Sebastien Roux Volnay 2005

Disclaimer: I’m at the tail end of the annual bout of flu that goes around the office, so take anything I write here with a grain of salt…First off: It looks like Sebastien Roux isn’t actually a Burgundy producer, but rather a négociant label used by Trader Joe’s here in the USA. [This entry was updated on Feb. 10, 2008 to correct my mistake. My apologies to M. Roux and his family – they are in fact a family-owned winery that’s been making wine since 1885. Please refer to his comment below for a complete explanation…]There’s a bit of sweet tobacco leaf on the nose here, almost exactly like Red Man chewing tobacco, and it’s pleasant enough. There’s also kind of a high-pitch neon electric cherry vibrating across the surface, and that’s not too bad, either. There’s also a sort of tomato leaf note here, a sweet greenness, that’s appealing as well; this is all balanced by a sort of low-key spice box approach, something like Dutch sausage (think cloves). In the mouth, OMG TANNIN!!!1!11! After some time in the glass, though, the tannins calm themselves down nicely, so what you get is a moderate bodied, smooth drink that ends on a slightly clumsy note of tannin and oh so French minerality. It’s all very, very French and a welcome change from the ubiquitous California pinot noir found in these parts.At this price, though… well, I suppose it’s appropriately priced. Not terrific value, but not a rip-off either. I suppose that’s the best one can expect to do in these post-Sideways times.Sebastien Roux [Domaine Roux Pére et Fils]Price: US $19.99Closure: CorkDate tasted: February 2008

Christophe Vaudoisey Volnay 1er Cru Les Caillerets 2005

Same producer as for the Bourgogne Rouge tasted earlier this week, but a decided step up in grape source. This wine is from the 1er Cru Les Caillerets vineyard in Volnay. A more youthful, purple colour than the lower wine, good clarity. The nose is really interesting. There’s definite complexity here, mixing plums, a sort of floral yet spicy candied fruit character with a hint of sous-bois and perhaps a tiny bit of brett too. It’s seamless and smooth, if a little understated. The palate’s entry shows really fine, firm acidity that underlines the wine’s flavour profile and creates good movement through to the mid-palate. The flavours here are a replay of the nose, and there’s a tightness (without any sense of brutishness) to the wine that suggests it may take some time to find its proper expression. Sweet and sour cherries, some foliage, minerality — good intensity — again seamless and elegant, a wine with self-confidence. The after palate displays a hint of oak as tannins start to dry the tongue and prepare for a finish of good length. It’s too early to fully enjoy this wine, but what’s here is promising. I will revisit it in a few years’ time. I’m about to sit down to dinner and will be interested to see how it responds to food.Christophe VaudoiseyPrice: $A58Closure: CorkDate tasted: February 2008