Pure Hunter on the nose: red berries squashed on a dry dirt road. Nuances of roast meat and herbs contribute complexity, and subtle oak underlines what is a piercing, relatively high-toned aroma profile. The more I smell this wine, the more I get from it; it’s definitely a wine to savour through the evening rather than slam down fast.

The palate is restrained and tight, showing little evidence of a rest in bottle. Acid! Really, lots of it, keeping the fruit in check and the line in shape. Not that there’s a lack of enjoyment — in fact, within the constraints of youthful structure, the fruit is remarkably intense and detailed. Medium bodied, there are bright savoury red berries along with more herb and lightly spiced oak. Totally consistent from nose the palate. I love the way this wine feels in the mouth, with very fine acidity and equally fine, ripe tannins creating a large-scale textural underlay for the fruit. Very long finish.

Loads of quality here for sure, but it’s way too young to drink right now. Reminds me a little of Chianti. I’ll be cracking another in five years.

Tulloch
Price: $A40
Closure: Cork