, it doesn't come across as overly complex; it's a bit dumb, strangely enough; with some more time and air, it didn't seem to progress much beyond an agreeable but slightly generic "warm climate Syrah" note.

Drinking the wine is an exercise in the texture of luxury; this is as plush as Beverly Hills plastic surgery, round and full at the edges, but (surprisingly) not overdone: this is not a humongous Barossa Valley fruit bomb in the mold of a Parker 95, but something far more difficult and rare: a balanced, well proportioned wine that is absolutely lovely on its own terms - and thankfully without a face-numbing hit of alcohol to back it up.

The finish turns out to be the most amazing thing here: if it weren't for the finish, you wouldn't think this wine's as expensive as it is. It lasts. Minutes later, you still have the impression of savoriness; it's umami beyond belief and reminds me of ketjap manis and dark chocolate ganache. Long after you've swallowed, it's still there... and there seems to be just a hint of minty eucalyptus that sneaks up after a minute or two. Delicious.

Penfolds
Price: US $40
Closure: Cork
Date tasted: June 2008

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Full Pour is a place for two long time friends, and fellow wine nuts, to document their ongoing vinous adventures.

It's a place to celebrate wine (from the cheap to the rarified), to share impressions, complain, exalt, dissect and guzzle. It's also a place to learn and, hopefully, enjoy the company of like-minded people.

Full Pour is Christopher Pratt and Julian Coldrey, with occasional guest contributors.

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