Whilst Ngeringa's "J.E." range is excellent (see our reviews of the Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Shiraz), this is in another league. It's been hanging around for a while waiting to be tasted, partly because the "Syrah" designation prompted irrational fears of an overly intellectual, angular wine. I needn't have worried.
Powerful aromas of black olive, black pepper and fresh herbs (rosemary-like). Add to this a secondary layer of cherry, dark berries and subtle vanilla oak, and you will hopefully get some idea of the complexity, distinctiveness and depth of this wine's aroma profile. The other half said it smells like black forest cake without the sugar, and I'd tend to agree. Quite seamless.
The palate maintains this excitement and starts slippery, widening to a mid-palate of medium body and plentiful flavour. There's more pepper and herb here, followed by berry fruit of a depth evident only once the more high toned elements have expressed themselves. In terms of structural progression, there's beautifully delineated movement through a slippery, spicy mid-palate to a more berry-driven, finely tannic after palate. All very controlled and shapely. And no, it's not the most voluptuous wine, but nor is it forbiddingly cerebral. The oak handling is a highlight, being subtle yet contributing vanillan aromatics throughout and a sour, sappy finish.
Viewed objectively, this wine is all quality, but for me it's also a lovely style. It is sure and confident in character, yet almost elusive in its tendency to emphasise one element or another with each sip. An evening's entertainment in a bottle. Excellent value for what it is.
Price: $A40
Closure: Stelvin
Date tasted: July 2008
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