Author Archives: Julian Coldrey

La Ferme Julien Rosé 2006

Posted on by
Reply

Don’t laugh, but the first thought that came into my head upon smelling this wine was “Bananas Foster.” Yes, seriously! It’s also got the standard strawberry rosé smell there as well, but with an unusual creaminess and that hint of bananas, vanilla, and burnt sugar as well. There’s even a subtle whiff of attar of roses, as well as a nearly buttery note.

In the mouth, the wine shows a lovely medium weight, not overwhelmed by sweetness, finishing on a dry, tart note. The taste is surprisingly different than the smell, tending towards sweet violet coffee and freshly milled flour, again with that lovely undercurrent of roses. The finish isn’t especially long, but it offers a nice counterpoint to the rest of the wine, ending on a flat note of candied lemon peel. On the whole, though, it’s probably the best rosé you’ll find for under ten bucks.

La Ferme Julien [but really Trader Joe’s]
Price: US $7.99
Closure: Stelvin
Tasted: November 2007

Mike Press Wines Merlot 2005

Posted on by
1

It’s late on Saturday night, I’ve raided the cellar looking for something to keep me company as I settle down to relax and watch a DVD. Hmm, Merlot, that sounds good. I’ve been meaning to try the Mike Press version, relatively hyped as it has been in online discussion fora and wine press. So: how good can $A10 Merlot be?

The answer is: pretty bloody good. Lifted nose of black fruits and leafiness, along with supporting caramel/mocha oak. Not explosive, but balanced and elegant. The wine slides smoothly into the mouth, whereupon flavours of black fruit and olive build and spread over the tongue. This isn’t a fruit bomb, although the fruit is delicious and ripe. Rather, there’s a nice dialogue between fruit, savoury flavours, somewhat resiny oak and a firm acid/tannin structure, all within a medium bodied palate. The wine’s line is quite focused. Finish is puckeringly tannic, but not unapproachable, and of decent length.

In absolute terms, this is a good to excellent wine that shows varietal character and a sense of style. The oak is sticking out a bit much for me at the moment, but that’s a matter of taste as much as anything else. For the price, I just don’t see what else one could ask for. I’m off to pour myself another glass.

Mike Press Wines
Price: $A120/dozen
Closure: Stelvin
Tasted: November 2007

Mesh Riesling 2006

Posted on by
1

Second tasting for this wine. The first bottle was a bit disappointing — correct, but somehow generic and uninteresting. I’ve had positive experiences with this wine, the 2002 and 2005 vintages in particular, so I was hoping this bottle would show the wine to greater advantage.

And it did, sort of. The wine’s regionality isn’t in dispute: typically Eden aromas of slate and citrus flowers emerged enthusiastically from the glass soon after pouring. It’s a lovely, pretty nose, perfume-like in its profile and delicacy. The palate didn’t live up to the promise of the nose, at least initially. The entry is tightly focused, leading a mid-palate that at first presented intense but broad, simple fruit flavours that seemed to fight against, and almost overwhelm, the wine’s acid structure. It’s bone dry but the fruit presented as unattractively full, even overripe and slightly oxidised.

After sitting with the wine for an hour or so, though, it has warmed to almost room temperature, and a significant improvement is the result. The palate now presents more complex flavours, with prominent mineral and spice dimensions, that are a true reflection of the wine’s aromas, and that sit better alongside the wine’s quite focussed structure. Flavours persist well through the after palate and ride the bright finish for some time. The lesson being: don’t serve this one too cold.

Despite the improvement, there’s something missing with this wine. Perhaps the flavours are a bit broad for my taste, combined with a structure that is clear but somehow dull. It’s not a bad wine (far from it — were more wines of this quality) but it does lack the “x factor” that I’ve experienced with previous vintages.

Mesh
Price: $A25
Closure: Stelvin
Date tasted: November 2007

Kellerei Cantina Terlan Terlaner 2006

Posted on by
1

This wine is a blend of 60% Pinot Blanc, 15% Sauvignon Blanc and 25% Chardonnay, from the Alto Adige region of Italy. Unusual blend from an Australian perspective. Fermented in stainless steel and left on lees for six months, but with no lees stirring.

I served this a bit cold, so the nose wasn’t really able to express much when first poured. After some time in glass, the wine started to give off attractive, ripe fruit aromas and yeasty notes. The real action, though, is on the palate.

The wine’s entry is immediate and generously delivers bright flavours to the tongue, along with a nice dose of lively acidity. The middle palate sings with tasty fruit — citrus peel and pineapple and an almost overripe muskiness — underpinned and driven by really lovely acidity. Flavours drop off perhaps a little precipitously towards the after palate, but not entirely, so that a subtle echo of the wine’s flavour profile continues to ride the wine’s acid structure for a good amount of time on the finish.

I must say, I’m attracted to this wine very much. It’s not a wine of great sophistication, but it is generous and has a structure that is entirely complimentary to its flavour profile. Recommended.

Kellerei Cantina Terlan
Price: $A29
Closure: Cork
Date tasted: November 2007

MonRedon Côtes du Rhône 2003

Posted on by
Reply

Generic Côtes du Rhône reds can often make a nice change to the usual mid-week wines. Here’s one from the problematic 2003 vintage, coming in at the $A20 mark.

A transparent garnet, bright, attractive, with some signs of bricking at the rim. The nose is extroverted and fruit driven, if a bit simple. Bright, somewhat confected red fruits and floral notes are the dominant theme, with some  gamey, meaty characters adding complexity.

