Ridge Mataro Pato Vineyard 2003

Going by the label on the back of the bottle, I shouldn't have waited so long to open it - but it doesn't seem to matter too much. It smells like strawberries and cream and/or refrigerated ground beef, but I honestly don't mean that in a bad way. There's a briary sweetness hinting at old age there too, blooming into old leather and cologne, oranges and cloves with a good swirl.

In the mouth it's, well, odd: initially a touch sweet, quickly replaced with milky chocolate tannin and savory red berries. Then, suddenly, the wine rears up with a harsh whack of acidity, explodes with alcohols, and settlies down into a long, harmonious finish of citrus peel and nutmeg. It doesn't all hang together particularly well; it's like watching a Hollywood blockbuster with five screenwriters, two of them uncredited. Sure, every scene is a pleasure unto itself, but the narrative arc is just a little bit lacking here.

That being said, it's surprisingly delicious and moderately complex. Bandol it's not, but it's a fine drink.

Ridge
Price: US $30
Closure: Cork

Leave a comment

Recent Entries

  • Domaine du Poujol Proteus 2007

    One long sniff and suddenly it's 1979. I'm at a Thom McAn store, stuck waiting for a salesman to fetch out a series of increasingly...

  • Neil Ellis Elgin Chardonnay 2007

    Disturbingly bright in the glass, there's something unappetizing about the color of this wine; this isn't a color I usually see in a glass -...

  • Clayfield Grampians Shiraz 2005

    Reading others' tasting notes helps me to learn -- about wine, sure, but more often about a particular point of view. No death of the...

  • Grosset Polish Hill Riesling 2002

    If memory serves correctly, this is the fourth bottle of this wine I've drunk. The first I enjoyed in Perth in September 2002; the second...

  • Leasingham Bin 61 Shiraz 2002

    For me, the worst thing about being a wino is probably the dilemma of choosing something to drink while you're on your own. My partner...

Close