Some producers, often the more interesting ones, evolve a consistent house style that, presumably, speaks to a certain idea of wine. In the case of Yelland & Papps, there’s an easygoing lack of pretentiousness to its wines that is, frankly, a relief after tasting more ambitious, overwrought styles. On the minus side, it can come across as excessively dilute and unstructured, as I felt was the case with the 2007 Cabernet I tasted (but did not write up) the other day. But when it works, as with this Shiraz, it’s very pleasing indeed.
Once past an initial bit of stink, lots of expressive, soft aromas, with a mixture of milk coffee, sweet juicy berries, crushed leaf and warm brown spice. It just smells good really, the same way coming home to an almost-ready roast dinner smells good, and it’s not hard to forgive a hint of overripe fruit that is also in the mix.
The palate is attractively structured, with the same prominent acidity I noted in this producer’s 2007 Grenache propping up each flavour and tempering the sweeter tendencies of the fruit. The entry is straightforward and quite lively, introducing a core of clean blackberry fruit surrounded by supporting spice and coffee oak. The middle palate is just so easy and clean, it’s hard not to enjoy. Nice movement through the after palate, with lighter red berry flavours coming to the fore. Decent, balanced finish with subtly textured tannins lightly brushing the tongue.
A very down-to-earth wine. Provided you don’t have any issues with acid-driven, relatively fruit sweet red wines, it should go down a treat.
Yelland & Papps
Price: $A30
Closure: Stelvin
Source: Sample
Given the vintage, I thought this was a very good wine. In 2007 Some of the larger producers in the barossa and SE Australia generally have produced hot, alcoholic wines with dead or flat fruit. Y&P literally selected by hand the fruit they wanted from their vineyards. Ditto for the hotter 2008 I assume. I like how Y&P produce wines that drink now but can also age and develop a bit- I see elegance intheir wines, especially the Grenache and blends. Will be interesting to see how they go with the new winery and cellar door. This review makes me want to grab a bottle from my cellar!
I’m glad the review stimulated your appetite!
There’s certainly a minimum of “dead fruit” flavours in this wine; just a hint on the nose perhaps. Your insight into the sorting process undertaken by the producer would certainly explain this.
I think you are right about the style; it’s an easy, approachable take on Barossa red wine, good for “real world” drinking.
Thanks for the reviews to date julian.
It’s interetsing you say that about the Cab because this was the wine we had most trouble with starting with it being picked in the rain and dropping in baume(wasn’t happy).
We have also noticed a bit of pong on the shiraz when opened up, but this blows off fairly quick.
I’m glad you like the style I am trying to achieve with my wines, approachable, easy drinking but will cellar for years to come.
Thanks again and look forward to see the last review on the blend.
Hi Michael,
That’s interesting re the Cabernet. I must admit, I tasted it after the Balnaves Tally, which is a very concentrated wine, so its relative lack of stuffing was probably exaggerated. But yes, I felt the Shiraz and Grenache were better balanced overall, full flavoured yet easygoing, as per your style.
Cheers,
Julian.