The nose shows brown spice, oak, liquerous dark fruits; generous and comforting without being excessively rich. It’s a very clean aroma profile with a hint of mystery too — a dark pool of smells, rippling gently and promising cool refreshment.

A gentle entry follows, showing no great rush to get to the middle palate. Rather, fruit begins to come in waves, riding slightly prickly acidity and an incline of grainy tannins. Not a highly defined wine, this is more about expressionist brushstrokes and broad statements. It’s also quite sophisticated; the flavour profile, mixing sourness and nutty oak flavours with just enough fleshy fruit, seems quite adult to me. A nice, long, gentle finish.

This held up well over three days of tasting. Give it a couple of years and then tuck in.