Yelland & Papps Devote Greenock Shiraz 2009

This has been open a good couple of days and is just starting to sing. There was something fuzzy about it on opening, the clarity of its fruit obscured by structural static. Much better now, though.

On the nose, a spiced, clove-laced aroma of crushed blood plums and cedar, pine needles and marzipan. Opulent is going too far; mellifluous a better description for what is an easy, conversational aroma profile. I like the oak character in particular; it’s a mixture of nougat and nuts with hints of dark spice. Despite being more accessible after a couple of days, this remains a rustic nose, roughed up with dark notes and graced with a character of fruit that’s more tart-baked than freshly picked.

The palate is generous and solidly structured, with a level of density that remains high right down the line. That said, it’s not the most highly defined wine, flavours blurring into one another with pleasant casualness. So the overall impression is one of large scale ease, which is tremendously appealing if you set aside the sort of hard-edged detail that some wines pursue in the name of quality. No, this is old school Barossa, full of plum and fruit cake spice, well-balanced acid and soft tannins. The fruit may lack an ounce of freshness, but it’s barely a mark on the drinkability here.

A very good wine in its style.

Yelland & Papps
Price: $A32
Closure: Stelvin
Source: Sample

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