Riesling is one of those varieties we do especially well in Australia, and what’s exciting for me is that, in addition to the beautiful, unique Rieslings from the Clare and Eden Valleys, there are a range of other authentic styles that are either emerging (as in those from the Canberra District) or long term classics that fly under the radar. Rieslings from Western Victoria fall into the latter category for me, so it’s with some anticipation that I tasted this new release from Best’s.
The 2009 was, from memory, a rather searing experience, but this wine is somewhat different. It’s more elaborately perfumed for starters, all florals and talc with hints of fuller, cumquat-like fruit. One could never describe the aroma as rich, but there’s a softness here that is nicely approachable. There’s a streak of minerality too that runs beneath the higher toned aromas. I can see some spritzig in the glass, which isn’t surprising for such a young wine.
The palate shows a similar range of flavours as the nose but, given the slightly fuller notes, is surprisingly tight, and very much in the regional mode. Entry is driven by minerality before lime blossom and citrus rind thicken the middle palate. Acidity is full-on to say the least, aided by some light spritz and a flavour profile that remains angular along the line, but offset by a nicely rounded mouthfeel on the after palate. I don’t think the palate structure is hanging together quite yet and feel some time in the bottle will help things to cohere. The finish is delicate, mostly minerals and flowers.
Nice wine. Give this a few months then tuck in!