I retrieved a mini-vertical of Clonakilla Rieslings from storage recently, and have already tasted the 2002. Here, now, is the 2003, of which I have several bottles but no recollection of tasting on release. A poor memory of one’s own wine collection is more advantageous than it sounds, as it allows for the wonderful experience of discovery multiple times per wine. Now that’s value.
One from the cellar. As an aside, the first bottle I had of this wine was tainted with a strikingly unpleasant mercaptan rubber cabbage stink, and was replaced courteously and promptly by the winery. All subsequent bottles have been clean as a whistle.More than a dash of smoky, sweet oak; it’s prominent but also complementary to the fruit’s aroma profile, which is ripe, dense and savoury. There’s almost liqueur-like black cherry and some Hunter earth, maybe even a hint of cured pork, dark and slightly brooding in character. Entry is flavoursome, with good immediacy and some interesting textural complexity. There’s nice mix of silkiness and powdery phenolics. Full bodied, the wine’s mid-palate is still quite focused and primary, sweetly oak heavy as per the nose, and strikes me as resembling adult bubble gum (if such a thing existed). Nice presence on the after palate, where the wine lightens a little and prepares for a finish of excellent length and deliciously ripe tannins. It’s not typically Hunter in style, but that’s neither here nor there, as the wine is coherent in and of itself. Overall, the impression is flavoursome and rustic, but never obvious or clumsy. Try this wine with equally assertive food — a tasty dish of pasta and rich ragu would be perfect.Meerea ParkCost: $A25Closure: CorkDate tasted: May 2008
The 2005 Philip took me by (not entirely pleasant) surprise, its scale and style seeming bigger than the regular Philip and feeling a bit borderline to me in terms of balance. I thought I’d revisit the 2003 version, which I remember enjoying a lot on release, now that I’ve tried the newer wine a few times. I recall the 2003 being a rich wine, full of flavour, but identifiably regional too. The nose is quite dirty/dusty in the regional sense, with savoury red fruits weaving through the earthiness. It is ripe, yet balanced and with no hint of portiness. There’s a fair whack of vanilla too. On the palate, a rich entry that shows soft, concentrated fruit character and medium body. Flavour unfolds onto the middle palate with softness and grace, but things start to go awry a little, with rough, sappy, vanillan oak threatening to unbalance the wine’s flavour profile. The fruit, however, is excellent and full of character, with definite signs of aged complexity. A soft after palate and reasonable length round the wine off.I don’t remember so much oak on this wine; perhaps some bottle variation is happening here. In any case, I like this wine a great deal and might even prefer it to the 2005. Having said that, they are both excellent wines and amazingly good value for money, and the 2005 may be a more appropriate choice to accompany robust food flavours (it went well with some pizza we had the other night). The 2005 has the added advantage of being bottled under screwcap.McWilliams Mount PleasantPrice: $A15Closure: CorkDate tasted: March 2008
I don’t know anything about One Tree Hill. I don’t think the bottle I consumed has anything to do with Scaffidi Wines, which uses “One Tree Hill” as a label on some of its products. The back label identifies it as a Hunter Valley wine made “under the supervision of Len Evans.” It happened to be on sale for $5 at the local First Choice. I’d be interested to know more about its origins.
A dense purple-red colour, still youthful. The nose initially showed dominant raisin-like notes and assertive vanilla oak. Then some complexities: prunes, fresher red fruit, some black pepper and clovey spice. If you can get over the dried fruit notes (which, I admit, aren’t always to my taste), there’s some good intensity here. It is not, however, a lightfooted aroma profile.
The entry shows a slippery-slidey mouthfeel that lands on the mid-palate with more vanilla oak, raspberries, dried fruits. Quite intense, yet clumsy and oak heavy too. Low in acid and tannin, this wine’s structure steps back to place full bodied fruit at centre stage. The after palate is spicy but tapers quickly to a short-ish finish.
I’m not going to complain too much over a $5 wine, especially one that is full of flavour. The flavours, though, seem stressed, perhaps a result of the very dry 2003 vintage in the Hunter. Those raisin/prune notes, as well as the assertive oak, don’t mesh well with my sense of Hunter Shiraz or, more broadly, of what I enjoy drinking. On the other hand, this is very clearly not an industrial product, showing character (including what one might classify as faults or markers of a difficult vintage) and generosity. Perhaps one should be grateful for that fact alone.
One Tree HillPrice: $A5Closure: CorkDate tasted: February 2008
Generic Côtes du Rhône reds can often make a nice change to the usual mid-week wines. Here’s one from the problematic 2003 vintage, coming in at the $A20 mark.
A transparent garnet, bright, attractive, with some signs of bricking at the rim. The nose is extroverted and fruit driven, if a bit simple. Bright, somewhat confected red fruits and floral notes are the dominant theme, with some gamey, meaty characters adding complexity.
The entry is a little weak and it’s only on the middle palate that flavours really expand and become generous. The wine is medium to light bodied, again with bright, sweet and slightly confected fruit flavours. Mouthfeel is soft and easy, with enough structure to keep the wine from lapsing into flabbiness, but only just. Alcohol heat pokes out a bit. The after palate thins out fairly quickly, and the wine’s finish is not truncated, but neither is it remarkable.
This wine’s a bit middling in most respects, but it’s also flavourful and very easy to drink. Value for money is always a bit hard when it comes to wine, as it can be difficult to put a price on variety and difference. If you’re bored of local quaffers and would like a change, this certainly fits the bill at a reasonable price. In absolute quality terms, though, there are any number of local wines that beat the pants of this wine at the same price point.
Château Mont-Redon
Price: $A20
Closure: Cork
Date tasted: November 2007