I opened this wine tonight because I was looking forward to drinking a 1997 Château de Besseuil. Clearly, Hunter Valley Verdelho isn’t white Burgundy; the Tulloch is also different in that it’s not corked to a nostril-shocking degree. After smelling the tell-tale wet cardboard on my Besseuil, I reached for the wine in my immediate vicinity least likely to be faulty. And here we are.
Perhaps not a very generous way to introduce this wine; the reality is, this label has been most consistent over the past few years, and the Hunter Valley does a solid line in Verdelho more generally. So there’s some pedigree at work here.
The nose is really friendly and almost joyously perfumed, with bubblegum fruitiness alongside floral notes that remind me of my favourite outmoded “French whorehouse” fragrances. It’s also very, very clean. It’s a very commercial style, but in a way its flavoursome anonymity is refreshing in a sea of Sauvignon Blanc on the one hand, and Pinot Gris on the other.
The palate seems to be a step up from previous vintages, with a sense of calm sophistication that I wasn’t expecting. Mostly this is due to a full, slippery mouthfeel that carries a whole fruit salad of flavour over the tongue. The acidity is notable, as it’s both lively and very fine at the same time. In character, this wine is fruity with a high toned powderiness that recalls perfume and a persistent sense of levity that is, finally, quite convincing. It’s not complex, intense or long, but who cares?
A really fun wine that would be perfect Summer afternoon drinking.
Tulloch
Price: $A13.30
Closure: Stelvin
At least you can write a Verdelho up! I sit there, sort of enjoy a couple of glasses and then go…No idea.
And what’s this sea of Pinot Gris nonsense. You know Gris is a great grape/style! 😉
cheers
j
I really like Verdelho. As you say, fun and fruity.
GW
Jeremy,
Gris schmis. What’s nice about this is simply that it’s not one of those.
GW,
Yes, very fun and for me much more of a “brain off” white style than almost anything else, while still being flavoursome and dry. Yum!
Julian.