What do you drink with tom kha soup? I wasn’t feeling particular inspired in terms of food and wine matching, so just opened a bottle I felt like drinking. The 2005 version of this wine gave me great pleasure on numerous occasions.
Time to taste the companion wine to the Chardonnay tasted a few days prior. I started on this bottle last night but wasn’t really in the mood for analytical tasting. And, I must say, the wine didn’t much suit my mood. Tonight, however, the wine and I are more in sync. Fickle, fickle me.
This wine is a savoury expression of Pinot Noir fruit, with little in the way of easy padding or obvious fruit flavour. Instead, the nose greets one with tightly held dark fruits, beetroot type flavours, some sous-bois, perhaps the slightest hint of sweetness peeping out.
The wine’s entry reinforces a savoury flavour profile and, whilst flavoursome, is very focused and structured as it opens out to the middle palate. It is here the wine’s mouthfeel asserts itself. It’s all about texture, this wine, with the same flavours indicated on the nose riding atop the wine’s structure. Savoury tannins kick in quite early and carry the wine through the latter stages of the palate to a lengthy finish. The tannins are again quite remarkable in texture but I wonder if there’s a slightly unripe edge to them too.
This is not an easy drinking quaffer but rather a Pinot that will reward those who enjoy chiseled, savoury wines; a more “intellectual” wine, if you will. It might surprise those who are accustomed to Yarra Valley fruit bombs. At this price, this is excellent value. Don’t serve it too warm.
Hoddles Creek
Price: $A18
Closure: Stelvin
Tasted: November 2007
I had this with food; specifically, a creamy chicken pasta dish. With a few minutes in the glass, this wine gave off aromas of roasted nuts, vanilla, coffee and spice (presumably oak derived), light sulfur, along with cool climate chardonnay fruit (white stone fruit, etc). It’s an attractive nose, with good volume and flavour integration, quite complex really.
The wine’s entry is smooth and focused, leading to a mid-palate that is again focused and reasonably intense. Flavours show tight preserved lemon and a range of noticeable, though not overwhelming, oak notes. There’s a nice crescendo of flavour towards the after palate, and this ensures pleasing persistence through the tight, acid-driven finish. This is an elegant wine of reasonable complexity. To return to the starting point, this wine went extremely well with food, graced as it is with ample acidity. It doesn’t jump out at me as a ‘wow’ wine in any particular way, but it’s also rather hard to fault. Excellent value.
Update: on the second night, this wine had upped the intensity an extra notch, without losing its focus and structure. I’m feeling happy to have bought a few of these.
Hoddles Creek
Price: $A18
Closure: Stelvin
Tasted: November 2007