Margan White Label Shiraz Mourvèdre 2009

Posted on June 18, 2011 by Julian Coldrey

The concept of a Hunter Valley Shiraz Mourvèdre is a bit tantalising; though classic partners in several regions both here and abroad, Shiraz of the Hunter persuasion, often characterised by earthiness, should be especially well-matched to the savouriness Mourvèdre can bring. Margan’s version is the only one I’m aware of, though, so clearly not a wine that sits in the mainstream.

And that’s a shame, because on the basis of this wine, the combination has more than conceptual merit. This is just all about meaty, earthy, sinewy ropes of dark flavour. The nose kicks off with an uncompromising aroma profile of Morello cherries, on which is piled a good helping of oak, sweet earth and cured meats. It’s a very compact aroma, fully expressive and quite complex, always remaining rather streamlined and to-the-point. Serious, even.

The palate is, in its own way, just as direct. Good impact on entry, a sharp hit of savoury red and black fruits registering first, followed on the middle palate by a slightly broader spread of glossy oak and textured dirt. Good intensity and, within the confines of a narrow line, impressive density. Structurally, this is still pretty raw, the acid in particular cutting a rough line through the palate; this should soften with time. I’ll also be interested to see if a hint of bitterness through the after palate also softens; the wine would improve if it did. A good lilt to the decently long finish.

Although this isn’t a wine of enormous scale, to my mind it’s a real statement of style and intent. I like it.

Margan
Price: $A35
Closure: Stelvin
Source: Sample

Mistletoe Reserve Chardonnay 2009

Posted on June 15, 2011 by Julian Coldrey

A $A40 Hunter Valley Chardonnay seeks impressive company – the Lake’s Folly and Tyrrell’s Vat 47 for starters. This, in the context of a wine region that, although it can claim an important place in the history of Australian Chardonnay, is hardly at the vanguard of fashion with the variety. I shouldn’t worry about such things, of course, as it’s all about the juice, right? Sure, but expectations have nonetheless been set.

First impressions are striking in that the nose and, in particular, palate seem very Semillon-ish. I know Semillon has been added to Hunter Chardonnay in years past and one might consider it a legitimate component of the regional style. Whether or not it’s been done here, I don’t know, but there’s a racy streak of textural acidity and the kind of strident citrus that are typical of Hunter Semillon. Once past this, the nose settles to a typically rich, peachy expression of Chardonnay, focus very much on fruit rather than the sort of oaky butterscotch that destroyed Chardonnay’s reputation back in the day. Still, this is hardly a delicate aroma profile, all ripe fruit and pungent, fresh herbs.

The palate is, if anything, even more fruit forward, flopping a big bowl of tinned peaches onto the tongue with a nice dollop of vanilla cream, all supported by a strong streak of acid. This is all rather boisterous and rather less delicate, and may be as polarising to drinkers as the ultra lean, Chablis-esque wines being produced further South. It’s not purely a stylistic question, though; while this is full of flavour, it does lack the sort of cohesion and controlled expression that the aforementioned regional icons usually display. It bounces between its buxom components with a wildness that isn’t entirely convincing.

A very big mouthful of Hunter Chardonnay.

Mistletoe
Price: $A40
Closure: Stelvin
Source: Sample

Mud House The Woolshed Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2010

Posted on June 14, 2011 by Julian Coldrey

A single vineyard wine and, at $A29, occupying the upper end of the price range for this style. As single vineyard and smaller production Marlborough Sauvignon Blancs become more visible, it interests me to see what makers consider to be worth highlighting in terms of varietal character. Here, Mud House has gone for a fairly extreme end of the style, full of spiky passionfruit, nettles and aggression.

It’s not all harshness, though; far from it. The fruit character here is actually quite complex (once you get past the overt aromatics), with some nectarine flesh and citrus in amongst the more tropical notes. The edginess, too, is detailed and relatively complex, though one might argue these qualities don’t make up for what is a slightly unbalanced overall profile. There’s no mistaking this for any other style.

