Kurtz Family Boundary Row Grenache Shiraz Mataro 2006

This is the kind of wine I'd usually consume soon after release, in expectation of the sort of plush fruit that can carry 15% ABV; it's interesting to try this now, after a little time in bottle. That a sub-$20 wine can age few years shouldn't be taken for granted, so I'm pleased to note this is, at the very least, still very drinkable

Whether it's preferable now compared to as a youngster is less sure. There are definite signs of decay here, starting with an aroma that is somewhat liquerous, overlaid with autumn leaves and leather. It's relaxed, speaking of middle age rather than boisterous youth, perhaps having lost the naive enthusiasm that can make Barossa reds so attractive on release. My only complaint is a thinness to the aroma profile, as if it has lost a tad too much stuffing.

The palate confirms these mixed impressions, from fruit character to leanness of profile. Overall, it's a dark, brooding wine, treading on the right side of portiness while flowing over the mouth in a surprisingly elegant, quite seamless way. Acid and tannin are both fairly relaxed, creating plenty of space for a clean expression of gently ageing fruit to flow down the line. I wish there were a bit more roundness to the palate structure, more fullness of fruit, because its tendency towards leanness exposes the alcohol, which circles back around to further compress the fruit. It's also pleasantly warm, though, and a hint of mixed herbs adds to the impression of rustic comfort.

Kurtz Family Vineyards
Price: $NA
Closure: Cork
Source: Gift

Leave a comment

Recent Entries

  • Angullong Fossil Hill Pinot Gris 2011

    Although I've only tasted a few, I'm going to go out on a limb and suggest that Pinot Gris from Orange has a lot of...

  • Yelland & Papps Delight Grenache Shiraz 2010

    To my mind, Yelland & Papps is a bit of a Grenache specialist, or at least I consistently like its Grenaches more than any other...

  • Peregrine Chardonnay 2009

    Descriptors are unhelpful enough without having to endure the mangling to which we often subject them. The fruit analogues are one thing; "peach" is at...

  • Yelland & Papps Delight Shiraz 2010

    It's easy to heap praise on premium wines, for there's often an outstanding quality to their fruit or winemaking that attracts easy attention. And we...

  • Dowie Doole Cane Cut Viognier 2010

    For some reason, I don't often reach for a sticky, even though I have thoroughly enjoyed many bottles over the years. I suppose it's the,...

Close