Houghton White Classic (nee Burgundy) 2006

The first thing that strikes one about this wine is not the colour or aroma but the back label, most of which is devoted to explaining why the name has changed from White Burgundy to White Classic (it’s all because of “international trade agreements”, apparently). In any case, this is the same venerable dry white blend that has been a budget priced staple for many years. I’ve never been entirely sure of the blend of grapes that goes into this wine, and at the risk of inflating this entry’s tags beyond reasonableness, have determined that it contains Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Semillon, Verdelho and Sauvignon Blanc. Phew.Surprisingly complex aromas that also show what appears to be a bit of honeyed bottle age. A mix of this sweet honey and powdery florals, slightly thick smelling and overlaying more reticent honeydew-like fruit. It actually smells a bit like cheap perfume. The entry is slippery but without immediate flavour, and it’s only towards the end of the middle palate that fruit flavour begins to build. Flavours are again in the light melon and perhaps apple spectrum, quite tasty, but lacking what I would call “integrity” in its flavour profile. Some wines present flavours that somehow add up to a satisfying whole — this wine seems more scatterbrained. Flavour continues to build towards the after palate, and the wine finishes with subtle, bitter phenolics. There’s also relatively lively acidity running the length of the palate, which is refreshing and helps the flavours gain some impact.I’m not sure what to make of this wine. Clearly, it’s exceptional value for money, and it’s quite different from your run of the mill Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon or Chardonnay. That in itself worth something. But when it comes time to assess what’s in the glass, I’m having a hard time getting particularly excited. It does the job. That’s about it. I believe this wine ages well (although I’ve never tried an older example). Perhaps, like our beloved Hunter Semillon, this may turn into something unexpectedly interesting with time.HoughtonPrice: $A8Closure: Cork (!)Date tasted: December 2007

Marc Brédif Vouvray 2005

The nose is best described as elusive, but tantalisingly so. Flavours of powder, flint, light tropical fruit, herbs and musk seem to emerge from the glass with unexpected intensity and then disappear again just as suddenly; the overall effect is quite beguiling.

The entry is not flavourful so much as textural. It’s slippery and surprisingly viscous and leads to a medium bodied palate that is again surprisingly intense. There are herbal edges to the same light tropical fruits that showed on the nose, plus a whack of acidity that introduces a mineral aspect to the flavour profile. It also counterbalances the residual sugar that emerges on the middle palate. Really nicely judged in this respect. Flavour density builds towards the after palate, and the wine’s finish shows very clean, lingeringly sweet fruit and minerality in equal measure.

I’m actually having this wine as an aperitif, and regret that I don’t have something like a nice liver pate to go with it. This is a lovely wine for those who enjoy a more subtle white wine experience – perhaps those who can appreciate a younger Hunter Semillon might enjoy this wine. To me, there’s a sophistication in this wine’s reticence and elusiveness. Balance and complexity in spades. Very nice indeed.

Marc Brédif
Price: $A30
Closure: Cork
Date tasted: November 2007