Interestingly, this domaine is owned and run by an American, Blair Pethel. According to Ross Duke’s catalogue notes, Mr Pethel was formerly a journalist before turning his passion for wine into a career. None of this has anything to do with his wine (although it may explain the Stelvin cap); still, it’s always nice see someone follow their dreams.
Flashes of green in amongst light straw goodness. Lovely nose of choux pastry and minerals, with just a hint of lean stonefruit. It’s straightforward and extremely comforting at the same time, rich without heaviness. Very nice. The palate shows a level of intensity and drive that’s not evident from the aroma. It’s one of those wines that sneaks up on you; a slippery slidey mouthfeel and delicate entry lead to a mid-palate of considerable presence. To be sure, it’s not a knock ’em down sort of wine, but it rises above the relaxation suggested on the nose and attack. More stonefruit and funky minerality wash over the tongue here, along with a suggestion of vanilla essence. It’s not an elegant wine, but it’s generous and true, and deceptively complex too. Clean fruit on the after palate shows more citrus than anything else, adding a fresh lift to the wine, although it also loses density and hence impact. The satisfying finish displays butterscotch tendencies that outlive fruit flavours by some margin.
A drink-now white Burgundy of significant deliciousness.
Date tasted: November 2008