Barossa Valley reds aren’t terribly well represented in my cellar (or, by extension, in my posts to this blog), about which I feel vaguely irresponsible. It’s one of our classic red wine regions, after all, and the fact that I don’t often feel like drinking its wines probably says more about my lack of discernment than anything else. No matter — tonight I’m cooking a spicy pasta dish, and a fruit-driven red wine will be (I hope) just the ticket. Hence this Shiraz/Grenache blend.
Before I describe the wine, I must say a word in favour of the packaging, which is distinctive and classy. A nice alternative to retro/euro labels without descending into tackiness. An intense, pungent nose of baked clay/earth and spice. It smells like a hot Summer’s day, and I’d like to think the fruit experienced a fair few along its journey towards this bottle. There’s also a slightly volatile vanilla note and, of course, a whack of jammy red fruit. Somewhat complex, commendably regional and expressive of real personality.
Good line from nose to mouth, with a clean, immediate continuation of the aroma’s baked earth and fruit notes. The wine is lighter in body than I expected, and more acidic, all of which subverts an abortive expectation of this as a lazy fruit bomb. Not at all. Flavour is certainly generous, but there’s too much spice, earth and structure to allow complete relaxation in the mouth. It’s lively and bright, with acid and loose-knit tannins creating an almost crunchy mouthfeel. There is more red fruit and vanilla here, along with nut/bark-like spice notes. I wish there were a notch more intensity at the mid-palate. Good drive through the lifted after palate, with nary a dip or dodge along the way to a decent finish.
Good balance, complexity and distinctiveness, but little of the depth and three dimensionality of better wines. I admire such a strong sense of style in a wine at this price point, even if this means the wine will be necessarily (and happily) divisive. Lovers of Barossa reds needn’t hesitate.
Glaetzer
Price: $A22
Closure: Stelvin
Date tasted: October 2008
Glaetzer wines are interesting beasts. There is no denying the quality of the fruit nor the underlying philosophy behind these (and Heartland) wines.
I believe you have certainly described the Wallace well. As for its polarizing opinion, I’m not as sure. The grenache shiraz walks a tightrope between a certain degree of Barossa restraint through careful blending and the “fruitbomb” nature that often (quite unsatisfactorily) describes the region.
As you move up through Glaetzer’s range, and Heartlands, I think you do encounter that devisive element of “is this too big, or rich, or powerfully fruit driven”. I believe these are very good wines, but only for certain moods and certain foods. The Wallace sits just out of that bracket for me.
But thats just my take Julian. And I think “my take” will probably sit on others blogs for at least another year.
I enjoyed your post about wine blogging in the present, and having become more familiar with it I believe I need time before I start my own. Too many unresolved ideas, more need for education, and a desire to have a harvest under my belt leads me to this decision. Thankfully, as you mention, we are spoilt for choice and I shall continue to learn under Wino Sapien, The Full Pour and The Wine Front (and others) until then. Still, I hope my input into these blogs serves some purpose and provides some interest and where people disagree I do hope they will comment. Cheers Julian and keep up the excellent work. jeremy
You may well be right about it’s appeal. To my mind, the very fact it’s not a fruit bomb might limit its appeal, as there may be a certain expectation of such a blend at such a price point. Not having tried this label before, I was surprised by its restraint and emphasis on place rather than generic fruit character. I should add that I do adore Barossa Rhone blends on occasion and, if they happen to be pretty full-on fruit-wise, so long as there’s no overripeness, I’m there in a flash.
I appreciate your comments very much and of course you are welcome (as are all readers) to contribute your thoughts whenever you wish. I still think you have a good blog in you, though. 🙂