In the mouth, one’s first impression is of chalky, textured acid, rather breathtaking really, followed by a cascade of bright fruit notes and an edge of leaf. Interestingly, it’s not thin-tasting; there’s a bit of flesh to the flavours, round enough to combat the wine’s structural tendencies. Typically, it dies a bit on the after palate and finish. For my taste, this is de trop, pushing the harsher side of the style too far to the fore. Having said that, those looking for a vibrant, somewhat explosive wine will find it here in spades.

Mud House
Price: $A29
Closure: Cork
Source: Sample

Yelland & Papps Devote Greenock Shiraz 2009

Posted on June 12, 2011 by Julian Coldrey

This has been open a good couple of days and is just starting to sing. There was something fuzzy about it on opening, the clarity of its fruit obscured by structural static. Much better now, though.

On the nose, a spiced, clove-laced aroma of crushed blood plums and cedar, pine needles and marzipan. Opulent is going too far; mellifluous a better description for what is an easy, conversational aroma profile. I like the oak character in particular; it’s a mixture of nougat and nuts with hints of dark spice. Despite being more accessible after a couple of days, this remains a rustic nose, roughed up with dark notes and graced with a character of fruit that’s more tart-baked than freshly picked.

The palate is generous and solidly structured, with a level of density that remains high right down the line. That said, it’s not the most highly defined wine, flavours blurring into one another with pleasant casualness. So the overall impression is one of large scale ease, which is tremendously appealing if you set aside the sort of hard-edged detail that some wines pursue in the name of quality. No, this is old school Barossa, full of plum and fruit cake spice, well-balanced acid and soft tannins. The fruit may lack an ounce of freshness, but it’s barely a mark on the drinkability here.

A very good wine in its style.

Yelland & Papps
Price: $A32
Closure: Stelvin
Source: Sample

Thomas Sweetwater Shiraz 2009

Posted on June 7, 2011 by Julian Coldrey

One of the more unusual wine marketing campaigns of late is surely New Generation Hunter Valley. If its central image reminds one why mixing metaphors is generally a bad idea, I wholeheartedly agree with the sentiment behind the campaign. The Hunter Valley, though often a favourite of wine writers (myself included), seems to suffer an image problem, especially outside of its core Sydney market. So any attempt at reinvigoration is welcome, because I suspect history will show we are in a very exciting period for the region, several producers doing great work with its classic Shiraz and Semillon styles, driven by a desire to see more deeply into vineyard and site. Of course, being such a fan of the region, I completely missed the recent New Generation tasting here in Brisbane, much to my disappointment. Thankfully, I have been able to obtain some samples that, I hope, will provide a good snapshot of the more interesting current releases.

First up, the Thomas Wines Sweetwater Shiraz.Thomas Wines is a producer whose wines I have enjoyed on many occasions, though I’ve never before tasted this label. Diving right in, the nose is strongly influenced by fresh red dirt and textured oak, notes that combine to create an impression of sharp savouriness. This isn’t a nose that seduces through plushness or promises of rich fruit flavour. Rather, it’s a wiry, angular aroma profile, suggestive of a hard-earned, lean muscularity. Fruit notes, such as they are present, are firmly in the red spectrum.

The palate is a burst of savoury freshness, acid playing the dominant structural role. On entry, a real tingle of fresh red berries, sliding sharply to a middle palate that introduces the nose’s dominant notes – earth and oak. Though oak is quite prominent, its character is terribly well judged, seeming both old and slick at the same time. Though the wine is light to medium bodied, intensity is very impressive, helped along in terms of impact by all that acid. The finish settles to a surprisingly soft, almost plush, flavour, expressed within a still-nervy framework of textural acid and loose-knit, coarse tannin. This might be really challenging to someone with a taste for Barossa Shiraz, but that’s precisely what I love about it.

This is all Hunter, a no compromise style that confidently expresses the region’s charms. Take it (preferably with a bit of bottle age) or leave it.

