Dowie Doole Chenin Blanc 2010

Whether it’s the youth of this wine, vintage conditions or a stylistic choice on the part of its maker, the 2010 Chenin from Dowie Doole is a significantly more taut, edgy experience than previous vintages (for example, the 2009). And, as delicious as the softer, fruit salad Chenin style can be, this is something else entirely, closer to the reserve Tintookie wine than to its predecessors. 

The nose shows aromas of delicate apple skins, minerals and a fairy floss note that I’m sure I’m describing poorly; fairy floss is the first thing that comes to mind, though, and it’s something I’ve noticed in a lot of Loire Chenins. It’s fresh and expressive, but not at all slutty; any seduction happening here is of the high class sort. 
In the mouth, a burst of minerality that races through to the middle palate, where Granny Smith apples mix with a hint of roasted almonds. This is so structured and alive — the acidity is abundant and natural-tasting — it takes a moment for actual flavours to register, but they are there, fresh and clean, and quite intense. Decent thrust through the after palate leads to a slight dip just before an unexpectedly long, truly impressive finish.
When opening the bottle, I expected a fresh, easy Summer quaffer. This release really is a step up, though, showing real sophistication of structure and restraint of flavour. This delivers a lot for the dollars, and I would not be surprised if it improves over the medium term. 

Dowie Doole
Price: $A18
Closure: Stelvin
Source: Sample

Sarantos Soft Press Moscato 2010

Moscato has quickly become quite the lifestyle product – one look at the press release that came with this wine confirms its priorities (low alcohol, wines that reflect a “way of life”). I hope this doesn’t appear cynical; although wine wankers (and I count myself amongst them) tend to revere authenticity and decry any hint of commercial reality, I’m resolutely in favour of wine styles that strike a chord with the mass market, if only because for some, perhaps, Moscato might be a gateway drug into a much wider world of wine. Even if not, I’m the first to admit some of these wines are damned refreshing and have found a place in my life.

This particular example is reasonably priced (not always a given) and stylishly packaged. It’s quite low on the spritz, which I regret a little because the varietal character of these wines can be a little cloying, and CO2 can help to cut through that distinctively sweet, grape-like character. The aroma here is actually a bit muted, with rich but subdued floral notes sitting alongside simpler fruit characters. On entry, tending towards fat, with quite rich fruit notes pushing aside subtleties of mouthfeel and flavour. No matter; there’s a lot here and it’s certainly easy to drink. The middle palate picks up a little with some textural influences that cut through the richness. Thins out through the after palate, which simply encourages another sip. Sugar levels are borderline for me, though I think ultimately well-judged with respect to the other elements, and should make for a pretty breezy experience.
I was thinking earlier today about fortified wines and how much I enjoy them. This, obviously, sits at the opposite end of the spectrum, presenting quite a different experience of enjoyment to no doubt a different target audience. No less worthwhile for it.

Sarantos Wines
Price: $A14.99
Closure: Stelvin
Source: Sample