The entry is a little weak and it’s only on the middle palate that flavours really expand and become generous. The wine is medium to light bodied, again with bright, sweet and slightly confected fruit flavours. Mouthfeel is soft and easy, with enough structure to keep the wine from lapsing into flabbiness, but only just. Alcohol heat pokes out a bit. The after palate thins out fairly quickly, and the wine’s finish is not truncated, but neither is it remarkable.

This wine’s a bit middling in most respects, but it’s also flavourful and very easy to drink. Value for money is always a bit hard when it comes to wine, as it can be difficult to put a price on variety and difference. If you’re bored of local quaffers and would like a change, this certainly fits the bill at a reasonable price. In absolute quality terms, though, there are any number of local wines that beat the pants of this wine at the same price point.

Château Mont-Redon
Price: $A20
Closure: Cork
Date tasted: November 2007

Clonakilla Riesling 2007

Posted on by
2

The 2007 Clonakilla Riesling was made from non-Estate fruit, after Clonakilla’s own was lost to frost. Still Canberra region fruit, though.

Expressive nose that shows fruit blossom and juicier fruit aromas, framed by a powdery mineral edge. The entry is lively and delivers flavour quickly onto the middle palate, which is surprisingly dense and juicy, with more citrus, herb and mineral flavours. Acid is abundant and balanced, though is perhaps a little coarse (less so as the wine warms in the glass). A slight phenolic bitterness asserts itself as the wine progresses towards the after palate, building flavour intensity as it goes, and the wine’s finish is long. A small amount of residual sugar boosts body and helps the wine’s attractive and moderately complex flavours to assert themselves.

Part of me wished for the wine to have been made in an even less dry style, as the flavours respond well to the residual sugar that is there, and there’s certainly plenty of acidity to maintain balance. As it is, a lovely wine, enjoyable and well priced.

Clonakilla
Price: $A25
Closure: Stelvin
Date tasted: November 2007

Ngeringa J.E. Chardonnay 2006

Posted on by
Reply

Ngeringa is a new biodynamic producer located in the Adelaide Hills. This is the first of its wines I’ve tried. It won’t be the last.

Pale green/gold colour of exemplary clarity. Straight out of the bottle, the nose was moderately expressive and showed high quality fruit and equally high quality, though perhaps overabundant, oak, plus a hint of sulfur. A little while in glass allowed the wine to gain its true balance. Exceptional focus, good intensity and real complexity make this wine a pleasure to sniff over and over. Fruit flavour is squarely in the cool climate spectrum, showing typical grapefruit flavours, etc.

The entry prompts flavours to widen quickly and spread through the mouth, without losing focus or elegance. Mid-palate is marked by genuine intensity of flavour that leads seamlessly to an after palate of excellent persistence, flavours stubbornly clinging to the tongue. Finish is crisply acid-driven. Mouthfeel has a creamy dimension but not to the detriment of the wine’s structure or line. I love this wine for the character and intensity of its flavour. It is a wine of sophistication, and accompanied our chicken dinner well.

Ngeringa
Price: $A25
Closure: Stelvin
Date tasted: November 2007

Leasingham Bin 56 Cabernet Malbec 2005

Posted on by
Reply

I’ve had many enjoyable bottles of Bin 56 over the years, and I especially love how it develops with some bottle age.

Expressive, bright nose of jammy red fruit and oak. On entry, it’s apparent how intense and generous this wine’s fruit is. The mouth fills with sweet, jammy red fruit that tapers off just as assertive yet fine tannins emerge to dominate the finish. Despite the generosity of fruit flavour, the wine is of medium body and is, structurally, quite focused. At the moment, though, it’s all youthful arms and legs. With some time, I hope this wine will obtain balance between its elements and improve substantially.

Leasingham
Price: $A20
Closure: Stelvin
Date tasted: November 2007

Mount Pleasant Lovedale Semillon 1996

Posted on by
3

These were on special at cellar door a year or so back — apparently there’s an issue with sticking corks. No such problem last night; in fact, the cork came out a little too easily and was quite wet. There were signs of leakage under the capsule, so I was prepared for the worst.

I remember having a bottle of the 1995 Lovedale some years ago and finding it at an excellent stage of its development. Gloriously waxy mouthfeel, flavours of lanolin and honey, just gorgeous. What’s amazing about the 1996 is how relatively undeveloped it is, at over ten years of age.

On the nose, toasty notes betray some bottle age, along with hints of sweet honey, and that peculiar cork (as opposed to “corked”) flavour that a lot of aged Semillons have. Relatively reserved, but complex and beautiful. The wine’s entry sizzles with spritzy CO2 and leads to a focused mid-palate of delicious, complex flavours that echo the nose. More toast, caramel and delicate honeyed notes sit alongside residual signs of the wine’s youthful citrus flavours. It has the beginnings of that distinctive waxy mouthfeel that so pleased my palate with the 1995 wine. The wine’s sweet, aged flavours linger with satisfying persistence.

Acid, though, remains a defining feature of this wine’s structure and it is still a fairly dominant presence. I can only imagine what this wine was like as a youngster. I prefer to drink aged Semillons in the full flower of their maturity, and am eager to experience this wine again in a few years’ time, when the aged flavours will, I hope, display greater intensity and complexity.

McWilliams Mount Pleasant
Price: $A30
Closure: Cork
Date tasted: November 2007