Thomas Wines
Price: $A35
Closure: Stelvin
Source: Sample

Chapel Hill The Chosen Home Block Shiraz 2009

Posted on June 4, 2011 by Julian Coldrey

Three 2009 Shirazes in one sitting – this, the same producer’s Road Block and the Tyrrell’s Old Block. Each wine completely different from the next, though with both Chapel Hill wines showing a distinct regional relationship, as one would hope.

Increasingly, I’m enjoying what I see as the nascent influence of Burgundy on Australian Shiraz, not of technique, but of philosophy. There are such marked differences between regional Shiraz styles, and indeed within regions and sub-regions, yet to my mind this remains territory that is barely mapped, and wines like this are a step along the path towards a deeper, finer, Burgundian understanding of how Australia does Shiraz. None of which would matter if the wines weren’t much good, so I’m pleased to note this is an excellent McLaren Vale Shiraz, in my opinion superior to the Road Block, though very different from it too. The vines here are a lot older, and without wanting to dive into that conversation, I will innocently note that this wine seems more resolved and complex, less brutal in flavour profile than the Road Block.

The nose is quite settled and full of adult savouriness; dusted cocoa powder, cherries, raspberries, complexity, medicine, comfort, dusty beauty. Who doesn’t love a farmer? This smells so genuine it completely bypasses a conversation about what it is and just exists in its vibrant, deeply understood way.

The palate is of medium weight and seamless complexity. There are coffee grounds and red fruits, expressed with significant intensity of flavour. What’s really nice here is the wine’s sense of quiet vitality; it just sings in the mouth with calm and a sense of reserve, never jumping around, nor sticking at any stage, nor cloying the palate. Modern McLaren Vale Shiraz can be bruising in style, but this wine’s weight and balance highlight what I love about an old school expression of the style: sheer drinkability.

These are wines that, in a sense, teach us all over again what wine is — a conduit for one of the most intense yet least scrutable forms of aesthetic delight.

Chapel Hill
Price: $A55
Closure: Stelvin
Source: Gift

Chapel Hill The Chosen Road Block Shiraz 2009

Posted on June 2, 2011 by Julian Coldrey

One for the tannin freaks. Interestingly, I had this with a robust lamb and rosemary pie and, after initially thinking it would be a good companion because of all that fabulous structure, it ended up being the least interesting food match of the three wines I had before me at the time (one of the others being the Tyrrell’s Old Patch just reviewed).

The aroma has quite strong fermentation esters that take a while to blow off. I like fermentation esters, so this made me smile, but give it some time to discover its true character. The purple sweetness of youth never quite goes away, which is an interesting foil to the dark, dense, somewhat savoury, relatively oak-heavy profile that settles with some time and air. It’s one of those wines that seems to have oodles of power and bulk in reserve, not fully expressing itself, but looming over you, so you’re always aware it’s there. The oak character is well matched to the fruit, contributing coffee grinds and dark spice to the fruit’s ripe, rich, dark character.

The palate is only medium bodied, which again provides an interesting framework in which the dense fruit can sit. Tannins are simply gorgeous in a modern way – majorly prominent, ultra fine, blankety, sweet, delicious. They really do dominate the experience of this wine right now, which is no bad thing – it’s a fun wine to drink, and though it initially begs for food, it ends up being way richer, deeper and more of a mouthful than any “food wine” needs to be. A streak of red berry soars above it all, giving the after palate light and nuance. Ultimately, some nuance, a bit more light and shade, would complete this wine, but in its style it is a lovely drink.

Chapel Hill
Price: $A55
Closure: Stelvin
Source: Gift

Curly Flat Chardonnay 2008

Posted on May 31, 2011 by Julian Coldrey

The temptation here is to begin a long, intricate, stupefying rant about Chardonnay styles and how, arguably, some Chardonnays are more equal than others. In the interests of retaining at least some of my readership, though, I will simply comment that this wine gives ample ammunition to those Chardonnay enthusiasts who feel a worked, White Burgundy style may just be le dernier mot.

