And now for the big guns. I’ve deliberately tasted the 2010 Dowie Doole Shirazes in ascending order of price, as I find it endlessly fascinating how producers differentiate wines at various price points within their range. If the standard wine is all about drinkability, and the Cali Road character, the Reserve is concerned with packing as much in as possible.

Without wanting to suggest its proportions are ridiculous (far from it), this wine is by far the most dense, firmly flavoured of the three. Oak is present, but I’m pleased the nose throws primarily fruit-driven aromas, really liquerous and rich, very much in the plum spectrum. These flavours aren’t challenging; in fact, the aroma seems simply a much bigger, denser version of the entry level wine, more of everything in every way but never losing the rich ease of the region’s Shiraz, which I adore.

The palate, while fully flavoured, is most striking for its ease and flow. This is such a mellifluous wine, moving gently through the entry and middle palate, pushing intense plum fruit out from its brisk line to cover the tongue with flavour. There are prickles of acid at the edges, nicely fresh but mostly undisturbed by the thickness of the wine’s flavour and its generous body. It’s probably full bodied, but comes across more medium, because it’s fundamentally a relaxed wine, keen to be drunk rather than dissected.  I like the bright red swell through the after palate, and the silty tannins that settle on the finish are delicious.

I’ve felt that some previous Reserve wines have been a bit oak-dominant and showy, but this is all high class deliciousness; sexy, sensuous and worth the money.

Dowie Doole
Price: $A60
Closure: Diam
Source: Sample

When a wine is identified as coming from a single vineyard, it creates an expectation of distinctiveness, of an identifiable character that goes beyond simple varietal or regional correctness. In a way, the question of what a single vineyard bottling brings (if anything) over and above a well executed blend goes to the heart of what we value in wine. It’s a big topic that I won’t try to do justice to with this note, but I will say that the last bottling of this wine, the 2008, was by far my favourite Dowie Doole Shiraz from that vintage precisely because it tasted different, perhaps less glossy than the Reserve, but to me more attractive for its kinks.

I’ve not yet tasted the 2010 Reserve, but the single vineyard bottling, rechristened Cali Road, recalls the most pleasing aspects of the previous release. Immediately, the aroma is unvarnished, showing lovely regional earth and cocoa alongside typically plump McLaren Vale plum fruit. Oak plays a prominent role too, and I might object to its volume if it weren’t so typical of old school red wine from this region, and hence almost an expected element of the style. Its character is also well matched to the fruit aromas.

The palate is superbly drinkable. It enters with grace and subtlety, building to a middle palate that maxes out at medium bodied and is awash with down home red and black fruits, regional earth and salty texture. Structure begins with firm, well integrated acid and transitions to grainy, loose knit tannins through the after palate; its almost 15% alcohol is nowhere to be seen. Oak is, again, a feature of the wine, albeit one that is integrated and quite delicious. What I like most about this wine is its understatement. It’s just so unforced and, at the same time, shows real personality. This is the quiet guest at a dinner party who, half way through the evening, becomes the centre of attention without once calling attention to himself.

I feel like this is McLaren Vale Shiraz stripped of modernity, where the winemaking is traditional and the resulting wine intimate and real. Absolutely my sort of wine, and very much worth the price premium over the standard Shiraz in the range.

Dowie Doole
Price: $A35
Closure: Diam
Source: Sample

Seems it’s McLaren Vale Shiraz time lately at Full Pour, which is just fine by me. Like the recently reviewed Dowie Doole, this shows fruit character that is deliciously true to the region.

The nose is dark and quite serious, throwing dense aromas that alternate between dark plums, earth and chocolate. I like the suggestion of liqueur here, which avoids any sense of over concentration and instead seems to mesh well with the earthy, almost mineral notes that sit alongside. I’d call it rustic but that would paint a misleadingly coarse picture of what is quite a resolved aroma profile. The palate is full and flavoursome. Entry is clean and driven by straightforward plum fruit. Some detail and texture creeps in through the middle palate, and I like the way the edges of my tongue pick up raspy tannin while the middle remains focused on fruit. Acid seems laid back, although the after palate shows some brightness and zing. Intensity is moderate. Overall, it lacks a degree of refinement in its articulation of flavours, but what’s here is clean and tastefully balanced. Oak is, in particular, subtly handled, even as it remains an important component.

A solid wine indeed, and one I’d be happy to drink with a nice lamb casserole.

Chapel Hill
Price: $A30
Closure: Stelvin
Source: Sample

Though the Merlot occupies a special place in my heart, there’s no doubt the core of Dowie Doole’s red wine portfolio centres on Shiraz. This wine is the standard label.

The nose is liqueurous, dark and seamless. There’s a big hit of coconut oak, which is regionally typical, and the whole vibe is very much old school McLaren Vale Shiraz in the best possible way. What I like about this region’s wines above those of the nearby Barossa is a less spiced, more fluid flavour profile, which for me ramps up drinkability. Plus, that hint of earth and dark chocolate that so characterises this region’s Shiraz, and which are very much present in this wine, are like catnip to me. Indeed, I’m a fan of the McLaren Vale. This stuff is dangerously drinkable.

On entry, charmingly self-effacing, moving through to the middle palate with a decent blast of fruit and a correspondingly firm dose of oak. Acid seems subdued, creating a relaxed, thick vibe on the middle palate. Plenty of berries, dusty cocoa, oak and earth. A clean after palate and finish follow, showing as much oak as fruit. It’s difficult to use American oak and get a subtle result and, for some tastes, the level and character of the oak here might be overwhelming, especially considering the appeal of the fruit’s flavour profile.

This is the kind of wine that will slay guests at a barbeque, being the kind of robust and drinkable red that can cut through the haze of casual drinking. I’m very much looking forward to tasting the California Road and Reserve wines.

Dowie Doole
Price: $A25
Closure: Stelvin
Source: Sample