Seems it’s McLaren Vale Shiraz time lately at Full Pour, which is just fine by me. Like the recently reviewed Dowie Doole, this shows fruit character that is deliciously true to the region.

The nose is dark and quite serious, throwing dense aromas that alternate between dark plums, earth and chocolate. I like the suggestion of liqueur here, which avoids any sense of over concentration and instead seems to mesh well with the earthy, almost mineral notes that sit alongside. I’d call it rustic but that would paint a misleadingly coarse picture of what is quite a resolved aroma profile. The palate is full and flavoursome. Entry is clean and driven by straightforward plum fruit. Some detail and texture creeps in through the middle palate, and I like the way the edges of my tongue pick up raspy tannin while the middle remains focused on fruit. Acid seems laid back, although the after palate shows some brightness and zing. Intensity is moderate. Overall, it lacks a degree of refinement in its articulation of flavours, but what’s here is clean and tastefully balanced. Oak is, in particular, subtly handled, even as it remains an important component.

A solid wine indeed, and one I’d be happy to drink with a nice lamb casserole.

Chapel Hill
Price: $A30
Closure: Stelvin
Source: Sample

Though the Merlot occupies a special place in my heart, there’s no doubt the core of Dowie Doole’s red wine portfolio centres on Shiraz. This wine is the standard label.

The nose is liqueurous, dark and seamless. There’s a big hit of coconut oak, which is regionally typical, and the whole vibe is very much old school McLaren Vale Shiraz in the best possible way. What I like about this region’s wines above those of the nearby Barossa is a less spiced, more fluid flavour profile, which for me ramps up drinkability. Plus, that hint of earth and dark chocolate that so characterises this region’s Shiraz, and which are very much present in this wine, are like catnip to me. Indeed, I’m a fan of the McLaren Vale. This stuff is dangerously drinkable.

On entry, charmingly self-effacing, moving through to the middle palate with a decent blast of fruit and a correspondingly firm dose of oak. Acid seems subdued, creating a relaxed, thick vibe on the middle palate. Plenty of berries, dusty cocoa, oak and earth. A clean after palate and finish follow, showing as much oak as fruit. It’s difficult to use American oak and get a subtle result and, for some tastes, the level and character of the oak here might be overwhelming, especially considering the appeal of the fruit’s flavour profile.

This is the kind of wine that will slay guests at a barbeque, being the kind of robust and drinkable red that can cut through the haze of casual drinking. I’m very much looking forward to tasting the California Road and Reserve wines.

Dowie Doole
Price: $A25
Closure: Stelvin
Source: Sample

Three 2009 Shirazes in one sitting – this, the same producer’s Road Block and the Tyrrell’s Old Block. Each wine completely different from the next, though with both Chapel Hill wines showing a distinct regional relationship, as one would hope.

Increasingly, I’m enjoying what I see as the nascent influence of Burgundy on Australian Shiraz, not of technique, but of philosophy. There are such marked differences between regional Shiraz styles, and indeed within regions and sub-regions, yet to my mind this remains territory that is barely mapped, and wines like this are a step along the path towards a deeper, finer, Burgundian understanding of how Australia does Shiraz. None of which would matter if the wines weren’t much good, so I’m pleased to note this is an excellent McLaren Vale Shiraz, in my opinion superior to the Road Block, though very different from it too. The vines here are a lot older, and without wanting to dive into that conversation, I will innocently note that this wine seems more resolved and complex, less brutal in flavour profile than the Road Block.

The nose is quite settled and full of adult savouriness; dusted cocoa powder, cherries, raspberries, complexity, medicine, comfort, dusty beauty. Who doesn’t love a farmer? This smells so genuine it completely bypasses a conversation about what it is and just exists in its vibrant, deeply understood way.

The palate is of medium weight and seamless complexity. There are coffee grounds and red fruits, expressed with significant intensity of flavour. What’s really nice here is the wine’s sense of quiet vitality; it just sings in the mouth with calm and a sense of reserve, never jumping around, nor sticking at any stage, nor cloying the palate. Modern McLaren Vale Shiraz can be bruising in style, but this wine’s weight and balance highlight what I love about an old school expression of the style: sheer drinkability.

These are wines that, in a sense, teach us all over again what wine is — a conduit for one of the most intense yet least scrutable forms of aesthetic delight.

Chapel Hill
Price: $A55
Closure: Stelvin
Source: Gift

One for the tannin freaks. Interestingly, I had this with a robust lamb and rosemary pie and, after initially thinking it would be a good companion because of all that fabulous structure, it ended up being the least interesting food match of the three wines I had before me at the time (one of the others being the Tyrrell’s Old Patch just reviewed).

The aroma has quite strong fermentation esters that take a while to blow off. I like fermentation esters, so this made me smile, but give it some time to discover its true character. The purple sweetness of youth never quite goes away, which is an interesting foil to the dark, dense, somewhat savoury, relatively oak-heavy profile that settles with some time and air. It’s one of those wines that seems to have oodles of power and bulk in reserve, not fully expressing itself, but looming over you, so you’re always aware it’s there. The oak character is well matched to the fruit, contributing coffee grinds and dark spice to the fruit’s ripe, rich, dark character.

The palate is only medium bodied, which again provides an interesting framework in which the dense fruit can sit. Tannins are simply gorgeous in a modern way – majorly prominent, ultra fine, blankety, sweet, delicious. They really do dominate the experience of this wine right now, which is no bad thing – it’s a fun wine to drink, and though it initially begs for food, it ends up being way richer, deeper and more of a mouthful than any “food wine” needs to be. A streak of red berry soars above it all, giving the after palate light and nuance. Ultimately, some nuance, a bit more light and shade, would complete this wine, but in its style it is a lovely drink.

Chapel Hill
Price: $A55
Closure: Stelvin
Source: Gift

I’m slowly recovering from the most unpleasant cold I’ve had in years, and tonight I thought I’d ease back into tasting with what is usually an easy wine to enjoy — Dowie Doole’s regular Shiraz. As impressive as this producer’s upper echelon of wines can often be, I enjoy the regular release for its extreme drinkability and unpretentious style.

I suspect the tricky 2009 vintage is showing through here in a slightly harder flavour profile than usual; there’s a woody, spicy, vegetal influence that competes with the wine’s lush, sweet fruit, though the latter is never overpowered by it, ensuring the style’s fundamentals still shine through in the end. The aroma starts with spice and transitions quickly to cherries and plums and rich, dark chocolate. It’s a guilty pleasure candy bar of an aroma profile, again with that slightly hard edge but also a soft, gooey core.

The palate echoes the nose quite precisely, wood and spice giving way to slightly stewed plum fruit that dominates the middle and after palates. This is a pricklier wine than usual, more angular and challenging. Still, it’s also a Dowie Doole Shiraz, so remains firmly in easy drinking territory, still showing as much freshness and drinkability as possible. The finish is a lovely surprise, long and spiced and red fruited.

Dowie Doole
Price: $A25
Closure: Stelvin
Source: Sample