The nose is a little friend made of fruit, wrapped in a prickly, woolen jumper. Firm white peach and peach skin, mostly, with the faintest hint of rich, fine pineapple syrup. It’s all very expressive and striking, even before you really give it the time it deserves. Especially distinctive is a thread of light, powdery charcoal. There’s plenty going on, but it’s also poised, such that one has the impression of a calm, ripple-free surface under which currents flow and mix with slippery ease.

There’s a mix of plump stonefruit, caramel and rich pastry on the palate whose closest relation seems to be a particularly fine tarte tatin. Lest this suggest a cloying richness that isn’t there, I should add that a run of ultra-fine acid, gathering steam through the middle and after palates, ensures this is altogether fresher and livelier than a baked dessert. There are many other flavours — herbs, citrus peel, aniseed, flink, oak, orange juice — such that there’s plenty to see, taste and touch. Excellent continuity of line and briskness over the tongue. This will age a treat, I reckon, hopefully becoming a bit more relaxed and comfortable with its fundamentally warm, soft flavour profile.

Utterly delicious Chardonnay.

Curly Flat
Price: $A42
Closure: Stelvin
Source: Gift

Tyrrell's Old Patch Shiraz 2009

Posted on May 30, 2011 by Julian Coldrey

I got my Tyrrell’s mailer the other day advertising the 2010 Private Bin reds. It reminded me that I hadn’t yet tasted the 09 Old Patch, so I made a point of pulling it out at the first opportunity. The 2007 Old Patch was a dense, somewhat forbidding wine on release, so I was pleased to see this present much more expressively, even after being open for only a short while. Two days on, it has flowered more completely, allowing this wine’s essential contradiction — a muscular flavour profile combined with a delicacy of structure and weight — to become clear.

The nose is perhaps best described as cubist, presenting both sharp graphite and iron filings with pungent florals and crisp cranberry fruit, clearly dimensioned and drawn with considerable detail. The oak is subtle and feels old, more nougat and peanuts than spice and coffee. Some regional dirt rounds out the aroma profile.

The palate is only medium bodied with a firm structure based on a line of driving, orange juice acid. There’s no much point dissecting flavour components as such; the wine tastes whole, seamless and well-textured, with impeccable balance. What it’s not is sensational, and it would be easy to underestimate what this brings in terms of quality and longevity. But in its own way, this is as impressive, if not more so, than the 2007, trading outright power for a rare elegance and clarity.

How it will age is both a little curious and tremendously exciting; I’d love to see this in twenty years’ time. Perhaps I’ll make it my mission to do so.

Tyrrell’s
Price: $A45
Closure: Stelvin
Source: Retail

Yelland & Papps Devote Old Vine Grenache 2009

Posted on May 26, 2011 by Julian Coldrey

This is the third vintage of this wine I’ve tasted, and I do believe it’s getting better with each iteration. Looking back over my notes, the 2008 was a significant advance over the 2007. The current vintage is again a really good expression of Barossa Grenache, notable for the way it balances typically sweet fruit with a range of sappy, savoury notes.

The nose is clean and highly expressive, showing sharp snapped succulent and fresh red fruit, coffee, brown spice and charry oak. The fruit and oak influences are very well balanced, fruit presenting first then relaxing into complex, subtle, pleasingly rustic barrel-derived notes. It’s both warm and fresh at the same time, sort of like wearing the warmest, wooliest jumper you own on a crisp, early Spring day.

The palate is true to the nose in both flavour profile and balance, starting early and sustaining fruit presence along most of its line. There’s a core of clean, medicinal fruit around which a range of other flavours gather, some fruit and some from oak. Reasonable intensity (Yelland & Papps wines never seem to want to be powerhouses, even the upper labels), medium weight, nice drive. A bit of heat, but I expect that from this style of wine. The only disappointment here is a simplistic texture that is just a bit too pumped up and slippery for its own good. I’d like to see more tannin texture and dimensionality. It’s a small niggle, though.

Very nice, strongly regional Grenache.