The companion wine to the Sauvignon Blanc tasted earlier this week. I must be in a better mood tonight because I find myself more forgiving of what are similarly soft stylistic choices with this wine. Part of it is that I like Marlborough Pinot Noir, surely the daggiest red style produced in New Zealand. I enjoy its abundance, silky ease and accessibility; the opposite of brutish Central Otago wines and tiresomely stylish Martinborough ones.
I like the colour; it’s quite brilliant, with a low level of density yet showing flashes of precocious purple amongst its garnets and rubies. Those nose was a little harsh at first; with what appeared to be a bit of volatility and some sulfur perhaps; it’s mostly blown off now, though. What’s left are typically sour tamarillo fruit aromas, piercing and light. There’s no depth or complexity at all, but it’s pleasingly varietal and nimble.
The palate is similarly dimensioned and shows the same varietal correctness as the nose. Entry is fruit-driven, with some sweet, squishy fruit atop what is an acid-driven structure. It’s all a bit edgy and thin perhaps; I want more stuffing, but what’s there is pretty and great to quaff. The middle palate shows a tad more generosity, seemingly sugar-derived, before a tart after palate introduces a smattering of grainy tannins. Not a bad finish, with some sappy complexities taking over right at the back of the mouth.
As with the white, this is a well-judged commercial wine that seems to be hitting the spot more effectively for me this evening.
Braided River
Price: $A24.95
Closure: Stelvin
Source: Sample